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Discussion Starter #1
Need to adjust my Tps. How much will it set me back?
It's time, the fast idle won't even go up to 2000rpm anymore it barely gets up to 1500rpm, and I'm thinking about getting by valves done.
 

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Checking and Setting the TPS on the Suzuki TL1000
The following is for reference only.

CHECKING

Warm the bike up to operating temperature.

Locate the Dealer Mode block under the rear seat/hump (left side on the TLR, right side on the TLS). It is the one with only 2 wires.

With the ignition off, remove the rubber cover and jumper the two connectors with a paperclip or other suitable object. Do not let the paperclip contact the frame.

Start the bike and make sure it is idling at 1200 RPM.

The LCD display on the tachometer the indicator bar should be in the middle and C00.

Advance the throttle to 1400 RPM with the Fast Idle Lever.

After a few seconds at 1400 RPM, the indicator in the LCD should advance to the upper mark.

If it advances at 1400 RPM, your TPS is set correct.


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SETTING THE TPS
raise the tank. Remove the rubber grommet and sleeve on the tank as it might fall into the throttle bodies when they are exposed with the bike running.

You must now remove the air cleaner box.
- Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the intake valve control actuators, remove the screws and the air box cover
- Remove the air filter
- Bend each lock portion of both air funnel retainers and remove the air funnels by extracting the three bolts.
- Disconnect the vacuum hoses (4) from the VCSV (Vacuum Control Solenoid Valve).
- Disconnect the VCSV coupler (5)
- Disconnect the vacuum hose from the IAP (Intake Air Pressure) sensor (6)
- Disconnect the IAP sensor coupler (7)



- Disconnect both crankcase breather hoses from the bottom sides of the air cleaner box
- Disconnect the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor.



- Disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum damper located on the front of the air cleaner box.
- Remove the air cleaner box. Be careful not to lose the two rubber O-rings on the top of the throttle bodies. They sometimes stick to the bottom of the air cleaner box.

Remove the IAT from the air cleaner box and reconnect it and lay it on the frame without the sensor touching metal. Use one of the vacuum hose clamps for the hoses to hold it in place. Do not lose the washer!

Remove the IAP sensor and reconnect it. Caution, when the screw is removed from the IAP sensor, the nut will fall out of the air cleaner box.

Plug the intake valve control actuators hoses and the vacuum damper hose (golf tees work great for this).

The TPS should now be exposed between the two throttle bodies



You will need a #25 Safety Torx Bit to adjust the TPS.

Loosen the screws to the TPS and start the bike. Check the idle is at 1200 RPM and the bike is at normal operating temperature. Tap the TPS up and to the right until the indicator goes to the top mark. Now tap the TPS in the opposite direction until it just barely drops to the center mark (remember the delay, give it a few seconds after each tap). Tighten the Torx screws. Check the TPS by advancing it to 1400 RPM again and make sure the indicator moves up.

If the TPS checks out, reinstall the air cleaner box in reverse order.

You really dont need to take off the whole air box but it makes it easier to get to tht tps with it off.
You can just unscrew the two plugs on the shifter side of the air box and you should be able to get to it if you have small enough hands..
its very sensitive so very slight movements will make a big change..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If I had the equipment, I could do it. Unfortunately I don't so I'd have to probably take it to Cycle Depot, just was trying to figure out how much it would run me to get it done.
 

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ziggy said:
Need to adjust my Tps. How much will it set me back?
It's time, the fast idle won't even go up to 2000rpm anymore it barely gets up to 1500rpm, and I'm thinking about getting by valves done.
It will set you back half an hour. :)

If I can do it anyone can.

Download the vid watch, print of the post before this one and away you go:devious

Check out the manual for the fast idle adjustment :slaptlr
 

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all you need is a hex wrench to lift the tank, a screw driver to take of the air box or the plugs for the IAP sensor, and a torx bit #25 which you can get at home depot for 2 bucks.
o yeah and a paperclip to jumper the plug in the trunk to get it into dealer mode.
 

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Yep I don't take my airbox off either:devious

As long as you can get the torx screws to loosen you are away
 

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You've a TLs right?

If so, dont do anything except lift the tank. the TPs is exposed on the left side.

The torx screws need to have the centre anti-tamper knocked out (gently with a little punch/blunt end)

Then a 25 trox driver will undo them. I replaced with a allen screw.

remember TIny adjustments. wait, adjust
 

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As long as you have the correct torx driver, then there is no need to tap the middle with a punch, as that is why you get the correct torx driver:cheers :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Where can I pick up a IAP sensor?
 

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It's already on your bike. PM me and we can set up a time you can head up here and I can do the TPS and your valves.
 

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FYI your TPS will not solve your lack of fast idle you mentioned in your first post. you either need to adjust the cable under the left handle bar or you have to make a more drastic adjustment on the right side of the throttle body (sitting on the bike) there are 2 jam nuts on the cable. loosen the one on the outside of the bracket(10mm) then turn the nut on the cable (8mm) so you get more threads near the cable not the inside of the bracket. this wiull tighten your fast idle to help your situation. it will make better sense when you take your airbox off.
PS
all you need to do the tps adjustment is a paperclip and safety torx driver.
 

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djkoenig said:
PCII can be left on. However, a TRE should be removed or switched off.
I'd disconnect the PCII too, because it can play with the TPS value. What's shown on the display isn't necessarily where the TPS is if the PCII is fudging the figure.
 

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steve not to disagree but i thought when you got a pcII you had to readjust with it plugged in so you could correct for the pcII being connected. I remember before i put my PCII on my TPS was set and when I put the PCII on i had to readjust for it. I say leave them both on if you want it adjusted for the PCII your running. I just did mine this spring and I left everything on and set it according to factory specs. Bike runs great with no sputtering of bogging down when i go WOT.
 

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You set your TPS correctly no PCII.

Then you put a PCII on that plays with the TP and it shows up in the display that it's not correct, so you readjust the TPS with the PCII so it shows it's correct again.

So it's still my thinking that the only accurate TPS setting shown in the display is one at 1200rpm - middle bar - no static TRE or a PCII.

I see it like this, TPS is set correctly no PCII. You conncet the PCII which alters the TPS signal, now the display shows it's out, so you readjust - now you have just nullified the change the PCII was trying to make. :dunno

But I guess if the is no alteration to the TP in the map for 500 - 2000rpm or so and it reads differently then it might have to be adjusted with the PCII connected. What's the PCII doing altering the TP signal when it's set to 0 though? :confused
 
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