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I was looking but dident find any so I´m wondering if there is any kind of writup´s with pics or not on how to adjust the valves changing shims and so or even how to chang the valves :O
 

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I think the service manual is your best bet. I did mine last month and looked and didn't find anything.

it is so very, very easy.....

all you need to know is when they say 8 lbs for the cam retaining bolts, they MEAN it...not 10, not 9...but 8! :laugh

fortunately they are designed well and I didn't break it off in the head...



whatdya want to know while it's still fresh in my head? I was going for optimal, not just spec, so I picked up a shim kit, much easier than constantly heading to the dealer.
 

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btw, I had a shop adjust mine at 20ish thousand miles, 3 were out of spec.


at 45k miles, all were still in spec, though 3 on the front cylinder were far enough on one end I could shim them better and still be in spec. pretty common that once the first one is done, they stay put and don't need changing.


get good feeler guages, good torque wrench, and a magnate on a stick...easy peasy japaneasy
 

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Mine are up for adjustment and was thinking of doing this myself during the mod season. Thanks for the reassurance.

I think the service manual is your best bet. I did mine last month and looked and didn't find anything.

it is so very, very easy.....

all you need to know is when they say 8 lbs for the cam retaining bolts, they MEAN it...not 10, not 9...but 8! :laugh

fortunately they are designed well and I didn't break it off in the head...



whatdya want to know while it's still fresh in my head? I was going for optimal, not just spec, so I picked up a shim kit, much easier than constantly heading to the dealer.
 

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whatdya want to know while it's still fresh in my head? I was going for optimal, not just spec, so I picked up a shim kit, much easier than constantly heading to the dealer.
So I just mark everything up and remove the cams and get to it then :) (if they are out of specs)
 

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So I just mark everything up and remove the cams and get to it then :) (if they are out of specs)
don't really even have to mark em, they have marks already...you'll see, when either is at tdc you'll see the marks. having a manual is really handy too. I pulled the rear intake off before remembering to advance to tdc for that one, lobe was facing down so valves were pushing up on it. was a bit worried for a second, then just looked at the manual and dropped it back in.

..and yes, I have since fired it up so I'm not just passing along bogus info :)



...and remember, the larger the gap between the lobe and shim the better...as long as it's in spec.

the magnate on a stick is a must imop as you have to take the cap off the shim first, with a magnate, both come right out together.


oh, having a micrometer is a must as well if you go changing any out.
 

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..and I recommend, of course, taking your time. Do one cylinder at a time, measure twice, cut once and all that good stuff.....
 

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thanks alot man :thumbup
 

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Just remember that the decompression dowel will be depressing the exhaust shim buckets when the lobe is pointing away from the valve. You will need to flick out the bob weight arm to release the decompresser.

If you don't you will wonder why the hell you have a hugh clearance on two of the four exhaust valves :banghead

Also it may be worth buying one of the shim selection box's found on ebay if you plan on doing them more than once.
 

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Going to do my Valves this winter for the 3rd time... tired of back an forth to the dealer... Where is the best price for that darn shim kit... Suzki oem i think was like 345.00 when i priced it... i just about fell outta my chair.. or did i look up the wrong item.. it seemed high priced but gave it no further thought at the time. help. :)
 

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I bought mine off ebay for about 70 dollars. Only 2 size shim kits, we take the 9.48 (or close) kit, not the 7 mm shims.

same kit from a normal online retailer is 10-20 dollars more, so not horrible.

this is the kit I bought.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yama...tegoryZ43977QQihZ001QQitemZ110062760858QQrdZ1

yes, you end up with many shims you'll never use, but like you, I didn't want to be in the middle of the job and need to go back to a dealer (15 miles away) for one damn shim...it's worth not having that headache. Friend just bought an 07 yz450f, another is looking at a crf so there are hopefully other bikes I'll be using these on to get more of my money's worth.
 

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it's funny, i bought the same exact kit.

i have enough projects that it was worth the cost and not have to travel to the dealership to play musical chairs all day on a merry go round trip back n' forth.

i spec my adj. as such:

0.15 (0.1-0.2mm) IN
0.27 (0.2-0.3mm) EX
 

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wet and dry paper'd mine on glass with no probs. saves time and money, Took out and examined after 6 thousand miles with nothing to report.
 

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Just remember that the decompression dowel will be depressing the exhaust shim buckets when the lobe is pointing away from the valve. You will need to flick out the bob weight arm to release the decompresser.

What are you talking about here Sam? Got more details or some pics? I'm confused...I just got the camcovers off and measured the gaps but I didn't notice any big gap on the exhaust valves. I haven't taken the cams out yet, though.

thanks for your help
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Hello Ferdinand

On each exhaust cam there is a decompressor assembly which is basically a banana shaped weight with a pivot at one end. At low rpm (ie starting) the weight holds a dowel over the shim bucket so the valve never closes long enough to build up compression and hence makes it easier for the starter motor to turn the engine past compression.

Once the engine starts (with low compression) the centrifugal force swings the banana weight outwards which in turn rotates the dowel so the flat side of it is over the shim bucket and therefore doesn't contact it and hence your up to full compression.

When checking exhaust valve clearances sometimes depending on the position of the cam the dowel is pressing on the shim bucket and this can give clearance readings up to 50 thou.

A simple check is to see if you can swing the banana weight outwards with your finger, if not then the decompressor is activated.

You can either use a small terminal screwdriver to press the banana outwards to release the decompressor or rotate the engine slightly so the dowel is not pressing on the shim bucket.

You can see the banana shaped weight in the left of this picture



and on the right here is a stock dowel (the left one is a modified one for reground cams)

 

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:hail

Thanks Sam,

that made it clear as day!

You are the man.
 

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All part of the TLZone Service :laugh
 

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Sam - I did my valve check this weekend; thank you very much for the explanation of the decompression dowels. :thumbup

OK, so I did my valves today. All intake valves are on the tight side (but w/in spec) and exhaust well out of spec (tight). #'s below are in mm.

Front Cyl (L/R)
Int: .11 / .11
Exh: .16 / .17

Rear Cyl (L/R)
Int: .11 / .10
Exh: .18 / .15

Question: Is it normal to see things this tight (esp. exh)? Seems ~.05mm tight on every valve (which is good in one sense, since shims come in .05mm increments).

I've never done a valve clearance before, but am pretty competent at most things. All I did to check was rotate the crank CCW until F|T (or R|T for cyl #2) was viewable as well as make sure I was in the compression stroke (lobes pointing as indicated in the manual). Engine was definitely cold. Plugs out. New feeler gauges-Sears Craftsman special.

I also noticed some signs that this motor has been pulled before. Previous owner did not indicate any work which would've required dropping the motor. The electrical plugs have white (wax?) maker lettering on them (A-Z). The camshaft journals have #'s written on the top of them (#9 on front cyl, # 7 on rear cyl). Bike has 20k mi on it. I would think that the valves would've been done when the motor was dropped (and still be in spec, since I doubt the work would have been done at <10k mi). :O

[edit] Now that I think about it, I'm guess that this isn't really that bad...just a bit out of spec. I'm just gonna double check on another set of feeler gauges. If anyone has thoughts tho, feel free to reply. Thanks!!

[edit #2] And thinking some more...I can obviously use the EXH shims on the INT side, eh? That would put the INT a bit looser but still w/in spec. OK, I'm done now. :)
 

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I noticed 2 of the cam bracket bolts on the exhaust side was damaged. Found it kinda odd, so I yanked the exhaust side off the other engine and found another one..hmm odd only on the rear exhaust. Something to look for when doing the valve adjustments. I cant say one way or another if the last person to do the adjustment used a torque wrench. I was using one and tightening and felt one of the bolts give and immediatly backed it out.

So next service inspect the bolts. Both were damaged in the center, and looked as if they might have had stress at one time and stretched. I will post a photo of what im refering too this week.
 
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