TLZone Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just bought a 2007 R1 rear shock, that the scrap company got 2008. So it has only been used one season! I also got some material to make the bracket on the way.
I will have to get bolts and spacers when I mount it..

But will the bottom eye fit the swingarm as is, or do I need to grind anything? I have searched this site several times, but can't find anything about it..
I think i have seen something about taking off material from the "inside" (the side facing right when looking from the rear of the bike) of the bottom eye, but i cant find it again..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
65497
65498
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
65514

Bracket in the making..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
For you ppl that have done this mod.. For exampel: @Bill R @Troy @The Ring-In
The spacer needed on top, between the bracket and the damper, does it have to be larger than the metal spacer that sits inside the rubber bushing on the damper?
Is there any chance that the damper could move sideways towards the bracket if it isnt?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,905 Posts
when I do that conversion with a R1 damper I use a penny washer first then the spacer or just multiple penny washers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
when I do that conversion with a R1 damper I use a penny washer first then the spacer or just multiple penny washers.
Thanks! Then I will put a washer between the top eye and the spacer! 👍🏻
The bracket is almost done, just the holes left.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,905 Posts
(y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Got the holes drilled yesterday and finally got started! Took out the rotary and test fitted the R1 damper.

The bottom eye didn't quite fit the swing arm, gap between the tabs was 29mm and the bottom eye was 30mm. So I ground off 1mm from the right side of the spacer.

Also need to drill out the threads in the subframe for the top bolt.

Need to get a work light today.. had to use a flashlight most of the time, which was quite frustrating..
65521

65522
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,905 Posts
I also cut off about a third of the brown rubber cushion to give the damper just a little more travel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I also cut off about a third of the brown rubber cushion to give the damper just a little more travel.
I took off about half of it. But i removed from the top. I think i will cut off some at the bottom as well if needed...
@Tuckshop Ted Would there be any hazards involved if i removed it completly?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,905 Posts
I wouldn't say "hazard", but no doubt at some time in the future you will bottom out the damper and a rubber cushion in between two lumps of metal coming violently together is more desirable than a metal to metal one and I suspect a little kinder to the components.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jonstorp

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I wouldn't say "hazard", but no doubt at some time in the future you will bottom out the damper and a rubber cushion in between two lumps of metal coming violently together is more desirable than a metal to metal one and I suspect a little kinder to the components.
I will keep as much as possible then.
I have seen something about making the hole oval for the left tank support that mounts between the R1 top eye and the rear frame, and i can see why. However, i dont remember seeing anything about the tank hinge.. The left metal piece that attaches to the tank from the pivot point is very close to the bracket, in fact, right next to it. I has to cut out a half circle from it to clear the spacer between the bracket and shock... Does this seem right?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,905 Posts
I don't remember having to oval out the tank support hole or grind a half circle to clear the bracket/hinge. You have to on the older models if using a newer Ohlins bracket and damper.
Maybe you making the tank support oval has dropped the tank nearer the damper?
Also I normally fit the long bolt through the hinge bracket before I fix the two mounting bolts to the sub frame. Using the latter to pull down the tank and secure it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I don't remember having to oval out the tank support hole or grind a half circle to clear the bracket/hinge. You have to on the older models if using a newer Ohlins bracket and damper.
Maybe you making the tank support oval has dropped the tank nearer the damper?
Also I normally fit the long bolt through the hinge bracket before I fix the two mounting bolts to the sub frame. Using the latter to pull down the tank and secure it.
I'm using the curved bracket that gives me access to the rebound adjuster screw..

I got all to fit now, but I found out that my bolt for the top eye is 5mm to short.. damn it! otherwise I am very happy with the result so far. I will be doing the gap mod as well, now that I have most of the rear taken apart..
65523


What I needed to grind on tank hinge.
65524
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
@Tuckshop Ted
Now that I have the plastics removed from the tail, it seems that the damper isn't quite straight? When I look at it from the rear, it seems to "lean" right at the top?
65574

Is this ok? Otherwise I need to make the tank support thinner thus moving the top of the damper to the left..
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,905 Posts
this is what you are trying to emulate............

65575
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #17

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,905 Posts
correct
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top