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Firstly let me say hello :).

I currently have a bandit 1200 (previous bike was a 2005 zx6r), im selling it as i fancy a meaty twin, ive been doing alot of reading and it seems the TL is favoured over the SV1000...when the suspension has been sorted out. From my understanding i want to be buying a 1997 as they were the full power models ? Was the 98 much slower ? I have access to a dyno for free so whichever TL i end up with will be getting a PC3 and a custom map.

I just want to know if theres anything i should look out for really, what sort of milage should i be looking at etc.

Thanks in advance guys.
 

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I don't know if the later ones were "much" slower... but the original ECU and mapping from the 1997 S was the "faster" one as they detuned it a bit with the 98 and later after the 3500-4500 "stutter" issues they had. I'm sure you can have any year mapped to pep it up but other members will let you know the specifics, as I'm not even close to knowledgeable in that area.

I may not be an expert on how much they changed them from 98 on but I do have an original 97S ECU with Mattthehatt's TRE on that makes the bike SCREAM! (and NOT stutter).
 

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They were not faster, different map maybe. 97 was a bit of a problem model as I understand , that is why they changed / upgraded 98 onwards. One thing was that the thermostat was wrongly positioned and fed wrong info to the ECU making it run on the cold map all the time.

The Ring In can tell you exactly what the diffs are.

Check for frame cracks, leaky clutch pushrod seal, front fork seals and rear dampner linkage bolts. Fire it up and take it for a ride. Idle should be at 1200 rpm.
The bikes can go on for high mileage, depends on what type of miles they were, the "all on the back wheel" type would really suck.

Welcome to the ZONE

PS, why get an S when the R's are totally Righteous!
 

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The '97 was the first year and does have a jewel of an engine/ECU combo if you don't mind doing the coolant temp sender relocation and a yosh box remap to cure your stumbles. It has an explosive power delivery like a big dirt bike...The '97 also has all the problems that were addressed in later years.

The later years have a more refined power delivery and some important upgrades phased in, steering damper, upgraded fuel tank, larger output shaft bearing, revised fork internals, 6 bolt clutch, stronger cases, I believe a frame revision, relocated coolant temp sender, revised crank breather setup, revised intake ports, refined ECU, and some other details...A rather long list.

If I were buying one for a daily driver I would get the latest model year you can find... I'm not knocking the '97, I own one and am happy I do, but you owe yourself a note pad and some good time using this this site and the search button to know what you're getting into.
 

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.....

The later years have a more refined power delivery and some important upgrades phased in, steering damper, upgraded fuel tank, larger output shaft bearing, revised fork internals, 6 bolt clutch, stronger cases, I believe a frame revision, relocated coolant temp sender, revised crank breather setup, revised intake ports, refined ECU, and some other details...A rather long list. ...
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:stupid

Plus different engine breather set-up, oil pump, crank oiling (from both sides not just one).

Besides changing the coolant sensor loaction, they changed the thermostat, added a restrictor in the front head, added a cold bypass to the water pump too.
 

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Welcome, making the right choice.

Personally, I would'nt care how better the SV was (should have been) , it still looks crap! Plus my 97s romps away from them.

In the UK weather, your probabaly have more crappy wiring problems than anything else, no matter what year.

I'd buy the best cared for/original example I came across (ideally with an owner that been running with plenty of slack in the chain to avoid output bearing failures) .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
cheers for the replies guys, i think the best option for me to do would be to buy as later model as my budget can afford, ive read something about not using carbon cans on the TL's ?
 

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+1 to getting an R! As for cans...Ive never heard anything against carbon cans on a TL??
 

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Ahh he's quick to learn too
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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No not TLR! TLS ftw. TLR is like a fat black woman, similar arse too ;).
:laugh Love your style, you'll fit in well here :hail

As far as performance goes the TLS engines internally are near as dammit identical in that respect (except the inlet port shape), if you want the best of both both worlds go for the later stronger 99> TLS engine and fit a 97 ECU :thumbup
 

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you'll whichever you buy, it's a tl V twin so it's laughs all the way. as all have said go fer the latest one you can get hold of, generally wot you see is wot you get (including the owner!)
sam i didn't think the 97 ecu worked with any of the others cos as far as i know you can't put the later ecu on the 97. maybeeees eys is wrong!
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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sam i didn't think the 97 ecu worked with any of the others cos as far as i know you can't put the later ecu on the 97. maybeeees eys is wrong!
Certainly can, I run a 97 ECU on my leter bikes :devious

It's only the TLS/TLR that aren't interchangable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is there any reason why all my posts keep being edited by " SnailsPace ". ?

And Sam, would it matter if i went for say a 99 TLS if i was going to whack a PC3 on it anyway ? I plan on writing a custom map for it and having plenty of dyno time to get it just right. Would aim for as close to 13:1 across the rev range as possible.
 
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