Tl1000R overheating

Ok, I have another thermostat. I want to test it before I put it in though.

Anyone know what temp it should open at?

about 85C

I put a 91C in mine:thumbup

its usually stamped on the rim

+1

I also put a 195F thermostat in the TLR. It runs at a steady 191F on the gauge, and it keeps it from falling back into the "cold map" zone (176F and below) - especially during winter.

I tested the new (used) thermostat that I had laying around and it opens at around 180 (82c).
I took the existing one out of the bike today, replaced it with the new one....and the battery died so I could not start it to test it.

I did however test (in a pot of water) the one that came out of the bike and although it did not open untill 200f......it did open......

fingers crossed that this solves the problem......

Any progress on this?

Well. I guess it is progress... It was NOT the thermostat.

Now I have changed....

Both fans
ECU
Temp sensor in the lower rad
Temp sensor in the thermostat housing
Thermostat

What's next??
I am out of ideas.

OK, I must admit, I thought a sticking thermostat was the issue for sure. :confused Could there be anything else that is inhibiting the circulation of the coolant? Not likely, I suppose, but could the impeller on the water pump be slipping?


Aside from that, this comment you made a few days ago has me confused.

SnailsPace said:

If I short the terminals in the plug to the lower rad sensor the fans do not come on.

......

Click to expand...

Is this still the case? You cannot force the fans ON?

With the key ON, and the terminals in the connector to the radiator sensor bridged. The fans should run. And they should run until the battery goes flat. The engine does not have to be running, and there are no other control circuits or switches involved in the OEM fan circuit. Ian, if your fans don't run under these conditions then it is a simple matter of consulting the schematic and locating the open (or poor connection) in the circuit.

I'm sure you are frustrated. You have already done quite a bit in chasing this problem. Don't throw in the towel just yet.

I will check that again tomorrow when I get to work. :thumbup

Six5 said:

Is this still the case? You cannot force the fans ON?

Click to expand...

Ok, I just shorted it with a wire, with the ignition on, and the fans ran.

So either when I did it last time, the battery was flat, I didn't have the key on or there is a loose wire somewhere.

A loose wire or poor connection is possible.
Once you are satisfied that the fan circuit is intact and reliable, then the next step is....... figure out why the coolant is not circulating through the radiator as it should.

I think it is going through the rads...the rads are getting hot.

Apparenty, not hot enough. As The Ring-In mentioned earlier, when the fans come ON the lower radiator is cooling too quickly and allowing the fans to turn OFF, while the hot coolant in the heads is just sitting there getting warmer and warmer. That's what the sensor in the thermostat housing is indicating.

If you can run the engine while watching the coolant through the radiator cap opening, you should see the coolant vigorously moving once the thermostat opens up.

There has to be an explanation for this. :confused Based on what you have done so far, a coolant flow restriction sounds like the most reasonable cause.

The thermostat is opening. I am 100% sure of that. I put it in a pot of cold water and heated it up with a thermometer in it.
I then took it out of the pot and watched it close, put it back in and watched it open....it works.

I am thinking that I have a wiring issue.
The next thing I am going to try is to get the bike to 218 and then run the fans manually by shorting the connector and see if the temp comes down....

SnailsPace said:

The next thing I am going to try is to get the bike to 218 and then run the fans manually by shorting the connector and see if the temp comes down....

Click to expand...

Ok, so I did this.... the bike cools down just fine and the fans stay on as long as I short the plug.
Now, when I short the plug, this will use all of the electrical system required to run the fans except for the switch in the lower rad.....correct?
So, if that is the only part left out of the equation, does that mean that the switch is faulty (I have changed it, but I replaced it with a used one...it could be faulty too)?

SnailsPace said:

Ok, so I did this.... the bike cools down just fine and the fans stay on as long as I short the plug.
Now, when I short the plug, this will use all of the electrical system required to run the fans except for the switch in the lower rad.....correct?
So, if that is the only part left out of the equation, does that mean that the switch is faulty (I have changed it, but I replaced it with a used one...it could be faulty too)?

Click to expand...

Your test basically proves the integrity of the fan circuit. :thumbup That's good.

Yes, the fan switch is still in question. However, to have two thermo-switches fail in the same manner is unlikely - but not impossible. If you want to replace the switch with a third, that's your call.

On the other hand, the switch may be working fine, and the real problem is poor coolant circulation. (see post #32)

If you could measure the temp of the coolant in the radiator, that would be ideal. Then you could see the actual temp where the fans are switching on and off. In the real world, you could get access to a infrared thermometer. Then you could monitor the temp of the radiator as the fans cycle. That would verify what is actually going on in the temperature realm.

You're almost there....

I could tape a thermometer to the side of the rad...good enough?
I can tell you that you can touch them but they are too hot to be able to leave your hand on them for more than a split second.

I have a few switches, so changing them is no issue and no expense.

Oh....and thank you for the help.
Without it I would have lost my cool by now! :lol

SnailsPace said:

I could tape a thermometer to the side of the rad...good enough?
.....

Click to expand...

Good enough for an experiment. :thumbup

SnailsPace said:

Oh....and thank you for the help.
Without it I would have lost my cool by now! :lol

Click to expand...

Sometimes I think I just confuse the issue, but eveyone seems to tolerate it, so I'm happy to contribute to the chaos. :laugh

if the thermostat is working and this is the situation I would suggest the impellor is not utrning in the water pump.

take the outer housing off and check.