its impossible
one bolt is directly in line with the rear chassis cross.
one bolt is directly in line with the rear chassis cross.
TLS rear cylinder exhaust stub
How hard or easy is it to remove the rear cylinder exhaust stub on a TLS without dropping any of the engine or removing engine bolts? I've got the exhaust off and the wheel off. On the TLR it was awkward but possible with some flexible joints and socket extensions.
I want to swap out the rear cylinder exhaust stub in the morning. Both the stock front TLS exhaust pipe and the stock rear exhaust stub have extremely intrusive welds to attach the pipe to the sealing ring that presses against the circular gasket. So I always grind out those welds. It sure looks to me like it's one free horsepower.
I've got an extra rear cylinder stub pipe all prepped. Am I going to go nuts trying to install it?
I want to swap out the rear cylinder exhaust stub in the morning. Both the stock front TLS exhaust pipe and the stock rear exhaust stub have extremely intrusive welds to attach the pipe to the sealing ring that presses against the circular gasket. So I always grind out those welds. It sure looks to me like it's one free horsepower.
I've got an extra rear cylinder stub pipe all prepped. Am I going to go nuts trying to install it?
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Nothing is impossible but for all intent the doing of this might as well be...i know this from to much time spent trying.its impossible
one bolt is directly in line with the rear chassis cross.
So what are my options? All the engine bolts? I've never dropped a TLS engine, only TLR engines and they mount differently. Is the chassis rear cross member hollow? If it's solid, and it already has a hole in it for the exhaust pipe, can I cut out the pipe, safely expand the hole into an oval to access the bolts, and solve the problem forever? I just want to scrap the existing pipe stub to install one that has most of the interior weld ground out. Dammit I wanted this thing done, not taken more apart. But I already went to the trouble of grinding out the weld on a spare stub pipe.
and the bolt is too long, so even if you get to loose and turn it, it will bump on the chassis
i dunno if you can loose only the engine and nugde it forward, i suppose you dont need much more room before it lets go, but havent tried...i want mine off also, with a minimum of labor needed, so gonna follow this, see if anyone comes up with a decent solution
i dunno if you can loose only the engine and nugde it forward, i suppose you dont need much more room before it lets go, but havent tried...i want mine off also, with a minimum of labor needed, so gonna follow this, see if anyone comes up with a decent solution
I'd love to mill out clearance and convert to a stud with nut so I didn't need clearance for the length of the bolt threaded in to come out. I was able to bolt it on & off on the TLR.
the stud nut conversion I do has to have a short nut to clear the frame on the rear.
I can't see you getting it sorted without dropping the motor.
on a lighter note the exhaust port has a much smaller cross section than the stub so its doubtfull you'll get any more actual benefit than knowing its done properly!
I can't see you getting it sorted without dropping the motor.
on a lighter note the exhaust port has a much smaller cross section than the stub so its doubtfull you'll get any more actual benefit than knowing its done properly!
You're right about that fit guys, thanks for saving me the time Ring-in, as the bike is very nearly back on the road. Next time I have a TLS engine out I'll grind a little extra clearance in the frame with an abrasive disc in a die grinder, and convert to short studs and a jam nut or two. That way I COULD get it off with an offset claw wrench on an extension from a socket set. But he way it comes from the factory indeed the only way would be to cut it all out with that abrasive disc die grinder, cutting out the pipe and the bolt heads, which would take several hours, then hope I could get the cut bolts out with an offset stud wrench. It's possible, but I'm happy to hear you say it ain't worth it; at this point that's what I want to believe! That's what I need: a convenient truth!
The retainer ring with the two bolt holes needs to be thick (maybe even thicker) where it goes around the exhaust pipe, but perhaps could also be ground a bit thinner at the bolt holes. That would allow the use of even shorter studs by recessing the nuts .
It might even be possible to devise a slotted or two-piece retainer.
Or a thick strong retainer that's stepped where it pushes on the exhaust pipe, so the whole retainer is recessed closer to the engine, even if I ground down the head by the bolt holes.
Best might be a retainer with a long sleeve over the pipe to push; it would work with really long bolts on the wheel side of the frame cross-member. A stack of short sleeves might be easy to get onto the stub pipe past the bend. Then the eared retainer would go on last, secured with long bolts that just barely clear the cross member. Could also be implemented with a long sleeved retainer and long studs. Or could weld another ring onto the stub pipe for the stock retainer to push against, and use long bolts.
There are plenty of alternatives for this less-than-ideal design, but all are difficult to install with the engine in-place.
The retainer ring with the two bolt holes needs to be thick (maybe even thicker) where it goes around the exhaust pipe, but perhaps could also be ground a bit thinner at the bolt holes. That would allow the use of even shorter studs by recessing the nuts .
It might even be possible to devise a slotted or two-piece retainer.
Or a thick strong retainer that's stepped where it pushes on the exhaust pipe, so the whole retainer is recessed closer to the engine, even if I ground down the head by the bolt holes.
Best might be a retainer with a long sleeve over the pipe to push; it would work with really long bolts on the wheel side of the frame cross-member. A stack of short sleeves might be easy to get onto the stub pipe past the bend. Then the eared retainer would go on last, secured with long bolts that just barely clear the cross member. Could also be implemented with a long sleeved retainer and long studs. Or could weld another ring onto the stub pipe for the stock retainer to push against, and use long bolts.
There are plenty of alternatives for this less-than-ideal design, but all are difficult to install with the engine in-place.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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