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Discussion Starter #1
260lb rider. Race Tech 1.0kg/mm springs. Stock Valving. What type and weight of fork oil????? Also what type of fork oil works best with the stock steering damper??? As always all advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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At least it's not the '97 valving. But with stock valving I'd go as light as I could. Search for the oil viscosity comparison chart, you can't rely on the listed weight ratings on the bottle. I like Race Tech US1 Light.
 

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I'm with cyclecamper. I run diferents brands and viscosities. And The final conclusion is as best the brand is and as light..better. My choice is Ohlins nº5 (wich is not SAE 5) excellence quality and not too expensive...
 

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5wt cartridge fork oil is what the manual calls for and what I would use. Others here have had good results with thicker stuff. IIRC Doug uses 7.5wt. Ideally, you'd have the forks re-valved for your weight and riding style and a specific oil. Most places that don't sell their own oil spec bell ray HIV 5wt after they do a re-valve (at least the places I've used).

For the stock damper, the lightest oil you can find is best - this will usually be 2.5wt.

have fun
 

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At least it's not the '97 valving. But with stock valving I'd go as light as I could. Search for the oil viscosity comparison chart, you can't rely on the listed weight ratings on the bottle. I like Race Tech US1 Light.
Hi - is the '97 valving different? I'm planning on fitting new springs & valves for my '97 after reading Doug's guide.
 

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I would use 7 to 10 wt. But a revalve would be better :coocoo
 

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Hi - is the '97 valving different? I'm planning on fitting new springs & valves for my '97 after reading Doug's guide.
According to Suzuki advertising at the time they revised the valving for '98. The '97 fork valves look just like the much-despised HMAS I think they were called, with a web in the valve body passae with just little holes to restrict the maximum speed of fork movement to control body pitch & dive under braking and acceleration. A terrible idea, they go into hydraulic lock easily and transmit the jolts they should absorb. On a '97 put in stiffer springs and Gold Valves and US1 light and you'll be VERY VERY pleased. Better for touring, cruising, track, street, no more of those major shocks up the arms, all good with no down side. Best money I ever spent (well, lighter wheels were nice too). If you still have the rotary out back, a stiffer spring there helps a lot too.
 

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Thanks Cyclecamper. Yeah - Ohlins to go on the back I guess. I have front and rear Ohlins on my BMW R1100S and it makes a huge difference. Much plusher ride than the TLS and holds a decent line.

I'm making the airbox mod, TRE then dyno time to tune the PCII. Every time I look on the Zone I find more things to do. (I was eying up some 'busa forks & light wheels earlier on). What is it about the TL??:)
 

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BEst bang for your suspension buck up front is GP Suspension revalve and springs :coocoo
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I really dont have time to take the forks apart and redo the valving myself. And I cant afford to pay someone else to do it. My TL is mostly street and just a few track days per year. When I get outta college Im planning on building a racebike then. So I doubt Ill ever do the valves on the TL.
 
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