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Discussion Starter #1
There is a lot written on this subject already and a sticky on the subject in the making . maybe some of this may find its way to something permanent eventually.

my S has been a bit of a guinea pig for my experimentation.

I fitted my first foreign shock before I discovered the Zone so I had to sort a lot of things for myself.

My first choice of shock was from an Aprilia rsvr and would have required fitting a linkage thru the swinger, I abandoned that in favour of a whitepower from a cagiva 1000 raptor.

I discovered that if i shortened the top eye down to 290mm it would fit between the original damper mounts on the swinger and the centre line of the top subframe bolts.

I made a bracket turned some spacers and presto it was up and running.

I then decided to go for an R swinger so I swapped some money and some clipons with ITSMESTEVE for his spare. Then niissn1 had one cheap so I bought it too.

Then I bought a tig welder , milling machine and had 3 phase put on the house (but thats another story)

Recently I converted the R swingers. I had thought to make 2 one for me and another to sell. I had the damper mounts on both when I saw TLDV8's R ohlins in an S and thougt differently. I took the damper mounts off the second and set it up to mount the whitepower complete with spring centrally on the R swinger. it is set to clear the hugger and span the rear exhaust.

My bike is in the process of being nakeded, so its really easy to see the frame and the mods as they take place.

This is my shock and bracket used in the first fitment.




I fitted in the mounts on the left of the S swinger and used the spring on a stick.



The bracket bolted to the left rotary damper braket on the frame and a bolt passed thru the top subframe hole and the top shock eye to the top hole in the bracket and was spaced into place.This pic shows the space and bolt locations

 

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Discussion Starter #2
I then embarked upon the R mod. I took the std R and cut off the shock and damper brackets , I also cut a section out of the brace to clear the std S exhaust, (this is not necessary with an aftermarket or R exhaust system, some people have dropped the rear pipe down but this is a compromise.
The left exhaust mount on the frame must be removed as it fouls the R brace.

This is the R with the cut out .



and with a plate welded into the hole



Don't leave them alone they like to cuddle up :laugh



The bracket is removed and the swinger has full downward travel



The bare R swinger is offered up. the exhaust cutout is clearly visible



The damper mounts are fitted and the swinger is set to the fully extended position with a wire strainer.



The spring mounts are welded on



The finished R arm for an S side view showing the cutout and the brackets

 

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Discussion Starter #3
The next stage is to setup an R arm for a centrally mounted shock and spring assembly. The R swinger was stripped of its S damper mounts I had already fitted and set up for consideration.
the position of the shock has to clear the bits around it so I chose to mount it slightly right of centre and midway between the std damper brackets.

the mounts for the swinger were then machined to position the bottom shock mount so it clears the hugger and the rear height of the bike I chose to lower 5mm from std at the same time. the brackets were tacked in place and then welded on. the shock brackets are yet to be made.as are the spacers, ( tho I believe there is a movement towards the use of huge quantities of washers :lol).

shock and spring prior to removing the damper mounts



side view for evaluation of space



brackets being machined for height



brackets



brackets and shock setup ready to tack in place

 

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nice write up lots of info there...
 

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You guys welding alu... You're not afraid to introduce weakness in the material due to the local heating? I thought all parts like swingarm, frame and such were heat cycled after manufacturing to have the material hardened consistently and to remove local stress points. :O

Maybe it depends on which alu quality you use...
 

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You're not afraid to introduce weakness in the material due to the local heating? I thought all parts like swingarm, frame and such were heat cycled after manufacturing to have the material hardened consistently and to remove local stress points. :O
Pah, heat cycling is for ponces, "men in a shed" just weld it again if it cracks :laugh

Yes it should be heat cycled if you're a big name manufacturer who doesn't want frame recalls (but even then it doesn't always work :devious)

From a man in shed point of view the main problem is distortion, keep on top of that and you're half way there :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the issue of heat affected regions is valid.

in ideal situations you design the mountings to minimise such problems.

most aluminiums are suitable for welding especially those which are already welded. choice of rods and techniques goes a long way to helping too. materials such as 6016 t6 will age harden back to its original properties after sitting for a few weeks tho this has be accelerated by heat treatment to ensure proper temper

perhaps a bigger problem would be poor design of bracketry causing highly stressed areas on the job. Phil Irving had something to say on this subject in "tuning for speed" and caroll Smith had a really excellent chapter in "prepairing to win".
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have now finished my centre mounted white power conversion (inspired by les TLDV8). so here are some pics to conplete the thread.

The R swinger with cutout and std exhaust fitted



The top shock mount support brackets.



And the brackets bolted in place



At this point I decided to minimise unsprung weight by mounting the shock upside down. this pic has the shock in place with the spacers machined and located



top view I had to notch the r/h tank support bracket to clear the bracket.



BTW you can clearly see my high mount muffler clearing footpeg brackets in these pics they allow a more comfortable riding position with the high mounts
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh and I will probably sell the other converted swinger.
 

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Nice work:hail
 

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Discussion Starter #13
spring rate? the shock was for a raptor and the mounting position is simialr so I'm hoping its ok . don't know the actual rate . if it needs changing I'll get it measured and adjust from there

What shocks will work? I'd say the showa is a go as a member has worked out the valving using a raceteck gold valve would be the most straight forward......any shock 280 /290mm will work if sprung and valved properly .

badrhino is about to experiment with a ducati1080 sachs shock so we'll see if that one is a candidate.
the same shock will work in bot locations but the diameter of the spring is an issue. my whitepower is about 90mm and would not waork as a spring shock assy in the left hand mounting only in the centre mounting . showas seem slimmer and will mount either poition.As les has found (TLDV8) the ohlins TLR will work so that suggests that a bitubo R shock is a candidate too.

I will add that the easiest conversion of all would be to do the R swinger with only the R/H bracketry and a bitubo on the SOAS lnikage.

These conversions are not simple . they are easy with a bit of patience. there are things that will not fit easily afterwards. any damper mounted in the L/H or centre posn will foul the tank mount and this requires filing to clear.

I expect my centre mount will foul the battery and wiring so maybe a few more photo but that was not really the purpose of this thread, it was to detail the options .
 

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when i get around to doing my refit i'll be trying to use a buell XB9SX shock
but the difference is the r1 swinger im using so its a bit off topic for this thread
 

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Discussion Starter #16
SAm has posted a neat one when he SSided his special.

A serious consideration in this as sam pointed out is getting sufficient travel and mounting the upper shock linkages.

If the shock and arm have rising rate linkages consider whether you can fit them in , if not you will be re-springing and valving the shock.

post some pics as you go :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I learned today that the spring rate is 160kg and this suits my 80kg weight and takes a pillion comfortably.
 

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Perhaps these TLR ohlins data could help you (approximatevely same geometry):

Spring rate : 21 Kg/mm
Free spring lenght : 150 mm
Preload : 12 mm
Shock lenght : 253 mm

Good results for 75/80 kgs rider

For 60/65 kgs rider a 19 kg/mm spring rider is better :devious
 

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Discussion Starter #19
useful info:thumbup

the critical length for use on an S is 290mm

Btw crazymofo is going to offer an OHLINS to suit an S very soon. no spring type shock.
 
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