[turncoat]

...LE is making a new batch apparently, get those TLR penske orders in!

Anyway, here's an update from my previous post on TLP.
click...

Bracket and spacers are all from 1/2" 6061 AL, laser cut. I'm a little leery of the strength of the long rotary shock bolts - probably going to use four smaller bolts if I can find the right metric thread bolts for the right side...

Also, can anyone confirm my Penske's spring? Looks like an 800#, but I'm not sure... 3.25 turns (between touching coils), approx 0.45" wire, approx 2.375 I.D. - calculates to 800#, but my measuring may be a little off due to the thick coating. Anyone confirm how many turns to a 750# or 800# spring?

Anyway, tell me what you think...good or bad comments welcome, my feelings won't be hurt.

 

[veetwo tls]

i like it
one of the best setups ive seen & it gets rid of the OEM crap.

 

[rufer]

Interesting. You're sure the mounts are strong enough?

Greetings
Rufer

 

[TLstreak]

Im kinda seeing Rufers pov. I dunno about the mounts on the swingarm.

 

[brittls]

cracked frame anyone???

i'm afraid i wouldn't trust that as far as i could throw it. be ok if you ditched the spring. but you've now occupied the soas mount :dowhat

i've got the MAL 601 showa mod on my tls and it works superb, better than the bitubo i've just taken off

just my 10p (or 2c)

 

[wsmc831]

As long as it's strong enough and has the same geometry and linkage as a normal TLR setup, should work fine. Still glad I bought an S setup while they were available though.

 

[tl1000lasse]

I would prefer a steper angle and the tabs welded closer together otherwise it´s looks good :thumbup

 

[turncoat]

Hmmm...still looking for more interesting comments. My goals were to get rid of the downright rude SOAS for many reasons, likewise with the rotary damper. I also wanted a linkaged damper and spring - (I think) there are too many compromises with direct damper setups like the TLS Ohlins or wilber setup.

I am quite convinced that the 1/2"+ thick mounts already on the frame will be sufficient to hold the spring/damper load, and I do not doubt the strength of my fabricated 1/2" thick mounts emulating the TLR mounting geometry. At one point I was considering chickening out and going with steel in case I get any flex (and aluminum fatigue...) but I decided for the better.

I also decided not to weld onto the frame, I do not trust any of the people I know to weld aluminum in such a critical place, and was thinking of making evolution parts down the road especially if people wanted to have a copy of my setup. I am considering rev. 2 will have an eccentric spacer on the top shock mount such that ride height can be properly adjusted (separate from preload)...

Consider that a lot of people have no problem mounting the Wilber or Ohlins damper on only one of the rotary shock tabs (the thinner left one even), and directly, without a linkage even! In fact the one (I forget which) that uses the subframe mount downright scares me! I am using both rotary shock tabs, including the thicker one on the right which previously also had to deal with some of the leverage of the SOAS linkage. I took a good look and measurement at the frame where the rotary shock mounts on the TLS - it looks as stiff or stiffer than where the TLR penske mounts, and I haven't heard of any problems there.

I will fix the TLR swingarm shock mounts by welding back the swingarm tab in the new place and make some 1" O.D. AL spacers to cover the gap, so I will not be left with that long stock bolt on the swingarm. I will also be using four bolts on the frame tabs instead of the two old ones pictures, to better secure the new brackets to the frame.

The track season is pretty much done up here, so it'll have to wait until next year to test it out, unfortunately. Besides, it'll handle like crap anyway with my stock front fork...hopefully will get around to revalve/respringing it this winter.

Nobody knows which # spring I have...?

 

[turncoat]

Ummm....How did this post get moved somehow into "bike pictures" from the general forum? Please move it back?

 

[tls-moose]

I'm interested (very interested), but I think you miss the point regarding peoples queries about frame strength :confused TLS's are prone to cracking those mounts with just a damper installed. The Ohlins/Wilbers/maxton/Penske set-ups that people are (more than) happy to bolt up to those same mounts are purely dampers, not spring units as well :O It is the spring unit that carries the rider/bike weight and transmits the road shocks through to the frame, your proposal is thus putting a different type of load into those frame members.

The intriguing thing for me is that you chose to go with a TLR shock ...... which (like the S) is a rather rare unit being shorter than most - As you are already talking of eccentrics for altering ride height, surely it would be more sensible to adjust the length of the brackets so that a more common (R1/GSXR/CBR?) shock could be used :O

 

[rufer]

Consider that a lot of people have no problem mounting the Wilber or Ohlins damper on only one of the rotary shock tabs (the thinner left one even), and directly, without a linkage even! In fact the one (I forget which) that uses the subframe mount downright scares me! I am using both rotary shock tabs, including the thicker one on the right which previously also had to deal with some of the leverage of the SOAS linkage. I took a good look and measurement at the frame where the rotary shock mounts on the TLS - it looks as stiff or stiffer than where the TLR penske mounts, and I haven't heard of any problems there.

Yes, but the Wilbers and Ohlins are both only dampers. The spring on the wilbers is just a very soft helper spring. Also the bottom out / top off is handled by the SOAS which is bolted very solid into the frame.

The thing that I'm concerned is that it will tear off the mounts on the frame if the suspension bottoms out/tops off. The angles to the frame are really not ideal, there will be huge forces to the Al there.

But again, it's very interesting if it's strong enough.

Greetings
Rufer

 

[brittls]

:stupid

 

[turncoat]

Thanks for the input - I did a much better search on TLS frames cracking and came up with a few things...

1.) The 1/2" mounts themselves seem prone to cracking as all of you say, especially the thinner left one. That's interesting, maybe not one that's going to be easy to fix - I think I might make a third bracket similar to the Ohlins as well, one that would shore it up to the upper left subframe mount, similar to what the Ohlins does. Maybe even a fourth short leg to get the top of the shock mount to the right subframe too. Getting a little overbuilt though, and I really don't think these subframe mounts have any strength - they are really thin and hollowed out on the inside.

2.) I thought people were more concerned with the crossmember itself, but that doesn't seem the case. It has quite a lot of weld between it and the frame, and braces with the transmission as well, so I am not doubting it. Anyone know of the crossmember cracking?

3.) The SOAS already carries a lot of stress on the right rotary shock tab on it's pivot...I will be putting a spacer and bolt back in there to try to shore back up that side...I would say that should shore up the right side of the frame better.

I am guessing that a lot of people with cracked rotary mount tabs had slightly loosened bolts at one time or another. Mine were a little loose when I first bought the bike and gave it a once-over.

More thoughts?