TLZone Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
Had a ride out today, stopped for refreshments as we do, when I started the bike it ran for 2 seconds or so and cut out and didnt want to restart. I checked fuses, clutch switch and stuff but they seemed ok. I left the bike.for 30 mins and it fired up so I quickly put on my lid and gloves but after getting 100m down the road it cut again and tested my reaction on the clutch when the back wheel locked up.
Any ideas im thinking regulator or CDI but dont want to buy replacements if the problem is elswhere ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,766 Posts
Sounds like a bad or loose connection. Next time it dies reach down behind the left headlight, grab the cluster of wiring, and gently move it about. Easiest / fastest test you can do.

NOTE: Problem is less likely to be related to heat (cool down period) as it is to the vibration of the engine. Sometimes simply wiggling the handle bars during start up is enough to realign the connection enough to start, but then the vibration of the engine severs that connection again. Problem is definitely in the wiring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,072 Posts
Hi all,
Had a ride out today, stopped for refreshments as we do, when I started the bike it ran for 2 seconds or so and cut out and didnt want to restart. .....
When it "cut out," did only the engine stop, or did all of the electrics fail too? Lights went out too?

When it "didn't want to restart," does that mean it would not crank over, and there was no action from the starter relay / stater motor?

Or, would it crank over OK, but the engine would not start?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies guys. The engine cranked over fine I was suprised how healthy the battery was. I did remove the left ram air cover and check the wires but only the first time it cut out. The weird thing is i drove 40 miles home without problems after the second fault :O
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,766 Posts
...The weird thing is i drove 40 miles home without problems after the second fault
Awwwe... brings back so many fond TLR memories. Don't worry mate, it will happen again. And again... And again... Hahaha....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Lol Josh, hopefully all sorted, found a ropey connection under the seat mumified with tape when I moved the harness a cable fell out. Now made good with solder and insulated. 20190513_181749.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,766 Posts
Yup, Fuel Pump wire. That will do it.


NOTE: Fortunately I saw the image before the site flipped it upside down :devious
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Weird how the fuel pump made it cut out so fast. When I had fuel problems with other bikes it coughed and splutterd before hand
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,766 Posts
Weird how the fuel pump made it cut out so fast. When I had fuel problems with other bikes it coughed and splutterd before hand
I'm sure Tony can explain that one if it's ECU related. My guess is your filter & Injectors are so badly clogged that without pressure from the pump the fuel stops dead in its tracks. Then again, it may just not be noticeable unless you're at WOT. Also depends on what you mean by "fuel problems". Who knows...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,072 Posts
Weird how the fuel pump made it cut out so fast. When I had fuel problems with other bikes it coughed and splutterd before hand
Mike, good find on that loose connection. :thumbup It pays to poke around in the wiring harness, especially on these older bikes. :devious
As for the coughing and sputtering, fuel injected systems are not like the old carburetor systems. When the pump pressure stops, for whatever reason, be it an electrical disconnect or a dislodged fuel hose, fuel delivery stops instantly, and the engine stops running. At least, that has been my experience with EFI systems. Without some pressure behind it, next to nothing gets past the injectors - even with clean injectors and a good fuel filter.

While you are in there, it would be good to verify the connection on the main loom ground where It bolts to the engine case just above the front sprocket. Also inspect and clean up any corroded connections in the gang connectors that Josh referred to earlier. Look for overheated terminals too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,831 Posts
how long have you had the bike?

I know when I sold my red TLS with standard pipes and cans I had to re-program (Yoshbox) an ECU to work with standard stuff. That buyer then sold it to another with aftermarket Arrow bolt on cans and he brought it into me as it was running like a dog.
I had to re-do the ECU programme for it to run properly with the aftermarket cans as it was conking out and backfiring..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the feedback guys. I checked all connections last night and moved the harness around in various locations while the bike was running, all seems well at the moment.
I bought the bike in September as a trade sale requiring a tidy up now complete. Fork seals, new back wheel, tyres, wheels powder coated, head bearings and a full respray with decals.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top