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Discussion Starter #1
I just took the timing retard eliminator off my TLR ...it appears to have made a significant difference, for the better.
I can now ride it like a normal bike with a throttle instead of a twist operated on off switch.
It wouldn't idle before and would randomly cut out at lights. Plus the delivery is much less revvy and jerky than before. Could it be that the suzuki engineers who designed, built, tested, developed and released it knew better than the bloke who owned it shortly afterwards who bolted on/plugged in/removed several things?
 

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Yup. That's why he put a rotary damper on it:laugh.

To be honest I have not run my bike without a TRE in 6+ years. Though with a custom PC map, I've had no issues with the way it runs.

I did have some mapping issues recently with some temporary pipes, while my others were welded - but that's another story.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ha ha! The damper is a fair comment. Although I have never ridden any bike to the point where the suspension overheated...
 

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It really sounds like you might have had a primitive TRE instead of a "smart" tre. The "smart" tre maintains the signal to the ECU which tells it to use a different no-load idle map when in neutral or when the clutch is squeezed. The 'dumb' TRE just tells the ECU that it's always in 5th, so the plugs foul at idle in neutral or clutch disengaged with no load.

Yes, less power in lower gears will make it more street-drivable for the novice. The SV1000 has even smoother throttle transition because the second computer-controlled butterfly prevents the human from doing stupid things. It's also quite possible your bike is tuned (Yosh-box parameters, etc.) so that it prefers the timing retarded a bit.

You could also restrict the intake, exhaust, and put in the restricted cams from the French model. I hear the restricted TLs are smoother, much less jerky (about 20 hp less).

You might try a new 'smart' tre and see if it's better than the old one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That makes sense, the tre I had on it must have been a basic one or had issues. It's not the fastest or most powerful bike I have ever had but it certainly was the grumpiest. It doesn't feel any slower at all, just a bit more progressive in the lower gears, as opposed to lurching about the place like an untrained rottweiler
I will probably run it for a bit with no tre to get everything spot on, then think about mods later, a smart tre like you mentioned sounds sweet.
Perhaps I just prefer smooth sailing in my old age.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I do find that fuel injection is sensitive to the slightest thing. My Daytona 955i was a missile on the right day but would falter and splutter at low speeds. Used to drive me crazy.

I had a BMW R1200s which seemed to run differently on a daily basis.

Ah well.
 

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my 97 s as a tre pc3 gp pipes 5th thottle fitted 43 rear sprocket . i just love it . try putting some injector cleaner in it . it helped mine when i was getting a stumble on tick over . or just leather the bitch :roost
 

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The TRE or not-tre makes no difference at full throttle as far as I know, I think it affects mostly how much ignition advance at small and medium throttle. On of the later-model power commanders might really help. But yeah, start with some injector cleaner!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the advice chaps, injector cleaner sounds like a safe bet. It's starting to get enjoyable again. I will upload a pic of the tre in a day or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No power commander, although it's had some mods along the way, just plug in stuff. Can new maps be uploaded by a dealer without a pc?
 

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Only a fairly basic re-flash via a yoshi box - it changes low mid and high throttle openings. The PC does it in 250rpm increments.
 

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My PCommander3 does 500rpm increments.
The PC2 does 1,000rpm increments.
 

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Righto - the point I was making was it is more precise than the Y-Box, but I stand corrected. I shoudld've put IIRC in front of 250...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Aha,

Well this is biking on a budget for me right now. It's probably a re flash and finally sort that bastard Tps out. It seems to be fairly groovy now apart from the occasional flutter on tickover. And my headlamp pointing at the front wheel. Oh yeah, and the gold fairing fasteners....oof.

What does a pc cost nowadays?
 

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See if you can find a Zone member nearby with a Y-Box for a TLR. Chuck used offer to flash the R ECU if you posted it to him. But he is in the states, and seems to hang out on TLPlanet now. PCIII will cost you hundreds S/H, and hundreds more new (I don't know exactly how much:dowhat).

Over here the bikeshop wanted $80 for a flash - 5 mins work:jack

Maybe the shops over there are more reasonable...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nice one, thanks.

There is a place near me I think, in Aylesbury, fingers crossed it'll make it a bit happier low down.

I have never been one to fiddle about with something but I have this urge to undo the nonsense that's been inflicted on it. PC is probably off the menu as they are so pricey.

Re flash and a Tps should bring me up to speed, so to speak.
 

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Take it to see Dave Wood in Aylesbury. Broadfields Industrial Estate. He's a dab hand with a yosh box and you can get the thing dyno'd. He'll do the TPS and all the other ancillaries at the same time.
 

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You could also restrict the intake, exhaust, and put in the restricted cams from the French model. I hear the restricted TLs are smoother, much less jerky (about 20 hp less).

You might try a new 'smart' tre and see if it's better than the old one.
I have the French model. Cams are the same as UK ones. No work been done on the engine either
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Dave wood was the geezer I was thinking of too.

My Tps is impossible to set, it makes me homicidal with irrational rage.
 
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