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Discussion Starter #1
I have had issues with my old girl. She is a 97 tl1000s. She started bucking and turned off and showed neutral light. We tried everything. Then with a lot of help we found out that the Tre was having issues. There is a small diode on the right hand side of the bike near the gas tank where your knee is. It is tapped into the main wire loom. One leg is failing on the diode in this. The diode looks like a fuse when untapped but instead of two legs like a fuse it has 3. I will show more on this shortly and how to find out what's wrong and were to get a replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hello warlock,
If you are referring to the dual diode that is wrapped into the wire loom near the right-hand side of the airbox (described on page 7-16 in the TLS manual), I don't think it is available separately from Suzuki. It is a 3-pin package that contains two diodes with a common cathode. I haven't found a vendor yet that makes the same package form (but I'm sure there is one out there somewhere). Until then, I have included a link below to a diode that will do the job, but it is a different shape. The center pin is the common cathode. You may need to solder tabs to the pins to fit the socket, or solder the diode directly to the loom wires. Obviously, if you do solder them, you will need to insulate the wires from each other.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-SCHOTTKY-RECTIFIER-DUAL-COMMON-CATHODE-DIODE-90V-20A-MTO-3P-S20SC9M/390680777077?hash=item5af6639175:g:az0AAOxyoahSXtlc

Are there any numbers on the diode from your TL? Something you could google to see what turns up?


warlock said:
Hey buddy. I am from the us on the east coast. I was woundering.. I have a 97 tl s. I need to replace the diode. And I had a few people help me find out that was the issue. So my question sir if you don't mind. What is the part number for said diode. Or any information on this would be a great help. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's true, electronics can be a little mysterious until you get the basics figured out. I enjoy helping out where I can. Since you say you had the help of others to confirm the diode is bad, then this is not exactly a "shot in the dark." You say the diode in your link is the same form factor as the OEM unit? If so, nice find! I haven't had mine unwrapped to look at for a long time, so I wasn't sure which package was used.

While the diode in your ebay link would work, it is overkill, and grossly over priced! I'm a little confused by that ebay add when he says "4X Schottky Rectifier, 100 V, 40 A, Dual Common Cathode, TO-247..." Is he offering four parts for $31.51? Plus, other sources list the same part as a 20 amp device, not 40 amp. At any rate, it will do the job.

Still, there are less expensive options to be had. For example:

This one from Digi-Key.
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=Schottky Rectifier STPS40H100CW

This one from eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STMicroelectronics-Power-Schottky-Rectifier-STPS40H100CW/131064152515?epid=1504669592&hash=item1e840841c3:g:dvQAAOxy4t1Sn~l3

Let us know your progress. If this fixes your problem, you should post it in a thread so others will find it in a search. That diode is an obscure part that gets overlooked as a potential cause of the "bucking" problem you describe.
 

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Glad to see you've posted this in the main forum. Much easier to get the information you need this way. As mentioned in our PMs, Six5 will get you sorted out on electrical.


That being said, from our discussions it sounds like you've got some homemade (DIY)TRE spliced into your wiring harness. You mentioned that a friend "turned it around" and it started working, which could be miscommunication, but doesn't sound like it was properly soldered. Best thing to do is post a picture of the section of wiring you're referring to, so that the electrical system pros in here can visually see what's going on. If you have issues getting the image on here you can just text it to me at 210-913-7842 and I'll post it for you.


---- All Six5 from this point on ----
 

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Six,

Is one leg part of the side stand switch?

Remove it and tie the ground together?

If that's the case, I have one... :tillis

Warlock,

Where in the US are you? Maybe someone can lend you a diode?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm in Maryland. Six5 helped more order a few of what we think the diode should be. I have my fingers crossed that will work but if you have a extra or if anyone else does that would be great. Right now she is in the dealer ship for the gas tank recall so I can get a new tank,pump,and gasket.
 

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...Right now she is in the dealer ship for the gas tank recall so I can get a new tank,pump,and gasket.
No shit, Suzuki is still honoring recalls on TLs? That's bad ass.
 

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Six,

Is one leg part of the side stand switch?

Remove it and tie the ground together?

If that's the case, I have one... :tillis

....
Rxf, The diode warlock is dealing with is tied to the sidestand switch, but it is not the diode IN the sidestand switch.

See the diode pair highlighted with the red dot in this image. Those two diodes are actually one component that plugs into a socket that is taped into the wire loom on a TLS. It jus forward of the GPS connector (on mine it is). It is there to keep the GPS and the sidestand switch electrically isolated, so they don't 'cross talk' and turn on the neutral light when it shouldn't be on, or play games with the sidestand relay.

TLR 4-26 by Tony Six5, on Flickr

It is actually a dual diode with a common cathode - a three-pin device. Warlock found this device on ebay (or one like it), and it should do the job. It may not be exactly plug-n-play, but it will work, and is probably overkill concerning the electrical specs. I'm sure other vendors besides Digi-Key carry the same device or something similar.

STPS40H100CW made by STMicroelectronics.

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=Schottky Rectifier STPS40H100CW



It caused some unexpected symptoms. Fortunately, they don't fail often. Warlock and his buddy did a good job of troubleshooting the failure. :thumbup


On a TLR, this diode pair is enclosed inside the Turn signal flasher/Sidestand Relay module.
 

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I second that they did a great job in troubleshooting it. Only way I would have known that was the problem is if Tony told me it was :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah they helped me with it. The issues I was having was a little different then normal. The neutral light was on in all gears and it would buck to and back fire. To the point it would die. We all drew a blank after checking a lot of things including the in side the clutch house with the shift solenoid. We tested the side stand relay and switch and wiring.We ohmed it out. I even bought a new brain. He(Tony) and another gentlemen asked me just for [GFP] try the diode. My buddy checked and one leg had failed. He flipped it over and disabled the side stand kill. Wire and switch. We started it up and everything was good. I ordered some but they were wrong. I touched base with Tony again and he sent me the link because Suzuki does not have the diode list as a part not a part number for it.
 

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So Six,

What about just deleting the diode entirely? My side stand is defeated at the green plug... I could defeat it "higher" up the loom...

Leaving the only path to the neutral light directly from the gps? No need for a diode?

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you have did the tre by pass then you can. Because the diode works a few things at the same time. Tre... side stand.. clutch alignment to plate. And air voltage I think was the last one.
 

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If you have did the tre by pass then you can. Because the diode works a few things at the same time. Tre... side stand.. clutch alignment to plate. And air voltage I think was the last one.
Warlock,

A TRE is a Timing Retard Elimination device. It fools the ECU into thinking it's not in the first few gears (So as to not retard ignition timing).

The diode has nothing to do with clutch plate alignment and nothing to do with "air voltage".

The clutch plates are "hard wired" (If you will) to the clutch basket.

The "air voltage" you refer to might either be the intake air pressure or the ambient air pressure (which are in fact both relayed to the ECU as voltages).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That is the weird part. It was causing the same issue as if it was with the Tre. Like I said. It was different and I am not the first owner of this bike. It has a lot of upgrades and the wiring was well.... to be nice.. chopped up like spaghetti. It was very weird.
 

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That is the weird part. It was causing the same issue as if it was with the Tre. Like I said. It was different and I am not the first owner of this bike. It has a lot of upgrades and the wiring was well.... to be nice.. chopped up like spaghetti. It was very weird.
Well you should completely remove the TRE until things are running well...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
My buddy and I had to rewire the whole bike. It was a nightmare. Very tight spaces. It has Penske suspension that I had work around because of the way the routed the nitrogen/oil canister.
 
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