TLZone Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi All
What is the best way to get the hollow stud out of the crankcase that holds the oil filter in place. I thought it may have a hex bore so an allen key would remove it ...But no.
Does it just need heat and mould grips?
If you have taken one out before can you please give me a heads up.
Many thanks,
Andy
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,766 Posts
A picture would be nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi Josh,
Can't get to the bike at the mo. It's the threaded part that the oil filter screws onto.
Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hi Six5.

Yes, on the TLR it does, the heat exchanger oil filter spigot does have a hex flange and can be easily removed. The TLS oil filter spigot seems to be screwed direct into the crankcase and has no hex flange or anyway of getting it out with a specific tool.

Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hi Six5,

Thank you for your reply,

I have now taken it out, lots of heat and gentle persuasion. Still indents slightly on the threads though where the oil filter screws on but at least its off.

Can't seem to post pictures yet, will try later, maybe an issue with my PC.

Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
You could get two nuts and jam them then crack so you didn't have to go on the threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
In case anyone comes back to this.

2 M20x1.0 nuts would be correct I think...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Yes, M20x1 Extra Fine thread are the nuts needed, finding them local could be a bit of an issue. Order online I guess. locking the nuts together will work, takes a bit of an effort to get it moving the thread-lock does its job! Heat helps it let go.
 

·
The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
Joined
·
15,414 Posts
I use a piece of 5mm thick rubber sheet around it and molegrips (or vice if the engine cases are stripped) to clamp the rubber tight. But before that I heat it up with a torch to soften the Loctite.

Then after removing it I then use a 3/4"-16 BS Conduit Tap covered in grease to remove the remaining Loctite and stop it staying in the main oil gallery.

If you fitting the TLR heat exchanger then be careful as the early TLS oil filter flange on the cases isn't big enough diameter to cover the heat exchanger O-Ring seal.

You can make a large 80mm diameter metal disc with at least a 30mm diameter hole in the centre with gasket paper on the case side to make it match and seal

But also be aware the TLS and TLR starter motor alloy end castings are slightly different profile shape and the early TLS starter motor hits the TLR heat exchanger......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Hi Sam,

Thank you for the input, i'll bolt up this weekend, and see if I have any issues. Did not know that about the starter motors, have to look out for this. Its not a 97 model so should be OK.

Andy
 

·
The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
Joined
·
15,414 Posts
Yes the bottom starter motor assembly long bolt is more to the right on the 97 TLS one and touches the heat exchanger
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top