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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Guys, is FI lamp on guage cluster is responsible how TL engine is works? Probably my cluster is broken ( FI lamp is a little brights, sometimes is again of and after few minutes again on). When it starts, my engine has na full power . At idlle speed everything is correct,but when I ride there is no power.
 

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then you need to bridge the dealer mode plug and read the error codes off the cluster.

search dealer mode
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This bike doesn’t have any fault codes. Probably guage cluster is bad( Fi lamp is creazy and sometime is little turn on, sometimes not) Is it possible that when I disconect guage cluster when bike is working, engine will stalls??? Has this bike safe mode when lamp is on ?
 

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It's hard to understand what you're saying. I'm guessing English is your second language, so I sympathize. Still, we need to try and clarify your symptoms.

Are you saying you have electrical power (cluster lights on) and bike runs good, and then suddenly you lose electrical power (cluster lights off) and bike won't run?


Can you post a video of the problem on YouTube and post the link to it in here?


NOTE: Under your rear seat is a white connector with two wires running into it (black/white) & (red & white). It may have a black rubber cap on it. Stick a wire into the two slots, then turn the ignition key on. If you have power, then you'll see codes flashing on the cluster where it says FI. That's what Stu means by "bridging" dealing mode. Just in case there was some confusion there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It’s true, Im not English Man 🙂... we already checked fault codes( c-00). Injectors are in good condition, oil pressure also. All sensor was checked agreed with service manual book. Please keep focus how FI lamp indicated by guage cluster can flow on engine works (we gues, that guage cluster is broken and indicate FI lamp not necesary without any reasons). About engine works... When I start up the engine FI lamp is indicated and shining in 50% but engine at idle speed, works good. Durning warm up the engine FI lamp starts to shining stronger but engine also works ok. All problems are in this both cases only durning ride. Above 6krpm want’s run dynamically ( fuel pressure also ok). Is it normal, that if engine works and I will disconect guage cluster engine stalls ?
 

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When the FI light shows you need to put it into dealer mode (show fault codes) WITHOUT removing the key from the ignition or turning the ignition off. Remember these are older machines now so don't have the facility of recording their fault codes. Ride around for a while with the bike in dealer mode and then report back.

If the light comes on then, but it still shows C-00 then it could be the oil pressure thats at fault. The FI light does more than one thing.
 

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Do you understand what he's saying Crash? I'm still confused.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fuel pressure is ok, collant temp is ok, injectors are ok. All sensors are checked and even chanched with sensors from other bike. So what’s more is responsible, that fi lamp is ON ( sometimes is shinig a little bit, sometimes much lighter)- Very strange right??? Durning ride bike looks like ignition timing was not correct above 6krpm. Maybe it is important, I have Boss exhaust and bike can’t prepare correct fuel mixture ?
 

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Ah... I see where you're going with this now Crash. Oil pressure teetering between low and normal limits will cause fluctuations in a warning light's (oil pressure) illumination levels, and also affect performance based on said illumination level.

In a nutshell, when the bike is at idle the oil is calm and the pressure is likely right at the low/normal boundary. Hence the FI light is dim and the bike runs okay. The moment the bike is put in motion the oil begins moving around and pressure drops. Hence the bright FI light and loss in power. It can't be an electrical short or lose wire, because a false negative wouldn't affect performance. All the symptoms point towards mechanical. Assuming it has the correct level of (clean) Oil, maybe the pump going out? Gummed up oil pickup tube perhaps?

Good catch Crash.
 

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Test this by disconnecting the oil pressure sensor found on the right of the engine just to the right and below the oil level window. All you should need is a cross head screwdriver or a small socket to disconnect the sensor wire.
 

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Test this by disconnecting the oil pressure sensor found on the right of the engine just to the right and below the oil level window. .. .
...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for answers. We will disconnect oil sensor and check oil pressure. Btw oil is new and level is correct. I will inform tomorrow how Fi lamp looks like after disconnect.... if this lamp is not connected with loosing power about 6krpm ( sometimes when you accelerate, everything going ok, about 6krpm engine is smother but after few second can go untill „red” rpm). What’s are next steps to check ? in your opinion
 

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Oil pressure isn't about age of oil or volume persay, its relating to the pressure (high or low) generated by the oil pump. If memory serves me the TL warning light comes on to alert that the pressure is outside its normal range, either too high or too low.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
1) We will check oil pressure agreed with manual service
2) We will disconnect Oil sensor and check FI lamp reaction.

I will inform you about the progress... But I think it does not explain the choking engine, it looks, that they are two different problems.
1- Fi lamp,oil sensor problem or oil pressure
2- Choking engine at high rpm- only during big accelerate. (I think if oil pressure would be weak this engine would be seized a lot of km ago).

Otherwise... compression is above 12,5 BAR- new piston rings. We checked surfaces of the crankshaft- it looks perfect without any clearances and scratches.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Oil level and pressure is ok. We checked coolant temp. sensor, and probably doesn’t work correct. Is it possible, that it is responsible for bad engine works???
 
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