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TLR adjustable exhaust hangers

2K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  vandriver 
#1 ·
I have a few sets left over from the group buy.

Black or silver anodized

$81+$6US



A few pics from the last batch, about 2 years ago.
They let you cut off the ugly cast hangers, but still maintain the stock position, but since they are adjustable, you can finally get your pipes level. No plans to make them again.


 
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#7 ·
I'm gonna put myself in the poor house buying all this good stuff. Who cares I will still have the bike. I'll take a set in black please van. I just don't remember what your paypal is.
 
#9 ·
Vandriver,

Sorry to bother you but, what size drill bit did you use to install the TLR adjustable hangers? I misplaced the sheet you sent with the hangers and only remember something like a "U" bit. No one at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, or Harbor Freight Tools knows what that is. They only have sizes 1/4, 7/32, 1/8, 15/34...etc.

Also, this extra screw you had in the bag to my recollection is suppose to open the mount bolt inside the frame. Is that what the purpose is?

By chance if you have that instruction sheet available to email. My address is NOBILL1398@aol.com

I appreciate any assistance you can give so I can finish this project. Thanks!
 
#10 ·
It was posteed in the GB thread

Instructions
I would hold the new brackets up to the OEM cast on pieces and get a general idea of where the holes will be drilled for the nutserts. ( make a few marks before you start cutting and drilling)

Cut the castings off. The welds are different on every subframe. I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, then a file, then a palm sander. I wanted the subframe to look perfect. Becareful and go slow. You could use a dremel cutoff wheel, it will just take longer. Get the fiberglass reinforced wheels if using a dremel. The free ones in the plastic tube suck.

Now I would only drill one hole from the marks you previously made. Install the insert and the bracket and find the location for your second hole. That should make sense and stop you from drilling at the wrong spacing.

As far as the insert goes I would say to use a "U" drill or a 9.4 metric. This should leave the hole a little on the tight side, which you can always tweak bigger, but you really want to pound the insert in to the subframe. The knurls on the insert will grip the aluminum and stop it from turning when you try to expand it, inside of the subframe. Too loose and it will just spin. That is why I would not try and use a 3/8" drill bit, which you might have handy. You could just be screwing yourself with oversized holes. If you have time you can always coat the inserts with red loctite before you hammer them in. Let it harden before you try and expand the insert.

To expand it, I provided an extra mounting bolt and a oversized nut. Place the nut against the insert and thread in the bolt, till hand tight. Hold the nut with a wrench and tighten the bolt with an allen tip, on a socket wrench. This lets you provide pressure against the nut and insert while you are tightening the bolt, in hopes of the insert not spinning. The insert is aluminum, so it should expand easily.

I provided 4 1/8"spacers to put between the insert and the hangers, some of the welds cam be thick in this area and this gets the hanger up and away from the welds.

Bolt on the hangers in whatever position works best for you. You should be able to finally get your pipes level.
 
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