Do a search on "no start" or "cold start" and you'll have loads of points to check.
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Welcome to the Zone.
stuttering tl1000r
Hi to all..just got myself a 1998 yellow tl...story goes...bike had been stood for three years...bike started then fouled its plugs n wouldnt start..brought iridium oned and bike started no probs...just taxed it n tried a small run..bike really stuttering...this 1998 has a choke..turned it to full n bike run a little smoother but seemed to get to 90c very quick for a small run round the block...got back let it cool a little started up n it ticked over bad stalled n a little puff noise seem to come from under the tank...plugged battery in n its low so on charge at the mo...any ideas or advice before I line mr bike shops pockets..cheers
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Thanks for the answers...The bike seems to run better with the choke open full..Guessing its some form of fuel starvation or restriction as bike starts fine but is a bit burbly on tick over..Was told the bike had be stood for three years..Whats the best way to empty the tank or attempt to clean without stripping all down..
Thanks Again
Thanks Again
Siphon.
Then fill with fresh fuel and throw in some injector cleaner. Go out and thrash the nuts off it until the tank is down and refill. If its still stuttering then you can get into the messy stuff. Most likely you'll need a new filter. You might want to see what's nesting in the air filter while you are at it.
Mice in the ram air intakes can be sooooo inconvenient. :laugh
Forgot to say, if what comes out of the siphon has lots of particulates in it (eg rust) then obviously you'll need to clean the inside of the tank before you refill.
There are discussions on the best methods of doing this in the archives, be they mechanical ie chucking in a hand full of pebbles and shaking them around or chemical (my favourite) involving acids followed by drying agents.
Then fill with fresh fuel and throw in some injector cleaner. Go out and thrash the nuts off it until the tank is down and refill. If its still stuttering then you can get into the messy stuff. Most likely you'll need a new filter. You might want to see what's nesting in the air filter while you are at it.
Mice in the ram air intakes can be sooooo inconvenient. :laugh
Forgot to say, if what comes out of the siphon has lots of particulates in it (eg rust) then obviously you'll need to clean the inside of the tank before you refill.
There are discussions on the best methods of doing this in the archives, be they mechanical ie chucking in a hand full of pebbles and shaking them around or chemical (my favourite) involving acids followed by drying agents.
Hey all. Like to chime in on this. Just a bit ago i seemed to have the same problem, which then turned into a no start condition. Made the dealer switch and all, no codes. Assumed it was mechanical since there was no codes (REALLY SMART). Bought shim kit, good investment, re-checked valves and everything. Front cyl valve shims were in backwards and odd sizes on every valve. intake cam was retarded one tooth and clearances were just plain damn wrong. Rear plug was fouled out bad but not the front. Changed and made all the correct adjustments and still no start. I noticed a small drip on the floor but never really bothered with it. Long story short.................deep breath.....I decided to check where it came from, stator cover. Drained the oil, cracked the covers loose, removed the clutch slave to check its seal, all good there. Pulled the stator cover to remove the gasket and found the bracket that holds the wires in place stuck to the magnet, and no screw! Dont go "OH NO!" just yet. Got lucky, screw was in there too, plop plop fizz fizz. Now im saying thats your problem, im saying do a very good inspection, a "every bolt and nut possible inspection. My TLr sat for a long time too and when you ride a beast, that shakes the cream out of any woman, like these that has sat for a good long time, things come loose. Good luck Brother.
I think snowy called it. Gummed up from old fuel. You can also pull the return line and drain the fuel too.
Blks that's why we are friends. Even Shakespeare couldn't say it finer:
"shakes the cream out of any woman" :laugh :hail
Blks that's why we are friends. Even Shakespeare couldn't say it finer:
"shakes the cream out of any woman" :laugh :hail
Welcome mate. the lever on the left bar is a fast idle not a choke. it acts the same as opening the throttle.turn your tick over screw up a bit if it runs better with the lever open.
sounds to me like its just old fuel and a bit gummed up
as snowy said drain refill stick some injector cleaner in give it a good blast
then set the throttle position sensor and balance the throttle bodies
also where are you located
as snowy said drain refill stick some injector cleaner in give it a good blast
then set the throttle position sensor and balance the throttle bodies
also where are you located
Oh its not a choke. Well to be honest now thinking spark....I took the back ht cap off n cit back the ht lead..rescrewed on n took plug out..look black n wet..put plug back in started up n sounded better but after 2 mins tick over got irratic n bike was back fireing..guessing its a garage job...stu I live in Mansfield ........sorry forgot to add took fuel pipe off to drain into fuel can...checked fuel for any deposits but clear
the backfiring can be a sign of the TPS needs adjusting
same as backfiring through the airbox thats a sure sign the TPS is out
if its popping in the exhaust it could also be the rear exhaust gasket
has the bike got any mods? ie power commander? TRE? wiring all stock? all sensors and switches connected and not shorted?
same as backfiring through the airbox thats a sure sign the TPS is out
if its popping in the exhaust it could also be the rear exhaust gasket
has the bike got any mods? ie power commander? TRE? wiring all stock? all sensors and switches connected and not shorted?
Its got after market cans..no markings so dont know what make...no tre as I know also wouldn't know where to start with the wiring or switches. ..the bike does smell quite rich when running...my run out the other day could smell petrol quite strong
I would avoid a garage if you can as it will cost you loads for not a lot of work!!
do as much as you can first
also a lot of garages don't know these bikes like we do
do all the basics first there is loads of info on here to help you along the way
do as much as you can first
also a lot of garages don't know these bikes like we do
do all the basics first there is loads of info on here to help you along the way
Cheers stu...whats your advice...airfilter seems clean...petrol I took out the bike had no dirt at all...my best guess is maybe coils n leads...but could be paying for nothing if not...bike seems to start fine but after running for a short while it starts stuttering n mild back fireing then unless the idle lever on the handlebar set to full will stall.
The fuel run well out of the tank n now think its getting enough petrol but not burning it off.
The fuel run well out of the tank n now think its getting enough petrol but not burning it off.
to me it sounds like the TPS is out and needs adjusting up
download a manual and watch the tuning video
http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/26/74/
also stick it in dealer mode and see where the bar for the TPS is sitting when running and then when you raise the revs to 1400 rpm
http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/54/60/
download a manual and watch the tuning video
http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/26/74/
also stick it in dealer mode and see where the bar for the TPS is sitting when running and then when you raise the revs to 1400 rpm
http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/54/60/
Thanks for the heads up on the TPS think my problem will be the bike will not tick over at the 1200 rpm on thr vid....will look at dealer mode to see no other probs n give it a try.. cheers
You can still do a tps adjustment even if you are way out of whack.Thanks for the heads up on the TPS think my problem will be the bike will not tick over at the 1200 rpm on thr vid....will look at dealer mode to see no other probs n give it a try.. cheers
Fast idle your way to warm (hot map on the ECU)
At 1400 you should just be ticking to the top bar from the center bar. You should be able to basically 'hear' close to optimum.
You should be able to get off the fast idle cable at this point if you are close.
1200 rpms middle bar.
Fast idle to 1400 should flick to top bar.
You might not be able to hold idle right now because you are too far out of sync.
and I was simply agreeing with you! :cheersThat's what I was thinking rxf
Arthur
Knowing your tps is set correctly will rule that out one of the main factors why you can't hold idle...
..... took plug out..look black n wet..put plug back in started up n sounded better but after 2 mins tick over got irratic n bike was back fireing.......
......the bike does smell quite rich when running...my run out the other day could smell petrol quite strong
Arthurbear, you are clearly getting all the signs of a too rich fuel mix at idle. Maybe the ECM has been poorly flashed with a Yosh box, but more likely it is the TPS setting and lack of throttle balance causing the problem........bike seems to start fine but after running for a short while it starts stuttering n mild back fireing then unless the idle lever on the handlebar set to full will stall.
....
It starts OK, because it is rich (plus the ECM gives it an extra squirt during the start cycle), but it soon can't idle well because there is too much fuel coming in. Likely, the current TPS setting is telling the ECM to add fuel because it thinks the butterflies are open further than they actually are. The running improves when the fast idle lever is used because it allows more air in to offset the already rich mix.
That's my theory. :coocoo
Stu_m and rxf610 already had you on the road to recovery. I just wanted to boost my post count.......:laugh
:stupid .....You can still do a tps adjustment even if you are way out of whack.
Fast idle your way to warm (hot map on the ECU)
At 1400 you should just be ticking to the top bar from the center bar. You should be able to basically 'hear' close to optimum.
You should be able to get off the fast idle cable at this point if you are close.
1200 rpms middle bar.
Fast idle to 1400 should flick to top bar.
You might not be able to hold idle right now because you are too far out of sync.
stupid and one for stu-m)1 - 20 of 39 Posts
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