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Time for a mulligan, let's try again.

3458 Views 43 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Felipe
Ok so here goes; I'm a recent first time TLS owner so be gentle. I need to pull the right crank case cover. I don't want to just jump in head first. With my luck I'll pull the cover and bearings and other bits start falling out. I already did that on the left side. Took me 10 minutes to figure out where the small starter spacer bearing came from. I don't want any suprises and I don't want to even remotely risk making a mistake that could effect valve timing, or water/oil pump operation. If someone wouldn't mind runing down the basic safe procedure for removal I would be forever in your debt. I'm guessing I will start with the water pump? After pump is out, what's next?
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yeah waterpump first

then if you really want to be picky clutch cover then the casing

no nasty surprises really and nothing should fall out if it does you have a problem
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The best way is to go to Click here and download the service manual. :thumbup
Thanks guys I really do appreciate the help. I'll defiantly look at the service manual. I just want to get first hand knowledge. The manual won't necessarily point out any possible hiccups or small details that may save me a headache later. I know I'm kind of being anal about the details I just don't want jump in head first without checking the depth so to speak. I don't want to get in a rush or get in over my head. This bike has been kept in near new condition, it's 100% complete and dealer serviced. I can't afford dealer service but I can take my time, ask lots of questions, and do the repairs correctly. I have all winter to diagnose and decide how I need to proceed based on that diagnosis. It's great that their is a community forum exclusively dedicated to TL owners. I can totally understand why, this is an amazing bike. I'm fortunate to have found an outstanding copy to call my own. Every article I've read has nothing but prase for the bike. It was defiantly a game changer.
Ok so I pulled the water pump housing and pulled the bolt from the impeller but it doesn't seem to want to come off. Is their a trick to getting the impeller off?
I wasn't asking u. Haven't u annoyed enough people yet. U always seem to have a comment but u don't ever have anything to say.
I thought about a pully/harmonic balancer puller but their is nothing for the press bolt to push against. I haven't really tried much to get it off. I don't know if it spins off or pulls off so I didn't do anything. I don't want to f it up. Any help would be much appreciated. I'm thinking of making small wedges. Perhaps I'll see if the manual shows how it is secured
Heat huh? Thanks for the heads up. No u didn't answer me but u did answer someone else and the search option works great here. Lmao!
Yes it pulls off you may need to twist it back and forth to loosen it a little heat helps too
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Thanks Stu. I appreciate it man. Your a true gentleman unlike some people. Ijs
I wasn't asking u. Haven't u annoyed enough people yet. U always seem to have a comment but u don't ever have anything to say.
i'm a very litteral person

and I love F'ing with people too...........

I answered your question.

go back and read your post........

if you ask the correct question I will answer it with the correct information.

BTW they are keyed they don;t twist off...

but you're on the right track.
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I hear ya man. I finally got it off. Ended up breaking a blade off the impeller but that's the least of my troubles. What I want to do now is determine where the engine is locked at. I think it's the cam/cams that are locked up as the crank case was full of oil when it locked. So the only way I know to determine what's locked is to isolate the crank from the cams so each will turn independently. To isolate the right side I was planning on pulling the cam chain sprocket put it won't slide past the outer sprocket on the crank and it appears the chain wants to slid out with the cam sprocket so I guess I'm gonna try to pull the crank sprocket. I marked where the sprockets are now incase the shaft does turn I can set the timing back how it was. I just gotta go get a 36mm socket and a pair of spring clip pliers.

and for reasons I wont go into.

just strip the motor from the heads down to the cases. its the path of least damage that you can do.
and trust me if you find a way to spin the motor out of time to the cams you WILL do damage.
You keep talking about stripping the motor like only an idiot would rebuild a LOCKED UP ENGINE! First off I never said anything about striping it. I said I am going to find out where the lock is. If you don't like my method of diagnosing and you don't have a better way then just please quit posting in my threads. I appreciate the bump and all but I've seen enought people here that will help so I don't need your "don't have shit to add" ass up in my thread. Thanks
and trust me if you find a way to spin the motor out of time to the cams you WILL do damage.
Well no shit Sherlock! I'm not planing on turning it over dumb ass, I only need to know if it moves PERIOD! If the crank moves even the slightest little bit then it's not locked. I only need to see if it will turn a 1/4 turn and back by hand. Same goes for the cam shafts. It they turn even a little then they are not the problem.
I;ve seen the million word diatribes you've written so far.......

you've got the clutch case cover off at the expense of ****ing the waterpump.

If you know so much then get on with it.

cut the narcisistic / knowall presentation .

you know f' all or you 'd have it sorted.

As I said at the outset...........

ask the right question and I'll give you correct answer..... but my first appraisal was you are adept at providing screeds of data........

you have no ability to discern what is important and NO ability to interpret it in a meaningful diagnostic manner.

You will work out what the problem is............

but it will be the result of consequence not design.

But unfortunately your mental disposition will prevent you from realising that, and you will feel justified and vindicated at your efforts and results.

A little humility here would have this thing sorted a week ago.

but hell .......what do I know?
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Clearly u don't know shit cause u don't have shit to say. Let me guess, u know a way to snap your fingers and unlock an engine.? Can u do that from across the pond? It's quite clear that you would like to know more than you do. I'm sorry to say but there is NO way to determine if the top of the engine is locked or the bottom is locked other than how I have described. If you can turn camshafts without turning the crankshaft with the timing chains in place then not only are one bad ass but your God cause that's not gonna happen. Do you get off on trying to steer people in the wrong direction and just so u know, if I was like u and had nothing to do I would have "had it sorted" 2 weeks ago thank you but tools and time don't allow me to dedicate my ENTIRE life to play online. Also, I didn't realize that a single broke blade would effect my water pump impellers performance but regardless, I have already spent the $15 and got another one thanks for your concern. Do us all a favor and die.
if any part of the motor is locked then the engine requires a strip from the top down.

if the gearbox is locked then the motor needs a strip down from the top.............

if the starter motor drive assembly is locked then ....................

but ...................

refer to my previous posts

specifically the first one where I listed the likely culprits.

BTW you are doing a fine job of confirming my other criticisms of you personally.
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