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TLS foreign shocks and R swingers

43K views 99 replies 21 participants last post by  Husky 
#1 ·
There is a lot written on this subject already and a sticky on the subject in the making . maybe some of this may find its way to something permanent eventually.

my S has been a bit of a guinea pig for my experimentation.

I fitted my first foreign shock before I discovered the Zone so I had to sort a lot of things for myself.

My first choice of shock was from an Aprilia rsvr and would have required fitting a linkage thru the swinger, I abandoned that in favour of a whitepower from a cagiva 1000 raptor.

I discovered that if i shortened the top eye down to 290mm it would fit between the original damper mounts on the swinger and the centre line of the top subframe bolts.

I made a bracket turned some spacers and presto it was up and running.

I then decided to go for an R swinger so I swapped some money and some clipons with ITSMESTEVE for his spare. Then niissn1 had one cheap so I bought it too.

Then I bought a tig welder , milling machine and had 3 phase put on the house (but thats another story)

Recently I converted the R swingers. I had thought to make 2 one for me and another to sell. I had the damper mounts on both when I saw TLDV8's R ohlins in an S and thougt differently. I took the damper mounts off the second and set it up to mount the whitepower complete with spring centrally on the R swinger. it is set to clear the hugger and span the rear exhaust.

My bike is in the process of being nakeded, so its really easy to see the frame and the mods as they take place.

This is my shock and bracket used in the first fitment.




I fitted in the mounts on the left of the S swinger and used the spring on a stick.



The bracket bolted to the left rotary damper braket on the frame and a bolt passed thru the top subframe hole and the top shock eye to the top hole in the bracket and was spaced into place.This pic shows the space and bolt locations

 
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#66 ·
Ducati 999 maybe, if it's same length as a 1098
Or cbr600 Toledohas a 1098
Adstl had a cbr, but now going 1098
 
#68 ·
Or, how about a revalved r6?
As you've already got one
 
#69 ·
Just keep saying 1098. Eventually he'll do it.
Its like the hypnotoad. He will be powerless to resist.
 
#72 ·
That's where the shock conversion is good, junk the soas,
Might have a gap tray kicking around somewhere, and adstl offers them for a good price
And a battery will still fit under seat, there's someone on a recent thread who laid the battery down under the rear seat catch
 
#74 ·
No fabrication needed if using a tlr exhaust
Which a few have done
But I'll be using a.braced tls arm with mounts moved
 
#77 ·
wow that is a very nice offer deft. but im probably not needing it as i have just bought a TLR swing arm that was already fitted to an S and a full Yoshi system that was fitted to the same bike, apparently the system is an S one and the swingarm hasnt been modified so im a bit lost there really ? ( unless the headers are actually off an R ) i might need a picture of each system so i can compare

why did u remove this swingarm:O
 
#78 ·
the reason it fits is that when the r came out yoshi ditched the original s collector and just used the r version for both bikes, i had to modify my swingarm because the yoshi collector i have is one of the original s versions that ran in the same layout as the std s system so it wouldnt clear the tlr swinger.


I removed the tlr swing arm so i could put my Yamaha R1 swing arm on:devious, just copying steve's tlr:hail, na i brought some R1 wheels and it was nice and neat to have the R1 swing arm and all factory stock bits on it.
 
#80 ·
The swingarm looks good it suits the bike I have just put a tlr swingarm on my tls with R1 shock. There are just a few things im needing advise about as I have had a 1100 lbs spring put on it ,but when I sit on the bike im on tip toes the same as I was before. I weight 92 kgs with all me kit on the seat height is 820 mm at its lowest point when the bike is stood up , and its meant to be 835 mm . When I push the back of the bike down there is 25 mm left before it hits the bump stop , and that's where it stops as it wont go down anymore . I just wont to no if I need to put on a much stiffer spring , and I have also used 38 mm spacers each side of the shock at the top do I need to make them a lot thinner any advise from u guys would be very grateful thanks
 
#81 ·
You sound a little confused. A stiff spring is not to change the seat height, but resistance to bottoming. A shorter shock will lower the seat height or a ride height adjuster.
Spacers each side of the shock will not alter ride height.

You should be careful with your project if this is your understanding of suspension.

I didn't think the R1 shock could be fitted with the spring in place?

Photos?
 
#83 ·
tlr swingarm on my tls with R1 shock.
the shock is 15mm too long with the spring fitted and the steering geometry will be completely wrong.....

If you had paid close attention to the threads where people do these mods they are very careful to measure the height of the axle to the subframe to retain the correct geometry .

they either shorten the shock or make brackets that allow it to sit at the correct height.

when I started this thread I did not intend it to be a license for people to make mistakes ..

but clearly some people do not really understand what they are doing.

the correct length of shock for an S is 285mm

an R1 shock is 300mm

there is no way this will work properly

there is also a movement to use the 1098 shock which was first done by terry lemmons and now the bike is owned by N2wheelies

this shock is also too long but he had it shortened .

others are trying to use the 1098 but seem to have overlooked this detail.
 
#85 ·
I have mounted the shock from my tlr swingarm up threw the gap between the frame and the battery. I have made up brackets with the top of the shock just in front of the subrame bolt hole , but down 10 mm the shock hasn't been shortened in any way . It isn't touching or fouling any of the body or frame , but the bike sits level on the ground as I have put a 2010 hayabusa front end on my bike if u want pictures I will have to upload them on to the site. I was going to go and try it up the alley just to see what it would be like, but am going to leave it for now .
 
#86 ·
If you've gone 10mm lower with your mounting hole then you have virtually nullafied the moving it forward.
For a TLR swingarm and approx. 300mm shock (mine was 297) your mounting point should be 40mm forward and level with the subframe mounts.
You really need to get some measurements from an unmolested bike and start from there.

Example of mounting:-

 
#87 ·
The first tie hook on the subframe is 15 inches top the top of the welding on the swingarm ,and I have measured both sides. I have made up my own brackets that are bolted to the sides of the frame all of the bolts are high tensile steel bolts that are 10.9 for strength . I am going to put a bolt straight threw from one side of the subrame to the other side going threw both brackets with spacers in between . On the bottom of the shock I have put a 12 mm bolt threw the both brackets with the shock in between ,and put a 38 mm spacer that is 56 mm long in between the outer bracket just to spread the load . The bike sits at 5.5 inches at its lowest point from the ground up
 
#91 ·
You still need to compare your measurement of 15.5" to a standard bike.
Sounds like you are on the right track.
 
#95 ·
The measurement of 5.5 inches from the ground to the lowest point of the bike is exactly the same as a standard bike . I took a lot of measurements before i started all the conversions on my bike where the shock is located i have thought long and hard and researched this to do this conversion on my bike . I am not stupid all i would like is advise and for u guys to point me in the right direction, and tell me if i am doing anything wrong . I am going to try me bike tomorrow to c what its like many thanks for your advise and comments
 
#96 ·
May be the photos, but your mounting point looks like it is higher than the subframe mounts. If thats the case, i think you will foul the tank.
Is there any clearance between your spacers and the shock body? Looks very close. You need some clearance so it does not bind, but I'm sure you realise that.
Does the shock reservoir clear everything at full compression? Remember your tyre will grow at speed. Some have had trouble with rubbing.
 
#97 ·
Good morning many thanks for the reply the shock bolt is only 5mm higher than the subframe bolt i have measured and the tank sits on the rubbers with 5mm to spare. The shock reservior doesnt foul anything as my son has pushed down on the back of the bike so that i can see whats going on. I have only used a R1 shock because gatztl1000r made a comment on here to another bloke that if he was going to use his R1 shock all he had to do was put a spring back on it , and use it with a tlr swingarm . I only took that as a challenge and did a bit of research i even spoke to my mate who builds frames for race bikes and for people who are doing one of bikes he nows what hes talking about as hes being doing it for 11 years . I am hoping that with the 2010 busa front end it will be a totally different bike to ride but only for the better . Could you tell me if the spacers are to big at the top only your ones looked a lot smaller as the only reason i made them that big was so the shock wouldnt move from side to side would be very grateful for the help many thanks
 
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