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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks

This is a long shot before I put it up for sale and I hope some of you will be able to help me...

My raptor thou is having running problems under 82 degress where it will run rough and violently lurch at about 3000rpm in the first couple of gears... We've checked the clutch switch (cheers Wreckah :) ) and cleaned up any wires we could see and it's still terrible. If it ever cools below 82 degrees, like if it's raining, it's like riding a kangaroo and is quite dangerous really. I'm really losing patience with it and am at the point where I want to sell it. Dealer mode says there's nothing broken but we're thinking that something is going wrong in the temperature sensor...

Well, my hubby has been having a think and was wondering about trying to trick the bike into thinking it's warmed up when it's not. He needs to know where exactly the temperature sensor is, and if anyone has any temperature-resistance tables so he has a starting point.

His thought is that is it goes higher resistance when it's hot we can add a resistor in-line to tell it it's hotter than it really is (with a switch somewhere for cold starts) and that will stop the cold-running problem. If it goes lower resistance as it warms up he can put a switch in-line to tell it when it should be warmed up and it won't go back to 'cold-running' mode if it cools down in traffic at all.

Is this likely to work, or am I just p1ssing in the wind and should just sell it before it gets even worse.

This really is my last resort! Please help, because I'm really hating the bike right now

Amanda
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Amanda, if it was a TLS I would say the symptoms you describe are the front coil/moisture combination, weak spark at low revs causes the lurching and the higher engine temps keep it dryer.

TLS's are prone to coil/plug cap failure especially here in the wet UK, the front wheel chucks water straight at it.

Try unscrewing the front cylinder plug cap off the lead, cut about 10mm off the coil lead/wire and rescrew back on. Make sure that everything is dry and squirt a little WD40 into the cap before screwing back onto the lead.

If that doesn't cure it then the coil might have started to break down. Ask about as plenty of people will have spare ones from all the part outs :devious
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Fiche-man,

Thanks for getting back to me. It's been doing the poor running problem in both wet and dry conditions, but in the wet it cools it down more so it shows up more which is why we think the temp sensor is doing something funny. Once it's above 82 degrees it's perfect! We changed the plugs last week, thinking it could be that, and the back plug was really oily and the front one was dry. There's been no change in behaviour since changing them. I've had the wet running problem before, and solved that with silicone grease around the plug lead/cap join, and unblocked the drain hole and had no probs after that.

Cheers

Amanda
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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I think 82 degrees is about the temperature that the ECU comes off it's choke map and changes to the normal running temperature map.

Not sure what else to try, could be a faulty ECU or another sensor. The manual gives readings for checking all the sensors.

You could measure the resistance of the coolant sensor like you say and drop in a kettle of boiling water and make a note of what the resistance changes too and replace the sensor with that value resistor.

Unfortunately it is only masking the real problem, but if it stops you selling it then give it a try :devious

Cheers

Sam
 
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hi amanda,

don't you sell it now! :rant we'll work it out, and it'll run smoothly again. :yes

if you need any parts (like a front spark plug wire, or a temp sensor), just gimme a yell, and i'll post them to you :)

changing the spark plug wires is a bitch though, quite a lot of wrenching involved (i've done it a couple of months ago...)

cheers, and good luck
jan
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Just noticed your not far from Ian (TLMonkey)

He's got a raptor and I'm sure he wouldn't mind swapping ECU's and other bits to help scource the problem ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cheers guys :)

Fiche-man and Wreckah - do you happen to know where the temp sensor is on these things?

I did put it into dealer mode, but apparently nothing is wrong with it :O It's a liar! Even if changing the resistor just masks the problem, I don't mind because it'll be rideable then. Right now it's just awful :rant I PM'ed a guy on the raptor chapter that had exactly the same thing happen to his one but it wasn't good news - it got worse and worse until it wouldn't start and 2 mechanics couldn't diagnose the fault:coocoo Gah!!

If I sell it you can have first refusal Jan :devious

Amanda
 

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Discussion Starter #8
fiche-man said:
Just noticed your not far from Ian (TLMonkey)

He's got a raptor and I'm sure he wouldn't mind swapping ECU's and other bits to help scource the problem ?
I'm not far from Ian and Debs either (they live about a mile from my bruv...) That could be a big help.

You guys are the best :hail
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Amanda M said:
do you happen to know where the temp sensor is on these things?
Only the early TLS had the sensor in the radiator, after that it was moved to the thermostat housing to give a more acurate temperature reading.

I guess the raptor will be the same.

It's in between the V of the cylinders under the throttle bodies/airbox.

You might be able to see it from the R/H side of your bike through the frame spars, usually has a green wiring connector on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Fantastic. I had a feeling it'd be in there somewhere. That gives me a starting point anyway :)

Cheers

Amanda
 

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Amanda M said:
I'm not far from Ian and Debs either (they live about a mile from my bruv...) That could be a big help.

You guys are the best :hail
Would be more than happy to help in any way possible Amanda.

Sorry to hear you're having trouble but lets try and sort it before you go ahead and sell :)
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Just checked the TLR manual

The resistances are as follows :-

20 Deg C = 2.45 KOhm
50 Deg C = 0.811 KOhm
80 Deg C = 0.318 KOhm
110 Deg C = 0.142 KOhm
130 Deg C = 0.088 KOhm

Should help which resistor to buy. I would guess about 0.2 kOhm
 

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The manual has some values in it. Resistance gets lower as temperature gets higher. Slip a 270 ohm resistor in place of the Engine coolant sensor for a temperature between 80 & 110C.

4-41 in the TLS manual, you can download it from the file vault.

20C = 2.45K ohm
50C = 0.811K ohm
80C = 0.318K ohm
110C = 0.142K ohm
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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:doh Sam searches pdf's faster than me :laugh
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Steve TLS said:
:doh Sam searches pdf's faster than me :laugh
:laugh I was expecting you to squeeze your post just in front of mine been an administrator :laugh


.
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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I wish. :) I would have if I could have.
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Must be a man thing, we don't like to see a Damsel in distress :lol


.
 

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Amanda M said:
:hail You guys are the best. Thank you for all your help. I'll let you know how we get on with it:)
Same goes for me amanda,
pop down if you wanna borrow/swop sensor's/ecu around:)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
:bounce Cheers Debs and TLmonkey :) I will see what happens with this sensor botch thing with the resistors and may well be round to check ECUs :)

Thanks again!!
 
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