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Discussion Starter #22
Tony,
... Right above the front sprocket is a bolt with a big ground strap. You should remove the bolt and clean it and the ring terminal area and reattach. I know you love cleaning!
No idea what you're referring to.
 

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No idea what you're referring to.
I didn't call you Tony... those were 2 separate paragraphs... :laugh

I will speak your favorite language... A PICTURE!



That is the main chassis ground. Basically the path to ground for everything.
.. Disregard that second wire. That is my Six5 Approved Grounding Mod... :rotfl
 

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Where exactly is that ground strap located? Thanks for the photo!
Ricky,

Should have taken a picture of the engine on a bench and not my bike... :rotfl



Remove bolt. Clean bolt shoulder and engine surface. Take ground strap, clean it with a brass brush to get it nice and shiny. Put some dielectric grease if you are kinky. Reassemble.
 

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rxf610 said:
Tony,

Isn't that burnt up wire in the foreground the ground spade that you suggest completely eliminating?
.....
Eliott, if you are referring to this photo Josh posted, then yes, I agree, it looks like that single Spade connector on the main loom ground.
It is a good time to get rid of it, while he is in there messing with the wires....

Thanks for catching that. :thumbup
 

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Ricky,

Should have taken a picture of the engine on a bench and not my bike... :rotfl

Remove bolt. Clean bolt shoulder and engine surface. Take ground strap, clean it with a brass brush to get it nice and shiny. Put some dielectric grease if you are kinky. Reassemble.
Got it thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Still haven't replaced the inline fuse. After looking at it I'm thinking it's only necessary if I run it directly to the battery. If I run the wires to the Starter solenoid I can just use its 30 amp fuse.
 

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Still haven't replaced the inline fuse. After looking at it I'm thinking it's only necessary if I run it directly to the battery. If I run the wires to the Starter solenoid I can just use its 30 amp fuse.
Huh? :O :confused

Josh, I was reading through this thread again, and your last post quoted above struck me as odd. If I understand your comment correctly, you say the charging mod wires can be run directly to the starter solenoid and thereby avoid a new inline fuse.
If so, how do you intend to connect to the starter solenoid?

If you connect the wires at the same location where the battery cable connects, then you are in fact connecting directly to the battery and not going through the 30 amp fuse.

In the OEM configuration, the main fuse is between the battery and the solid Red wire (from the SR connector) which is also tied directly to the Red/White wire inside starter relay. In order to use the fuse in the starter relay, you would have to connect the charging mod to one of those two wires. However, that would be a step in the wrong direction, because the tiny terminals in the starter relay connector are part of the original OEM charging problem. Those small terminals in the starter relay connector just can't handle the load placed on them,. That's why the headlight relay mod is recommended in conjunction with the charging mod, because it reduces the current flowing through those starter relay terminals.

Maybe you can provide a few more details on the connections you actually made with your charging mod. :dowhat
 

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Discussion Starter #30
You're right Tony, I was referring to connecting the wires to the +/- terminals on the relay. I get the same 13.5 v charge via the relay terminals as I do with directly connecting them to the +/- terminals on the battery.

My thinking was that the 30amp fuse protects against all voltages coming FROM the battery into the relay, and since the battery terminals connect directly to the relay terminals, then the fuse protects against all voltages going from the relay terminals to the main loom.

I may have explained it poorly. Basically the 30 amp relay fuse bridges everything going into the relay terminals with the four wires leading to the loom. Thus the loom is protected against anything directly connected to the relay terminals.

I will create a diagram and post it later. But this logic seems sound to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Well it turns out the charging Mod was not the issue. Had some buyers coming to look at it yesterday so I decided to let it run for a while. Once it got up to around 210 degrees the tach failed again. After jiggling some wires I found this one to be the culprit. Although it's hard to recreate the problem. Bike and wire has to be hot for the tach to fail, and i have to disconnect it completely before it begins stalling. Not sure why it stalls without unplugging it while riding.

IMG_1940.JPG
IMG_1941.JPG

NOTE: Wire did not look like this when I rebuilt the bike, so its appearance is linked to the issue.
 

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Well it turns out the charging Mod was not the issue. ....... After jiggling some wires I found this one to be the culprit. Although it's hard to recreate the problem. Bike and wire has to be hot for the tach to fail, and i have to disconnect it completely before it begins stalling. Not sure why it stalls without unplugging it while riding.

NOTE: Wire did not look like this when I rebuilt the bike, so its appearance is linked to the issue.
Josh, that looks like the main Loom ground wire spade terminal. It is a common problem area. That could explain some of the odd instrument behavior. It's best just to remove the connector completely and hardwire that ground wire to the chassis at the same point where the negative battery cable connects to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thanks Tony. Is this the ground MOD that I've head about in conversations? If so, any threads on it? Also, is it typical for it to get so hot all of a sudden? I know all about the poorly gaggle mess of ground wires in the loom, but I'm wondering if I did something during the resurrection that contributed to this?
 

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.......Is this the ground MOD that I've head about in conversations? If so, any threads on it? Also, is it typical for it to get so hot all of a sudden? ........
Yes, this is likely the mod you have heard about. :) There is no centralized direction on making this change that I am aware of, but I found this post from years ago that provides the basic outline.

https://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki-tl1000r-tl1000s-forum/134741-wanted-say-hello-got-tls-post1737077.html#post1737077

I may have some photos of mine floating around, but I also recall rxf610 has posted some photos of the engine case connection and such.

The reason the wire gets hot is because the Spade terminal, or the wire itself, begins to corrode and is unable to pass the current required by the system. As you know, any resistance to current flow equals heat. Therefore, if you increase the wire size to a larger gauge, and eliminate the Spade connector entirely, it should solve your problem with the loom ground.
 
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