TLS/R Clutch problem

2345 Views 17 Replies 10 Participants Last post by CrashB, Dec 21, 2013

CrashB

Discussion Starter · Dec 20, 2013

I know that for many people on here this is old hat, but iv had the typical TLS clutch problem suddenly leap on me out of the blue. Fine one min, the next min 3000-8000rpm without any change other than volume.
Having had a look, the previous owner of my TL has built it with a five bolt clutch and a TLR hydraulic clutch lever.
This, coupled with hours surfing the zone and planet has led me to confusing myself royally over how to solve this problem, and whether or not it is the old TL slipping clutch given the suddenness of its appearance.There is about 56,000km on the clock, and it suddenly went from wheelying happily in second to making lots of noise and having very limited acceleration
I'm not sure what to do to fix it. Will fitting barnett springs do the trick? Do I need to fit new friction plates/steel plates? will the hydraulics be a component of the problem? Downside of this time of year means its unlikely il get any orders posted before mid january...
Any guidance would be great!

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Six5

· #2 · Dec 20, 2013

CrashB said:
...... Fine one min, the next min 3000-8000rpm without any change other than volume.
Having had a look, the previous owner of my TL has built it with a five bolt clutch and a TLR hydraulic clutch lever.
....
There is about 56,000km on the clock, and it suddenly went from wheelying happily in second to making lots of noise and having very limited acceleration
I'm not sure what to do to fix it. .....!

So then, are we to understand that the clutch is consistently slipping when the revs reach 3000 rpm? Or is it just once in awhile?

Where is the engagement point when the clutch lever is released? Near the end of it's travel?

When you say, "making lots of noise," are you referring to the exhaust because it revs easily when the clutch slips, or are there new engine noises suddenly occurring?

Just trying to get a better picture....

kennyTL-S

· #3 · Dec 20, 2013

I have a nice six bolt clutch conversion with the BTL welded.
Ready to fit. :

complete with barnett springs. :devious

tlh

· #4 · Dec 20, 2013

If your back torque limiter is at its end, the clutch will slip at low revs when accelerating slowly. That is easy with the throttle. If you are accelerating fast from lower revs, it will not slip. That is due to the construction of the btl.

All other phenomena with clutch slipping is not caused by the btl.

All above: own experience. 97 tls, one of the first tls, lots of shit back then.
Kenny's btl will solve your problem if it is the btl.

Reactions: 1

CrashB

Discussion Starter · #5 · Dec 20, 2013

Six5 said:
So then, are we to understand that the clutch is consistently slipping when the revs reach 3000 rpm? Or is it just once in awhile?

Where is the engagement point when the clutch lever is released? Near the end of it's travel?

When you say, "making lots of noise," are you referring to the exhaust because it revs easily when the clutch slips.

It seems to be consistently slipping. The bite point on the clutch lever is exactly where its always been, no change there, and the lots of noise if the exhaust because it revs high without and increase in speed.

Im very tempted by the 6bolt clutch though... pmed.

geofftl1000r

· #6 · Dec 20, 2013

Not as simple as a sticking pushrod on the slave cylinder?

stu_m

· #7 · Dec 20, 2013

you don't need a 6 bolt you just need to figure out why its slipping

I have a 5 bolt in mine with a hydro clutch so same set up as you with no problems

you say nothing has changed?

first thing I would do it check to make sure the lever is releasing properly and not keeping pressure on the clutch

CrashB

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 20, 2013

I'm starting to think that myself. Just rode to my mates house and the clutch was slipping in 2nd and 3rd when i was rolling on the power. whilst there, i did a burnout, then rode home and there was no clutch slippage. Bang on performance all the way back... This is just doing my head in now.. I cant seem to find whats wrong.
Iv got barnett springs on the way, and i have two offers of 6spring clutches to slot in... Friction plates have been suggested. Im just confusing myself now

stu_m

· #9 · Dec 20, 2013

I would start with the lever/master cylinder as I said above then if no joy get the clutch centre welded if still no joy new friction plates

you cant use barnet springs on a welded centre though as there would be too much preload

oh and stock springs here too

Reactions: 1

1crock

· #10 · Dec 20, 2013

Pull the actuator and make sure everything behind it is nice and clean. There have been cases of things getting so dirty it would not allow the pushrod to properly retract. If that's not the problem look into getting the thing welded. You don't need a 6 spring and the new clutch springs will only mask the problem for a bit while making the lever pull hard.

The Ring-In

· #11 · Dec 20, 2013

if it bearks free at 3000 then its the centre needs welding.

Reactions: 1

snowblind

· #12 · Dec 20, 2013

..says the man who does a nice line in welded clutch centres.

The Ring-In

· #13 · Dec 20, 2013

..says the man who does a nice line in welded clutch centres.

and unfortunately on the bottom half of the planet.

so misses most of the market :banghead :lol

RichTLR

· #14 · Dec 20, 2013

could try free postage lol lol lol

Reactions: 1

stu_m

· #15 · Dec 20, 2013

I know someone coming your way for a month or 2 you could do a group buy and load my mates suitcase with 20 centres :laugh

turn around wouldnt be great though :laugh

snowblind

· #16 · Dec 20, 2013

:eatcorn

I want a front row seat at customs when he comes through. "Did you pack this bag yourself Sir?" :laugh

CrashB

Discussion Starter · #17 · Dec 20, 2013

Right, cleaned out and rebuilt the slave, cleaned the actuator now guna go give it a ride tomorrow and see how it goes...

CrashB

Discussion Starter · #18 · Dec 21, 2013

all running well! Not slipping now, thank you to all for the advice guys!

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