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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I searched briefly on Google but couldnt find what I was looking for..

It's a 99 TLR. When I turn the key to 'on', nothing happens. It acts as if the key is still off, or the battery is not connected. No dashboard lights, fuel pump priming, HID ballasts priming -- anything. This happened to me once or twice a few months back when I first bought the bike, but it 'fixed itself' by playing around with the key (turning it on and off a few times, wiggling a few wires). It's been two days now, and I'm still getting nothing when I turn the key to the ON position. I checked the battery, and it's fully charged. The main fuses are not blown, and neither is the 'Ignition' fuse from the front fuse box. There is a 2 prong black/orange wire that is not connected to anything, but as far as I can tell it has been this way since I bought the bike. Some yo-yo previous owner relocated the battery to underneath the rear seat cowl, and it appears there are a few random cuts in the wiring harness (apparently has a TRE and PC2 installed I was told). I checked and cleaned most of the wiring connections, but still nothing. Is there a way to check to see if my ignition switch is bad? Would a faulty side stand relay or starter relay cause the issue I'm experiencing?
 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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.... There is a 2 prong black/orange wire that is not connected to anything, ...
What do you mean by a 2-prong wire?
Black/Orange comes off fuse #3 and goes to the side-stand relay - the output from that relay is orange/black which goes to the stop/run switch.

First, pull fuse 3 - see if you can measure voltage when you put the probe in the fuse socket - one side should be hot with ignition on. (measure any voltages wrt to battery -ve)
If it's not good, then you have no voltage coming in from ignition; if good, re-insert fuse and see if you have voltage on that black/orange wire that is hanging loose. Also, you could open the start/run switch & see if you get voltage on the orange/black wire there and also the orange/white when switch is in run position (be sure to have ignition off when you first undo the run switch from the bar but will need to turn it on again to check it)

See how that goes for starters - report back & will take it from there based on what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2 prong connector, my bad. I should know better, I'm an EE after all hahaha, I'll go prod around and see what I find.
 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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2 prong connector....
But there are black/orange wires on both terminals?
Does connector plug look OEM? Or something someone has perhaps inserted in the middle of the wire?
Can you take a pic?

As far as I can see there is no 2-pin connector with black/orange wires ...........
 

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Yeah... picture worth a thousand words.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay -- just checked the fuse box. With only the 10A ignition fuse removed, I get no voltage across either pin in its socket to batt. negative. However, with the 15A signal fuse removed as well, I get about 1V to batt. neg. on the 10A Ignition socket. If I go on and remove the 15A Headlight HI and 15A Lo fuses as well, I see 12V at the Ignition socket. Weird.

No voltage across the mystery connector. Upon closer inspection, the wires are Orange w/ Yellow stripe, and Black w/ Red stripe. This picture is taken looking down from a riding position at the area of the starter relay on the right side of the bike with the fairing unbolted and pulled away. It is definitely a factory OEM connector, and goes back into the main harness, which is all bundle wrapped in electrical tape.
 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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That is one of the cooling fan connectors - irreleavnt to your problem, but should be connected to one of the fans.

Back to the problem
OK - I believe this is one of my 'favourite' issues and one of first things I advise to check.
- so the difference that you see with the voltage is that it changes with the current - the most significant of which is the headlights.
So I suspect this problem may not be so much on the positive side, but actually on the return side.
You can validate this by checking the same voltage locations but this time wrt battery +ve.
i.e. if everything remains the same, you would expect to see 0V then with signal fuse removed, 11V then with headlight fuses removed, 0V (or close enough) - yes?
If however you see OV in all cases, that says it is the return side that is the problem.
(As a EE I know you will follow this)

Now - a very weak point in this harness is that ALL the return current (with the exception of the starter) goes through a small gauge wire - if you follow from the battery -ve terminal, there should be a large gauge wire going to the engine ground and a smaller black/white wire that goes to an in-line single conductor connector. That connector is a very common failure point, subject to burning/melting.

Do the voltage test again with reference to battery + and see what you get
 

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Hey guys, I searched briefly on Google but couldnt find what I was looking for..
theres your problem right there :laugh stop searching google and use the search function on TLZ instead. Theres heaps of threads on this. its a fairly commom TLR thing. i had the same problem and bent666 and numerious others as well. it usualy comes down to the white/clear conector in the front left hand side of the bike or the starter relay above the battery. check chucks site as well theres a good wright up on this.
 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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Reading your initial post again, I see that the battery is relocated.
So check out how the PO re-routed the negative connection. The +ve would be fairly straight forward to the starter relay, but the -ve needs to go to both the engine grounding post and also that black/white connector I mentioned above. That is critical.

Regarding the connection at the starter relay, the power for the main system comes off the red wire - it is not switched by the relay, just an internal connection via the 30A fuse. What is important there is that the connector plug and socket on the relay assembly is not arced or oxidized.
Also as TomT suggests, could be the main interconnect plug at the front end.

Because of the battery relo, I'm expecting the problem in the return side. But certainly worth checking those other locations.
 

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Check this 4 pin plug on the starter solenoid too. All bike power runs through the 30A fuse. It's a common one for knocking out all the electrics.

Unplug it and inspect.

 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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Got any update for us thormx538?

Inquiring minds need to know! :devious
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey guys,

Been swamped at work, so I didn't have a chance to play around until today. I turned the key on, and as I expected -- nothing.

I removed the left fairing, pulled the plug to that HID ballast, and propped the gas tank up. At this point, I turned the key to ON again for shits and giggles, and what do you know, it turned right on :banghead

I flipped the key on/off a few times, and played around with all of the wires I could get my hands on to see if I could cause the anomaly again, but of course, it continued to turn on every time I turned the key.

At this point, I put the gas tank back down, and started the bike up. Started right up, ran fine, and sounded normal. I shut the kill switch off, and turned the ignition key off. However, when I tried turning it back on, the bike was completely dead (and has been since).

I was unable to locate that white/black connector that the battery GND should be connected to. Battery VCC goes right to that starter solenoid. Upon re-inspection, the 4 wire connector for the solenoid as Steve posted looks pretty haggard on my bike, but they *seem* like they're making contact. Turning the ignition on and applying pressure to the wires has not proved fruitful, so I don't think this is the sole issue. I'm leary about pulling the wires out of the plug since I don't have a pin inserter.

I'll completely remove the tank tomorrow so I can get a better look at the top of the engine and hopefully track down that mysterious white/black connector and get a visual confirmation on the battery GND routing. In the mean time, can someone please shoot me a link to the write-up that Tom mentioned?

Thanks again guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Also, my battery drained down from 12.1V down to about 5V in the ten days or so that I didn't work on it. I checked the leakage current with the ignition off, and it was fairly negligible ( < 1mA as spec'd in the manual).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looks like that Power Connector fix should do the trick. It's late here now so I'll do that tomorrow after work and let you know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Back to the drawing board. Soldered everything up, but no go. Its a short between Y/B and Y/G -- is this correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Main fuse is that 30amp on the solenoid relay isn't it? It's intact. And the battery is charged, with 12.11V across the 2 terminals at the solenoid block that connect to the battery.
 

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next connection to check is the clear/white one under the farinf towards the left front of the bike. a lot of people have to solder that one 2.

i would get the battery load tested. they can show 12V just sitting there but second they have a load applied they act dead. if you have another bike swap battterys and see what happens.
 
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