[colt1013]

I've been reading some of the vacuum related issues and for the most part they all share the same symptom of rough idle. My issue is the opposite. I have a '99 TLR that idles perfect but when rpm's increase the engine seems for a second to want to die. When the prob. starts I can get to around 6 grand then it's like I cut the key off for a split second then back on. It does this like clock work, every two seconds. The longer I keep messin' with it, it gets worse and in a lower rpm. eventually I can't even get off idle but still idles fine. When I turn the bike off for a few minutes then restart it, it does the same cycle and occasionally runs like a champ for 5 or ten minutes. The only thing I've done is remove the flappres in the airbox lid. Do I need to remove ALL vacuum lines with this mod. I just plugged the port on the solenoid that the line to the flapper came from. Never rode a bull before but with this going on, man, feel like I'm gonna get bucked off.

 

[cyclecamper]

Plugging that should be good enough to work. But sounds almost like it isn't plugged, and leaks when the vacuum solenoid activates.

 

[pad]

When did the problem start ?? , after you worked on the bike or did it just happen.
It sounds more like an electrical fault.
Douse it happen more when it is hot or cold.
Do rough roads affect it.
Are both cylinders dying or just one

The problem could be anything from a faulty side stand switch to a dying fuel pump.
The more info you can give the faster someone will find the fault.

 

[AirNavy]

:stupid It almost sounds like a clogged fuel filter.

 

[vtwinjunkie]

if it happened after you modded your airbox then you know that is where the problem lies.....

 

[colt1013]

Well I did have the tank off to fix the gasket leak. This all happens with the side stand up or down. The odd thing is that it seems so rythmic. Every couple of seconds like clock work. It happens cold and hot but probably more hot. When I shut the bike off for a few, it seems to do better, then ugh. Definitely both cyls. die. Just as if the key was being turned off then back on. I'm sure it's something simple because the only change I made was the airbox. Everything else was cleaned and/or checked. Would a clogged fuel filter be so rythmic? AHHHH....headache. I do seem to remeber this happeneing once up in the mountains but lasted for only a few miles. That was last summer well before I tore the thing apart ???

 

[mzivtins]

sounds to me like a wiring problem. just yank at the wires coming out of your key-switch and see what happens.

 

[Octofinger]

Put it in dealer mode and see if you get any codes...

 

[colt1013]

First. Thanks for getting back with me guys. Got it fixed. I had a short in one of the connectors down in front of the bars. When I first got the bike the headlight would flicker. I just hapened to see it sparking one night and fixed it. That was in the square yellow conector. This time it was in the square black one with the two "jumper" wires. I looked at the wiring diagram and found that this black connector also holds wires to the headlight which was again flickering and the wires to the shut off switch which was causing the bike to cut off and back on. WHEW !!!! Again, thanks for the feedback.

 

[cyclecamper]

Yes, I think that connector is for the foreign (non-USA) modles which have a light switch (on the right handlebar).

 

[Kingfraser]

What is the "jumper wires" ? What exactly did you do?
I am having that exact same problem even after i changed my fuel pump fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator, tps is good as well so i am sure this wire connector is my problem

 

[Kingfraser]

Are those connectors related to the horn as well? Cuz the horn works now and then as well.

 

[Six5]

What is the "jumper wires" ? What exactly did you do?
....

The "jumper wires" referred to in post #9 are the two circled in the screen clip below. In the US-spec TLR, the black gang connector from the right-hand switch pod contains two wires that come out of one terminal and go directly back into another terminal on the same connector. They are there to bypass a lighting feature used in the Euro-spec TLRs.

Apparently, the OP had a problem with these wires being intermittent. it is understandable that a poor connection in that circuit would cause concern. They both impact the lighting circuits. The horn is also powered through the Orange/red jumper.

The other conductors in that same connector are also critical to the starting and ignition circuits.

Be sure to download the color TLR wiring diagram from Color Wiring Diagrams