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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 01 TLR with a little over 14000k. I recently changed my oil and found metal shaving in it and on the oil plug. It takes about 3 or 4 times for me to start the bike after it primes. The bike has been down twice. Once very hard and one was a little collision with a buddy. Bad communication. When I turn my steering all the way to the right, the idle shoots up to almost redlining. When I turn it to the left it boggs down When I adjust my idle initially, it will stay. As soon as I rev it up it ends up sticking there for a second, then slowly comes back down a little bit. Or if I go to accelerate, it will just herk and jerk. The FI indicator comes on from time to time. I know there is a way to check for the code with a paper clip but I'm not familiar with how to do it. I have never been the type to fix up something myself. Don't really have the patience. I have pics but don't know how to put them on the computer. What do you guys think? Should I part with it or try to fix it up? Also, how much will an engine rebuild run me? Thanks:confused
 

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i dont think you'll need to touch the motor...sounds like your throttle cables are a bit tight... you want a small amount of play in the twist grip. not too much though. just slacken the adjuster knob uder the twist grip to get the correct amount of play.:)
 

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the idle issue is a small issue bro. relax and dont make mountains out of mole hills. if you cant sort out the cable slack issue yourself( which theres no harm in that, up until the last few years i couldnt fix anything myself) take it to a wrench and let them do it for you. shouldnt cost too much. however the metal shavings are another story.
And to see what the code is(dealer mode), go to the back of your bike , near the brake lights, and under the rear seat/hump, youll find a plug that only has 2 wires going to it and its just capped off. It seems to go nowhere- flip the cover off it and put a paper clip between the 2 terminals to connect between the 2 wires. then turn on the key and look at the digital display on the gauges and there will be a C-- code. Post back the numbers after the C and soneone will tell you what the code is. if you cant find the right plug, lemme know and ill throw you a picture on here so youll see it. good luck and let us know what you find.
And if youre gonna have a bike, and you dont have a mechanic you can trust, you need to find one. serioulsy it can sometimes make all the difference. and you may get burned a few times while finding one, and sometimes that leads us to doing our own work. But usually a smaller bike shop will be better then a dealership.
 

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I recently changed my oil and found metal shaving in it and on the oil plug.
Now that could be serious, if really shavings and not just powder. Could be any of a large number of things from cam idler gera bushing to trans. But its most often a rod big end bearing, and you don't want that. If a big end bearing starts to go you'll hear it start knocking. If that happens, shut it off and have it towed home.

Wash the reside (use rubbing alcohol if you don't have anything else) and check the color of the residue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the idle issue is a small issue bro. relax and dont make mountains out of mole hills. if you cant sort out the cable slack issue yourself( which theres no harm in that, up until the last few years i couldnt fix anything myself) take it to a wrench and let them do it for you. shouldnt cost too much. however the metal shavings are another story.
And to see what the code is(dealer mode), go to the back of your bike , near the brake lights, and under the rear seat/hump, youll find a plug that only has 2 wires going to it and its just capped off. It seems to go nowhere- flip the cover off it and put a paper clip between the 2 terminals to connect between the 2 wires. then turn on the key and look at the digital display on the gauges and there will be a C-- code. Post back the numbers after the C and soneone will tell you what the code is. if you cant find the right plug, lemme know and ill throw you a picture on here so youll see it. good luck and let us know what you find.
And if youre gonna have a bike, and you dont have a mechanic you can trust, you need to find one. serioulsy it can sometimes make all the difference. and you may get burned a few times while finding one, and sometimes that leads us to doing our own work. But usually a smaller bike shop will be better then a dealership.
Yeah, I've already been burned once by a mechanic. I paid him for a diagnostic test and he said there was nothing wrong. I get it back and here we go again. As far as the Idle adjustment, my buddy and I tried. It didn't work. When I adjust it, it is fine until I rev up the engine or cut the bike off. If it is too high or too low, it will show after I cut the bike off and turn it back on again. Does the FI indicator have to be on in order to check for the code or can I check it anytime? I'm in the Dallas, Ft. Worth area. Know of anywhere to trust with the beast? I've found a lot of wrenches don't know about the TL.
 

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Check the routing of the throtle cables. Since the bike has been down twice you need to have a good look at them and see if one of them is kinked.

Do as doug says and adjust the TPs and TBs.

A bit of small metal pieces on the drain plug isn't unusual. If large chunks fall out you've got a problem though. :dowhat
 

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TPS - throttle position sensor
TBs - Throttle bodies.

There's a good video somewhere around here that will walk you through the procedure. it really is a simple as it looks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the info guys and gals. I will check all of it this weekend. I really appreciate your help. Get back to you soon.
 
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