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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello there, may be ignorant of me, and who knows maybe itll just be down right fun. Picked up an 02 1000r that has "seen some" you could say. Some scuffage, can tell it was rode, but only 24k on the odo. Live in the flat straight state of Nebraska, and once i mutter several choice words, and manage to knock my hands into everything unnecessary ill hopefully have her on the road come spring. How we sit- running good, idles good, even has great throttle response. Charging system is a bug, battery replaced (seller) new stator and r/r and gasket in the box waiting, and while ive had some experience with a 08cbr stator r/r, most of this will be completely foriegn to me. aside from the charging- clutch master cylinder is shot i believe. Seller had bled the clutch, good and tight, got to the house (hour and a peice) no pressure, fluid coming from what looked to me like the area the lever flexs, cup is dirty probably a good time for a rebuild anyways so the question there becomes, aftermarket? Oem 209 from Suzuki or 195 on bike bandit- am not opposed to that but if the combined wisdom of the community says "rebuild should fix it" ill just get a kit, may need a boot, and a pair of circlip pliers because god knows 20$ is worth 2 hours of cursing the ground.
Oh, and left rear turn signal stays solid. Ill admit to my lurking and say, while i cant say i wont do the same, i appreciate the "turn signal to license plate light" story. But lets be honest, before im done, thats probably the best thing ill do.
Maybe most people my age dont rememeber like i do, but i rememeber at 10 flipping through the magazines waiting on my mom to finish shopping, and the moment i knew i needed a sport- was when i saw the tlr's @*$"
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Whew- so the more i look the more im convinced i was meant to save this bike. Slave cylinder- holds fluid about as well as a bottomless cup- will likely get an oem assembly (think i saw one for 80ish on ebay) to go with the master cylinder rebuild kit thats on the way, plastics are all "there" minus some of the more important parts (most tabs seem to be cracked or broken) so who knows, it may get a new dress too. The more i look at the confounded wiring, the more relaxed i am with the idea that at 12 i didnt know how to properly make electrical connections, since it would seem some grown men struggle aswell- however i snapped a few more pics after dropping some more fairings- and believe me, im putting up all of them, even the ones that made me tear up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Slave cylinder went on my '02 as well, replaced with oem kit and been great since.

Good luck with the project.
Thankyou! Its been abit of a headspin for me, but theres no quit in me! Not to beg for information (but i am) in the event that my slave shim is fubar- ive seen some say it can be repaired with rubber cement as it doesnt serve the purpose of seal- just want to make sure i hadnt been sniffing paint- went ahead and found a good looking slave cylinder on ebay for 30, just doesnt come with the shim. The rebuild is about the same, but with the neglect this bike has seen, i imagine the newish housing will be worth the cost itself.
Ahh. Hopefully once the clutch is done, its charging system, blinker fix, and then dress up!
Can you tell im excited, im not hiding it well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update- blinker fixed as of today, got the new slave and master rebuilt and reduced about a lb of weight removing road grime (and a few rocks) hopefully nobody gets sick, and i was too excited to get the new one on, line bled and see how it shifts to take an after pic, but for you nasties out there pic to follow of the outer pushrod and what had made it in behind and around the slave. Hadnt removed the sprovket cover when i took it, but it did come off to better remove gunk aswell. Hopefully the stator is next weekends
65726
 

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Did you bybchance replace the oil seal that your clutch push tod goes throw? You may want to as thats a common leak point. Replace it with either a properly sized after market with double wipers or just use one for an sv1000 but dont teplace it with oem sibgle wiper jobbies. They just leak.

How you makin out so far?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you bybchance replace the oil seal that your clutch push tod goes throw? You may want to as thats a common leak point. Replace it with either a properly sized after market with double wipers or just use one for an sv1000 but dont teplace it with oem sibgle wiper jobbies. They just leak.

How you makin out so far?
Doing okay- had to pause for a minute while cash and family stuff is going on. Had an uncle getting over ventilator level covid. I Did not change that inner seal- havent seemed to have any problems from it as of yet, however im going to see if i can find a new "shim" for the slave and ill see what the part number for that inner seal is. I did check out the outer pushrod condition and it was great- not scratching or damage to be seen, i did see a threat about using a "felt tip" pin of a sort and making a modification, however my brain has been scrambled and i could be off the deepend on that one.
Waiting to drain the oil, pull the stator cover and get them both done at once. Repacing chain and sprockets, picked up all the needed sockets and preparing my 3ft breaker bar and wood block for the road ahead.

Question however- when i go to put the upper right fairing on, i know its kind of a "trunk" for wiring ect.. i feel like im missing something when i see what i precieve as "3 relays" and am unsure how they mount ive pulled up the service manual diagrams though, so maybe this will shed a little light.... Blinker switch on the handle bars still is acting a little funny. Think ill hose it with dielectric grease and if that doesnt fix it look for a preowned yellow plugged switch and let it be
Thanks for checking in!
 

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Yeah as far as where to put the slack from the wiring harness im afraid you got the erong guy. I just kinds have mine playing the "get'in where ya fit'in." Game but yeah if you have the fairings off i shmoots all my connectirs with die electric grease or no-lox. I find the ideal brand no-lox seems to work the best. Depending on how many miles are in the bike it might be a good idea to check the strainer for the trans. In the bottom of the motor towards the back theres a big allen i wanna say its a 7mm faces straight down. But once your oil is drained crack that open and if you have sn endoscope tske a peek in the and see if you go any goodies trspped in the strainer can be a good place for metal shaving to get caught and the sooner you find stuff like that the better.

The clutch push rod has a tendency to get gummed up with chain lube and from time to time it gets hung up and wont return to it normal position and your clutch feels slippy. And that seal leak i mentioned is more of a slow seepage type deal.

Oh and do yourself a favor if you olan on riding with the hump (who wouldn't rather ride with the hump) they tend to pop off while riding. So take some thin plastic coated steel braided cable and tether it to the sub frame. I actually plan on putting a hinge on the frontside of the hump then moving the latch to the back and that should eliminate this from ever hsppening again. As mine flew off and had it not been tethered my dumb ass buddy that was following too close would have eatin it at about 115mph. I imagine he would have looked something like when fabio got hit with a goose while ruding a rollercoaster. Thats incredibly obscure judt google it youll laugh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah as far as where to put the slack from the wiring harness im afraid you got the erong guy. I just kinds have mine playing the "get'in where ya fit'in." Game but yeah if you have the fairings off i shmoots all my connectirs with die electric grease or no-lox. I find the ideal brand no-lox seems to work the best. Depending on how many miles are in the bike it might be a good idea to check the strainer for the trans. In the bottom of the motor towards the back theres a big allen i wanna say its a 7mm faces straight down. But once your oil is drained crack that open and if you have sn endoscope tske a peek in the and see if you go any goodies trspped in the strainer can be a good place for metal shaving to get caught and the sooner you find stuff like that the better.

The clutch push rod has a tendency to get gummed up with chain lube and from time to time it gets hung up and wont return to it normal position and your clutch feels slippy. And that seal leak i mentioned is more of a slow seepage type deal.

Oh and do yourself a favor if you olan on riding with the hump (who wouldn't rather ride with the hump) they tend to pop off while riding. So take some thin plastic coated steel braided cable and tether it to the sub frame. I actually plan on putting a hinge on the frontside of the hump then moving the latch to the back and that should eliminate this from ever hsppening again. As mine flew off and had it not been tethered my dumb ass buddy that was following too close would have eatin it at about 115mph. I imagine he would have looked something like when fabio got hit with a goose while ruding a rollercoaster. Thats incredibly obscure judt google it youll laugh.
Searching for Fabio now, and betting on laughs- will definitely check into it- as far as miles go sitting at 25k
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
The clutch push rod has a tendency to get gummed up with chain lube and from time to time it gets hung up and wont return to it normal position and your clutch feels slippy. And that seal leak i mentioned is more of a slow seepage type deal.

Oh and do yourself a favor if you olan on riding with the hump (who wouldn't rather ride with the hump) they tend to pop off while riding. So take some thin plastic coated steel braided cable and tether it to the sub frame. I actually plan on putting a hinge on the frontside of the hump then moving the latch to the back and that should eliminate this from ever hsppening again. As mine flew off and had it not been tethered my dumb ass buddy that was following too close would have eatin it at about 115mph. I imagine he would have looked something like when fabio got hit with a goose while ruding a rollercoaster. Thats incredibly obscure judt google it youll laugh.
Oh- and while im thinking about it- in order to replace that seal- what should i equip myself with before hand? Looked at 3c in my manual and found little to not helpful information on removal- could call Suzuki i suppose and see what they say. I see what you mean by seepage. Ordered a endoscope- hopefully 8mm is small enough for her- just noticed where you said 7- so i might need to trade out the 8mm i ordered and use my brain
 

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Oh- and while im thinking about it- in order to replace that seal- what should i equip myself with before hand? Looked at 3c in my manual and found little to not helpful information on removal- could call Suzuki i suppose and see what they say. I see what you mean by seepage. Ordered a endoscope- hopefully 8mm is small enough for her- just noticed where you said 7- so i might need to trade out the 8mm i ordered and use my brain.

A tiny bit crocked when pressing in with you fingers to start is ok but a lot crocked do not send it like that pop it back out and retry
Removal is fairly straightforward just get a good sturdy pick or metal hook and go through the hole in the center and pop it out. Or what i usually end up doing it take a skinny flathead staying mindful not to gouge anything go through the centerand get under it and pry it out.
The clean the pocket well with alcohol or a bit of acetone being very careful not to get any acetone on any plsstic then put a bit of oil on the seal andvin the pocket just press it in with you fingers to get i started the use a socket thats as close to the same diameter as possible and tap it the rest of the wsy with a hammer.

If its a tiny bit cocked when you press in with your fingers thats ok but a lotcand you need to pop it out an try again. Other wise you will gouge the nitrile coating and it may not seal properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Removal is fairly straightforward just get a good sturdy pick or metal hook and go through the hole in the center and pop it out. Or what i usually end up doing it take a skinny flathead staying mindful not to gouge anything go through the centerand get under it and pry it out.
The clean the pocket well with alcohol or a bit of acetone being very careful not to get any acetone on any plsstic then put a bit of oil on the seal andvin the pocket just press it in with you fingers to get i started the use a socket thats as close to the same diameter as possible and tap it the rest of the wsy with a hammer.

If its a tiny bit cocked when you press in with your fingers thats ok but a lotcand you need to pop it out an try again. Other wise you will gouge the nitrile coating and it may not seal properly.
Thanks- im sure i can find a detailed thread, but a lot of people have a retaining plate (mine does not) and just wanted to be sure i was cooking with the correct substance. Went ahead and ordered a new outerpushrod too- for 11$, might aswell.
 

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Thanks- im sure i can find a detailed thread, but a lot of people have a retaining plate (mine does not) and just wanted to be sure i was cooking with the correct substance. Went ahead and ordered a new outerpushrod too- for 11$, might aswell.
Yeah i have 2 motors one has thecplate and the other doesn't not sure how much of a difference it makes to be honest with ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here is a guide to the push rod seal replacement with photos.
Handy, if you haven't done it yet. Or just use it as an alternate reference.

Clutch Push Rod Seal Fix
So im assuming without the plate you're essentially getting to skip the fabrication of the retaining plate? Looks like its all held together by the shim and slave cylinder if i see it correctly, ordered both will try it out- thankyou for the link!
 

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So im assuming without the plate you're essentially getting to skip the fabrication of the retaining plate? Looks like its all held together by the shim and slave cylinder if i see it correctly, ordered both will try it out- thankyou for the link!
Actually, the retaining plate does 'retain' the push rod seal. The fabrication shown in the link posted earlier is merely to make the original TL retainer fit around the SV1000 seal. There are two options available to you that require no fabrication. You can either buy the SV1000 retainer, or install the sv1000 seal backwards so that the elevated portion doesn't interfere with the TL retainer. Make sense?

20171013_113849 by Tony Six5, on Flickr

20171013_112854 by Tony Six5, on Flickr

The SV seal and retainer in place.
20171013_115832 by Tony Six5, on Flickr


I'm not sure which shim you are referring to, but the seal resides in a smoothbore in the engine case. There is no detent, lip, or groove to hold it in place. Thus, the retainer is somewhat necessary.

Also, it is possible to push the seal too far into the case. I did it. 🥴 So, be careful about that. I also had to use a gasket sealant around the outer edge to get a decent seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Actually, the retaining plate does 'retain' the push rod seal.



Also, it is possible to push the seal too far into the case. I did it. 🥴 So, be careful about that. I also had to use a gasket sealant around the outer edge to get a decent seal.
Thanks for the tip- the "shim i reference should be called a dust cover- sorry. It just seems like it does keep things inline aswell. 23166-02F20 part number for the "shim" ill take some pics as i break it apart. I pulled a fastball on myself today and made something easy hard-
 

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While im here ill ask as it seems to be in an odd location- maybe its just a fairing mount that ive yet to get to but seems oddly located
That threaded boss on the cylinder head is a motor mount boss. Since the front and rear heads are the same part, they both have machined motor mount bosses. However, they are only used on the front head. They are unused on the rear head, except to secure one of the vacuum dampers on the TLR (right side).
 
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