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Discussion Starter #1
In 6th gear the other day cruising about 80mph....hammered it to make a pass without a downshift and....clutch slippage.....bogged down....no power....then it caught and went....

it's starting to accelrate rapidly....happening in all gears any time I go close to WOT

So.....should I put a stock one back in or get something aftermarket?

Parts prices?

Anything else that should be done when changing the clutch?
 

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So.....should I put a stock one back in or get something aftermarket?

Anything else that should be done when changing the clutch?

Not changing the whole clutch assembly..
If there is need to change something, it may be clutch plates only and of course a set of aftermarket springs, Barnett or EBC...
Actually, only the springs could cure your problem if your plates are not already toasted......
 

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Springs alone may fix the problem. Get some good aftermarket springs and give it a go before investing in a clutch.
 

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:stupid Almost certainly needs springs and nothing else. Mine's got 50k miles (much of which have been in stop and go traffic) on the oe clutch. It sliped badly at 7k miles, just as you describe - hit the gas, big slip, then around 8-9k it would hook up and go. I pulled it down, mic'd everthing, slaped in new EBC springs and have been good to go since.
 

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I think that N2Wheelies hit the nail on the head when he explained it to me: Suzukis with this kind of clutch are unusually sensitive to the critical pack thickness.

If you still have the stock finger-ramp tightener mechanism that increases the spring preload when delivering forward torque, then the clutch pack thickness while under spring pressure is very critcal to getting it to operate on the optimum portion of the ramp, across the correct range of the ramp. On most other bikes, if the pressure plate doesn't come off the hub when disengaged, and doesn't bottom when engaged, that's good enough. But on ours the pack thckness also determines where the fingers are initially on the ramps, the range of this tightener's operation, etc. That's part of why some slip then hookup...they start out on a portion of the ramp that's not at the correct slope.

I haven't confirmed this by inspecting much...'cause we both have the Brock spring-post base that eliminates the entire spring-post mechanism, with the penalty of stiffer slutch lever pull but the advantages of much more predictable high-power launches and the pack thickness is no longer critical.

Also keep in mind that the stiffer springs make the tightener mechanism actuate later, so if the pack thickness is wrong the better spings might just change a low-power slip-then-grab into a high-power slip=then-grab.

But if you get the pack thickness just right so it starts at the right part of the ramps, then Barnetts springs and stock plates in the late-model 6-spring clutch with the even later increased number of clutch plates seems to work well with the finger-ramp tightener mechanism even with modified engines.
 

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....do you still have a stock R hydrolic clutch?

If so, when was the last time you changed the fluid and what color is it now (coke colored = bad)?...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have roughly 8K miles indicated (but it's about 15% off from rear sprocket)....changed oil at 6K indicated.....have redline oil and a K&N filter lying around so I'll try that first....yes it is an R hydro clutch....don't know if everything on the inside is stock....been suprised a few times by unexpected aftermarket goodies I keep finding on it....

What do the springs (barnett?) run?

How bout the whole assembly stock?

Will update you guys once I do an oil change...
 

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springs are $10-$15
 

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I hopped on the TLZONE this morning to post the exact same question as EVILBLUE TWIN. My TLR did the same thing for the first time yesterday, ya gotta love the TLZONE forums.
 

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I just picked up a set off of bikebandit. I think they were like 12 bucks shipped. I am having the same problems. I should get them in this week and give it a go.
 

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Just going thru michael(EvilblueTLR) post if he had problem(slipping) or change the clutch plates and friction before i got it. Indeed he had problem(thats why im here in this thread) :laugh) Anyway fast forward it from 8k to 20k miles and this is what it looks like. I guessed this is still the stock clutch plates and friction. The plates has some blue coloring on it.




 

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Nah i dont want to be cheap so i order the plates and friction. I already have the barnett springs here but still decided to buy the kit. :)
 

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Yep, a simple oil change can make a difference. I don't know anyone with a water clutch by the way....

hydro --> water
hydraulic --> oil
 

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Hey nice to see you here and glad you still stop by :) Yeah i noticed the lil slip when i whacked the throttle it but didnt bother me that much. Last year was getting bad so i decided to replace it and buy a new one. Some suggest to do the barnett springs but after opening her up and measuring the thickness its already out of spec.


Yup it did that but once I changed the oil again it stopped doing it
 
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