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Took my plastics off to trace down an oil leak and noticed that I have NO coolant in the bottle. What kind should I pour in? I searched on here AND online, and I do not have an owners manual
 

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You should also check the coolant level in the rad itself - if the bottle is empty the rad may be low too.

Put in whatever type of coolant is currently in it. Pretty much anything is fine as all current cage coolants are safe for aluminum etc. The standard green stuff is what they came with from the factory IIRC and works just fine. Engine Ice is good stuff but a bit pricy. I was never a fan of the red extended life stuff personally.
 

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There are some good motorcycle specific coolants out there that are pre mixed and ready to use.
I've used Coolanol the last couple times, I know there are others out there just can't think of them
 

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chopiesel said:
coolant shmoolant.

just use water.
He lives in Milwaukee - water is out of the question. It just snowed a little bit North of him a few days ago. BikePilot's gotta good idea. I use Engine Ice but at the Cali Speedway today where it got to 70 degrees my GSXR1000 never got over 170 degrees as I ran it mostly when it was in the low 60's out.
 

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Some have said it's best to use bike coolants that dont' have abrasive silicates and your shafts & seals last longer, but I don't really know whether the ordinary automotive coolants do or not. Anyway, the Honda motorcycle coolant has come highly recommended from other lists I've been on for all brands of bikes. But I can't claim expertise.
 

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:stupid I've read the same thing.
 

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My bike has run well on reg car AF & oil for 50k . Cars have shafts & seals don't they.
 

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beet said:
My bike has run well on reg car AF & oil for 50k . Cars have shafts & seals don't they.
So do buses & tractors but I don't use products designed for them! Although I do fancy a knicker knob I saw on a bus' steering wheel when I was a kid.

:laugh

JK beet. I've used Engine Ice for many years & it is good stuff. We run plenty of track days a year (heading out to the Cali Speedway for another one in about 20 minutes in fact) & we do not "hate" gycol based antifreeze. Then again at the events we run it's not a demolition derby & we have less than 10% of our crashes leave fluids on the track. However when people run fully synthetic motor oil & don't torque down their drain plugs & drop 4 qts of that stuff over 1.5 miles that's a different matter. That & riders who insist on running non vented Vortex gas caps but then don't screw them down before the ride out for a session & let them fly out on the track while they cover themselves with gasoline. Get that one every weekend now. :coocoo
 

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I would also use truck & bus stuff :laugh :O
Mr. DOBALINA said:
So do buses & tractors but I don't use products designed for them! Although I do fancy a knicker knob I saw on a bus' steering wheel when I was a kid.

:laugh

JK beet. I've used Engine Ice for many years & it is good stuff. We run plenty of track days a year (heading out to the Cali Speedway for another one in about 20 minutes in fact) & we do not "hate" gycol based antifreeze. Then again at the events we run it's not a demolition derby & we have less than 10% of our crashes leave fluids on the track. However when people run fully synthetic motor oil & don't torque down their drain plugs & drop 4 qts of that stuff over 1.5 miles that's a different matter. That & riders who insist on running non vented Vortex gas caps but then don't screw them down before the ride out for a session & let them fly out on the track while they cover themselves with gasoline. Get that one every weekend now. :coocoo
 

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Hmmm, might I suggest a full flush on the coolant system? If you haven't done it in a while and your down low this might be a good idea before you just top stuff off.

I drain mine twice a year, but that's because I use water and water wetter in the summer to help keep temps down in the Texas heat and then I drain and use water and antifreeze in the "winter" for our one week that it'll get below freezing.

That's a bit often but necessary to run the fluids I choose to run. But you still should drain and replace every so often and I'd bet yours is due.
 

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The coolant has to do more with the water pump and the interaction between the silicates and the Al. In the Hondas, silicates in the cooling system will erode the water pump impeller very quickly. A friend of mine with a VFR had his pump go within 5K miles of using the wrong collant. Impeller was destroyed, so as a rule of thumb I use motorcycle or silicate free collant only. I've seen this many times on the VFR board. I don't know if it would be a problem for other manufacturers. But for me better safe than sorry.

Vince
98VFR800Fi
97TL1000s
 
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