Hi MatTLs97,

For about €100,- you can mount this one:

I'v bought it on AliExpress.

The handle bars are positioned more horizontally, and therefore about 4 cm higher. The riding position is a bit more relaxed but remains sporty. I'm very satisfied with it.

PS: The TL is far more reliable the the Tuono. So keep the TL!😉

 

Ruiterrrr = That might well be the answer... Think I'll give that a go first before taking the fairing off and converting the top yoke. Thank you for supplying photos and specs.
PS yeah maybe I'm stuck in the early 2000's but I'm still not convinced with Italian electrics. + I feel that most of the Tuono's look like they're made up of spare parts .

 

No one has ever tried to put handlebars on a TLS.


Another option you could consider is taking foam out of the seat. You will sacrifice leg room obvs. But you could easily take out 4 to 5cm of foam.

 

I think it would be fun if it was like a more modern sit up street orientated bike like my GSXS 1000. Comfortable but rip roaringly fun.

 

That's pretty much my idea mate 🤘😝🤘

 

I did convert the standard clip on handle bars to a handlebar on the stock top yoke with riser brackets, I had to remove the fairing support frame and all the steering damper brackets etc, cut the top half of the fairing a little and the screen, extend the clutch and choke and front brake cables too.
once complete it was a completely different bike to ride, it felt much more stable due to the width of the handle bars, the riding position I felt was very comfortable and also gave me a better view of the road ahead over the cars etc.

 

I've been thinking of taking the full front fairing off and replacing it with spot lights for that old school streetfighter look, but also want to keep the original clocks/dash . Has anyone out there achieved this

Yep.

Handlebar Mount

YZR Headlight Mount

Dual Headlamps w/Pro Bars

 

My objective for these mods was to get 1000 km of range per day, three to four days in
a row. Couldn't do that with the standard posture, and the lights and mirrors did not
work for me for long distances at night.

Also added two auxiliary gas tanks:

... and a rack for carrying a Giant Loop carryall bag.

Worked. 2,700 miles {Sebastopol, CA to Milwaukee, WI on two lane roads, exclusively} in 3 days 13 hours.

--f

 

Thanks for that, that's pretty much what I had in mind minus the screen ( I don't really do long distance that much ).
very helpful, thank you

 

... franklynb= Did you have to extend any of the electrical wiring ? and do you remember how long your replacement throttle cable + brake lines were ?

 

I've been running Heli bars since 1998 on my 'S'. 85k miles later, I think I'll keep them.

 

This was my TL after the risers were fitted, couple of lessons learnt, the screen and fairing didn't need to be cut that much, also I think the risers were a little high and the bars just added to it.

 

This was my TL after the risers were fitted, couple of lessons learnt, the screen and fairing didn't need to be cut that much, also I think the risers were a little high and the bars just added to it.

View attachment 67635

View attachment 67636

Looks good... did you find it affected the handling much ? I'm guessing not quite as focused but more leverage ? ... thanks for sharing

 

I found that it handled better, rode nicer, was a lot more comfortable.

 

... franklynb= Did you have to extend any of the electrical wiring ?

I kept the keyswitch in the same place, and moved the dash a minimal amount forward .. which allowed
me to use the existing wiring "as is".

and do you remember how long your replacement throttle cable + brake lines were ?

I was able to make the throttle cable work. However, the brake lines had to be custom length; and getting
the master cylinder "high enough" to avoid starvation on full lock turns of the handlebars proved
to be challenging. Hence, the jury rigged "raise it again }-;" bracket mounting the master cylinder tank.

The throttle cable needed very careful routing to keep it freely operating, especially during parking
exercises -- from memory. I think it was slightly prone to sticking when full lock turning while
backing up. But normal throttle action. I may have trimmed the ProTaper bars a bit -- can't
remember, now. Didn't need them any wider than what was required for mounting the hand
controls, as they were plenty wide enough to get rid of the tendency to oscillate during
pavement undulations.

Agreeing with Neil's experience: much better mechanical leverage, and the more upright posture makes
the steering less "twitchy" from loading the bars with upper body action.

It does move the bars to a point that encounters the tank higher on the tank shoulder, which can
create a tight spot for hands/thumbs in a crash.

The "depressed section" of the tank, below the obvious dent, is there to create some clearance for the clip-ons. Something to consider.

I can measure the brake lines, if you get that far.

 

I kept the keyswitch in the same place, and moved the dash a minimal amount forward .. which allowed
me to use the existing wiring "as is".



I was able to make the throttle cable work. However, the brake lines had to be custom length; and getting
the master cylinder "high enough" to avoid starvation on full lock turns of the handlebars proved
to be challenging. Hence, the jury rigged "raise it again }-;" bracket mounting the master cylinder tank.

The throttle cable needed very careful routing to keep it freely operating, especially during parking
exercises -- from memory. I think it was slightly prone to sticking when full lock turning while
backing up. But normal throttle action. I may have trimmed the ProTaper bars a bit -- can't
remember, now. Didn't need them any wider than what was required for mounting the hand
controls, as they were plenty wide enough to get rid of the tendency to oscillate during
pavement undulations.

Agreeing with Neil's experience: much better mechanical leverage, and the more upright posture makes
the steering less "twitchy" from loading the bars with upper body action.

It does move the bars to a point that encounters the tank higher on the tank shoulder, which can
create a tight spot for hands/thumbs in a crash.
View attachment 67685

The "depressed section" of the tank, below the obvious dent, is there to create some clearance for the clip-ons. Something to consider.

I can measure the brake lines, if you get that far.

I kept the keyswitch in the same place, and moved the dash a minimal amount forward .. which allowed
me to use the existing wiring "as is".



I was able to make the throttle cable work. However, the brake lines had to be custom length; and getting
the master cylinder "high enough" to avoid starvation on full lock turns of the handlebars proved
to be challenging. Hence, the jury rigged "raise it again }-;" bracket mounting the master cylinder tank.

The throttle cable needed very careful routing to keep it freely operating, especially during parking
exercises -- from memory. I think it was slightly prone to sticking when full lock turning while
backing up. But normal throttle action. I may have trimmed the ProTaper bars a bit -- can't
remember, now. Didn't need them any wider than what was required for mounting the hand
controls, as they were plenty wide enough to get rid of the tendency to oscillate during
pavement undulations.

Agreeing with Neil's experience: much better mechanical leverage, and the more upright posture makes
the steering less "twitchy" from loading the bars with upper body action.

It does move the bars to a point that encounters the tank higher on the tank shoulder, which can
create a tight spot for hands/thumbs in a crash.
View attachment 67685

The "depressed section" of the tank, below the obvious dent, is there to create some clearance for the clip-ons. Something to consider.

I can measure the brake lines, if you get that far.

Thanks very much for all that info, very helpful