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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Been working on the bike with a friend today, a recap of today with some questions:

- the orange/green + white/black cable I found above is the indicator relay "G" as indicated on your wiring diagram.
- determined that the switch itself works.


- if I disconnect the taillight (picture below) and connect one of the wires from the pressure switch to ground on the engine and the other wire on the switch to the ground connector on the tail light (circumventing the wiring loom) then I pull a wire from + on the battery directly to the white/black wire on the tail light and press the rear brake lever the light goes ON!

Sorry for the long sentence, cliff notes: circumventing the loom with the tail ligt and front brake light disconnected = rear brake light works.

If I plug the tail light to its connector, and wire the rear switch the same way nothing happens.

there must be a way to wire this so both front and rear brake light works.

And my question is the following;
the original spring switch that came with the bike must have been connected somewhere in the proximity of the seat rear part of the tank, but I see no trace of where it is connected. If someone has a bike with the original switch would it be possible to take a picture of where it is connected?

Image
 
Just for reference, here is how the brake light circuit works.

Thanks to CrashB's excellent wiring diagrams, you can reference all of my comments in living color! (You do great work Crash! :thumbup)

The Orange/Green wire is the power feed. It should be at 12V whenever the key is ON. It is fed via the Signal Fuse, #4.

The brake light switch (either front or rear) simply connects the Orange/Grn wire to the White/Black wire. Now that the White/Blk wire is powered, the current travels to the bulb and illuminates the filament. The current continues to chassis ground through the Black/White wire and back to the battery to complete the circuit.

If there is no voltage on the Orange/Green wire in the loom (relative to chassis ground) with the key in the ON position, that's a problem. Trace back through the loom (with the aid of the diagram) and measure for voltage at accessible points to find where the circuit is open.

Fix the open, then test for voltage on the Orange/Grn wire again. :)
 
Its worth noting at this point that your loom is most likely 15 years old by now, and there might be breaks within the wires themselves that are causing this issue. My method of finding which wires have breaks in them is to bridge all the suspects one at a time with a length of wire with the stripped ends hardened with solder and just insert it into the back if the appropriate connectors.

I have genuinely lost count of the number of looms that I have found normal looking wires with breaks inside. Took me 2 years to find the one that stopped my indicator light on the dash working properly! :banghead
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Just a quick update, full report with pictures of the bike will come Tuesday evening.

IT WORKS!!! :clap

In the end I just had to follow the loom forward, then I found the connector for the switch, extended the wires on the hydraulic switch with about 40cm and connected it.

Since I had unwrapped a lot of the electrical tape on the loom already I at least got to inspect it, no breaks or issues, re-taped it and put the bike back together.

With a bit of patience I probably could have saved myself some work, but I have the "MOT" inspection on Tuesday morning, so I was stressing to get it ready.
Since the wire on the aftermarket switch was so short I couldn't imagine that the connector was so far away..

A big thank you to CrashB and the rest of the forum, couldn't have done it without you guys!
 
I am constantly amazed, in a bad way, at how shit most of the wiring is! Just take a look at the photo just posted by JK81, the wires look like ginger pubic hair and are probably about as strong and conductive! Everytime I look under the tank of my TL I'm amazed it runs at all with the collection of wires the width of a human hair and crappy block connectors dotted around. Anyway, rant over. I will build a new loom sometime.....
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I think there is an old Chinese proverb that says "there is no such thing as a free motorcycle"...

Now the electrical parts are sorted, the engine purrs like a kitten, runs like a charm but she started to leak like a sieve .... :banghead

From what I have read its not uncommon, the clutch cover seems like the culprit, but it seems like I have a leak coming from behind the drain plug also, check video.

http://www.tlzone.net/forums/help-forum/66310-why-97-s-clutch-covers-leak-how-fix-them.html

Even if mine is a 98 model maybe its the issue in the thread above?

 
I think there is an old Chinese proverb that says "there is no such thing as a free motorcycle"...

Now the electrical parts are sorted, the engine purrs like a kitten, runs like a charm but she started to leak like a sieve .... :banghead

From what I have read its not uncommon, the clutch cover seems like the culprit, but it seems like I have a leak coming from behind the drain plug also, check video.

http://www.tlzone.net/forums/help-forum/66310-why-97-s-clutch-covers-leak-how-fix-them.html

Even if mine is a 98 model maybe its the issue in the thread above?

Its the breather...

Get the newer style breather catch can, run that tube to it. Stop running it like that...
 
Interesting, a weight has been lifted from my shoulders!

More info please! Which catch can are you referring to, which model year?

Should I do something else, does this mean the airbox is full of oil?
There is an oil breather catch can between the cylinder heads, something tells me you don't have it and your front cylinder blowby tube is going nowhere. That blowby tube should be connected to the oil catch that should be bolted through one hole to the thermostat. Then the vent to that should be connected to the lower airbox. The return should be fed to the reed valve that returns oil to the crank.
 
There is an oil breather catch can between the cylinder heads, something tells me you don't have it and your front cylinder blowby tube is going nowhere. ....
Did you intend to say REAR cylinder vent tube?

I can't remember one being on the front cylinder. :confused


..... she started to leak like a sieve .... :banghead
From what I have read its not uncommon, the clutch cover seems like the culprit, but it seems like I have a leak coming from behind the drain plug also, check video.
...
Even if mine is a 98 model ...
...
From what I can see in the video, it is difficult to say where the oil is coming from. It may be merely collecting in the area of the drain plug as a convenient point to drip from. You will need to remove some fairing panels (and maybe the front sprocket cover) to get a better view of where the actual source is.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Took a break from the TL.... Cleaned the engine properly today and fired her up.

Took a while before it started to leak, but eventually it did, 99,9% sure it is coming from the bottom 4 bolts that hold the right side engine cover, the leak seems to come from bolts located at "4 and 8 o'clock", removed the cover over the front sprocket, no leaks on that side, nothing that seems to come from higher up either, there is no catch can between the cylinders (is that just a USA model option?)

Could this be the issue: http://www.tlzone.net/forums/help-forum/66310-why-97-s-clutch-covers-leak-how-fix-them.html

Gonna change the blue bolts on the engine anyways, could it just be a bad gasket?
 
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