Youll never be able to find one that suits all... Ive got 3, 2-24Nm, 19-120Nm and 40-210Nm.. I think those cover it all...
torque wrench that suits tl1000
Hi lookin for a torque wrench that will be in the right range for the tl1000s
thanks in advance keith
thanks in advance keith
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
:stupid. except I work in the old system.
I have a medium one that does from 10 lb/ft to over 100, and another that does a good range in lb/in.
Otherwise hold the head of your socket ratchet in the palm of your hand, rather than by the handle, when doing pinch-bolts, sump plugs etc, and without a torque wrench won't break anything.
Lack of torque wrench leads more to stripped threads, than bolts undoing IMHO. To allay concern, a dab of the wifes nail polish on the bolthead, and corresponding fixed point will soon show if anything loosens, when you do your daily pre-ride inspection:dowhat.
I hardly use mine, and I personally think that a lot of the torque settings in the manual are a tad high. Probably to avoid lawsuits:O
Having said that, it's a personal opinion - you do what you think is safest...and for climbing inside the engine and doing magical things, they are probably essential.
I have a medium one that does from 10 lb/ft to over 100, and another that does a good range in lb/in.
Otherwise hold the head of your socket ratchet in the palm of your hand, rather than by the handle, when doing pinch-bolts, sump plugs etc, and without a torque wrench won't break anything.
Lack of torque wrench leads more to stripped threads, than bolts undoing IMHO. To allay concern, a dab of the wifes nail polish on the bolthead, and corresponding fixed point will soon show if anything loosens, when you do your daily pre-ride inspection:dowhat.
I hardly use mine, and I personally think that a lot of the torque settings in the manual are a tad high. Probably to avoid lawsuits:O
Having said that, it's a personal opinion - you do what you think is safest...and for climbing inside the engine and doing magical things, they are probably essential.
The wife's nail polish....? :devious
I'm close enough by hand, we even checked at work with a calibrated wrench.
An uncalibrated wrench can be a long ways out, when you use them alot you'll know when you set one and it clicks too soon or doesn't at all with the torque you automatically apply sub-consciously.
Sometimes its just a matter of tightening until it strips and backing off half a turn... if ya know what I mean. Knowing when you're reaching the tensile limit of the fixing.
I try to avoid anything brass, not an easy task for a sparky.
An uncalibrated wrench can be a long ways out, when you use them alot you'll know when you set one and it clicks too soon or doesn't at all with the torque you automatically apply sub-consciously.
Sometimes its just a matter of tightening until it strips and backing off half a turn... if ya know what I mean. Knowing when you're reaching the tensile limit of the fixing.
I try to avoid anything brass, not an easy task for a sparky.
You also should consider what size you need.1/4" is good for small bolts and bolts that are not easy accessible like engine bolts etc.1/2" is good for larger bolts wheels,axle etc
And that can be a PITA... I didnt realize it when i bought my 19-110 wrench, but that one is 3/8.. So now ive got 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2.. So a good adapter-kit can also be a good thing to consider...You also should consider what size you need.1/4" is good for small bolts and bolts that are not easy accessible like engine bolts etc.1/2" is good for larger bolts wheels,axle etc
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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