TLZone Forums banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got myself my second TLS, an 03 with a R engine after missing my 97 for the last 10yrs. Gotta say I still miss my un-neutered 97 but maybe the tre mod will make it better.

Anyways I noticed my suspension was really sloppy so I tried adjusting the damper to no effect. Then I figured since I'm 250 and the last guy was only 150 maybe the preload needed adjusting. So I went to take off the spring only to find the bottom bolt was completely seized and only cutting it would get it out.

While I was in there I realized both the bolts holding the damper were snapped which is why adjusting it did no good.

So since the bolts snapped on the last guy too I figured it'd be better to replace it. Since the bolt on the shock was seized I figured the bitubo was out. I wish I could have got an online like my 97 but they no longer make them so r1 shock it was. I was a little worried about the crack in the frame by the bolt but from what I read it'd be ok and so far after a month no issues.

I got lucky and got an 06 r1 shock off eBay for $25. I was able to get the spring off using ratchet straps.

Finding a bracket was the hard part. Most everyone that used to supply them on the forums no longer does. So I had to take these pics to a local fabricator:


Nick at Mountain Man welding was able to design and plasma cut a bracket for me for $60. Not as pretty as some of the other ones but it gets the job done without blocking the adjustment screw.
[email protected]


I bought my bolts and spacers from McMaster carr:
1JIS High-Strength Steel Flanged Hex Head Screw
M10 x 1.25 mm Thread, 60 mm Long
pack of 108.16
2JIS High-Strength Steel Flanged Hex Head Screw
M10 x 1.25 mm Thread, 100 mm Long
pack of 1011.11
3Aluminum Unthreaded Spacer
16 mm OD, 20 mm Long, for M10 Screw Size
4Aluminum Unthreaded Spacer
16 mm OD, 5 mm Long, for M10 Screw Size
5General Purpose 316 Stainless Steel Washer
for M10 Screw Size, 10.500 mm ID, 18 mm OD
pack of 508.57
6JIS High-Strength Steel Flange Nut
Class 10, Black-Phosphate, M10 x 1.25 mm Thread
pack of 507.40


Way more than I needed, but oh well. Only issue I had is with the long bolt being only partially threaded. I found the cheapest option was to borrow a die and cut set and fully thread it with an m10 x 1.25.

The bottom of the shock didn't quite fit so I had to shave maybe 1 mm off the eye of the shock with a metal file
Also fitting the mudguard back on required cutting. Heating up a knife with a heat gun made it cut like butter.


8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Fitting the tank bracket back on required cutting it down with a Dremel a little to clear the new bracket.


I also had to move one piece of the wiring under the tank to make it fit.

After riding I found the rubber stop was bottoming out so I trimmed it down as suggested.

It's working pretty well now. I've got it set at 3 turns out compression and 9 turns out rebound. Revolving might make it better, but it's better than it was at least.

One thing I wish I had done in this project is fully take the tank off. I kept it unbolted and just slid it off to the side with the hoses attached for almost the whole time, but near the end it slipped off and ripped one of the hoses and dented the tank.


So I figured this would at least be a good time to do the fuel filter mod. I lost the pictures of the pump, but you just take off the filter and replace it with submersible 5/16" fuel line. Make sure to replace your fuel pump gasket whick I found for about $15. Then under the tank you can use regular fuel line with two different doorman quick connects:
800-080 and 800-081
I used a wix 33027 filter:



Anyways I just wanted to post my experience so it'll hopefully help someone else just like the other posts have helped me. I know a lot of the posts, pictures and suppliers referenced in other guides are no longer valid or available.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.