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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there

I’m new to the world of motorcycles and have been trying to get one for a year. I finally got my license and bike, a Tl1000s

So i rode it for a month and put 1200 miles on it:2finger.

Then i decided to put new oil in it. I am using Amsoil 10-40 full synthetic. (i think its the best oil money can buy but if its not please tell me and ill switch)

I got my torque wrench out and went for the drain bolt.........and striped it. (i kicked my own ass for about an hour.)

I went to a hardware store and got a 14mm 1.25 tap to trace out the threads but there was no hope. Then i talked to a friend and he said that i could JB WELD threads back in it. So after cleaning i put a layer of jb weld on it and let it dry. That is how the bike is right now.

I have since done tests on the JB weld and it can’t handle more than 5 foot lbs. Aint goin to cut it.

Also there is a intersecting hole in the drain pug hole in the case. This is also were oil comes out of.
So i don’t know if a helicoid or an insert will work because it would block that hole.

So here I am with a striped case with a lining of jb weld in the hole and a bunch of friends telling me 500 different ways to fix it.
I need info and help.

Thanks
 

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Would be interesting to see a pic of the "hole" you describe. I would think a Heli-coil would work... as the oil pick up is molded into the case and near the FRONT of the motor sump. As always the hard part is cutting the threads for the new coil to hold.Somone mentioned that tapping with your "tap" covered in grease to "catch" the burs would work. I have not had to do it so I cannot vouch for it. Hopefully someone can chime in soon. :cheers
 

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The hole you mention is there to allow the last drop of oil to drain from the sump. A helicoil will block that hole but the only result is you leave a bit of oil in the sump when you change it. Others have used this repair method with no problems. Oversize plugs are also avaiable to replace the stripped threads. These are usually self tapping so if you go that route make sure you use a lot of grease on the threads to capture the metal flakes made when cutting the new threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think i want to try an oversized plug because if it dosnt work i can move up to somthing bigger. However I cant seem to find a 14mm 1.25 thread in an oversized plug. I can get it in a 1.5 no problem. Since the plugs are oversized would the 1.5 cut its threads through the striped threads of the 1.25 or should i try somthing different.
 

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go with the 1.5 or go 9/16 o/s the next stage is to helicoil
 

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Try the oversize plug option first dude, if all else fails then go larger or helicoil it.
First option =less sworf. :thumbup
 

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go the smallest step first.

and use new gaskets every time!
 

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And for future reference, the torque value for the drain plug is 16.5 lb-ft. :thumbup
 

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I did the helicoil rightaway, with a tapered tap that guided itself into the hole. So far so good, didn't I love to see no little drips of oil seeping through (mine wasn't right to begin with). I used grease on the tap and my (long, thin) fingers to get the chips out.

And I never will change oil again without my torquewrench and new washers... take note:
And for future reference, the torque value for the drain plug is 16.5 lb-ft. :thumbup
 

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:stupid

Did the same to mine 12 months ago.

Helicoiled it, washed it through with some petrol- then fresh oil. Worked brilliantly!!!

Well Sam did all the work whilst I watched and drank his tea!! :hail
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK ill try smallest first and go with a 14mm 1.5 thread oversize and then if that doesn't work ill go bigger.

Just to let everyone know the plug strips at 25 foot lbs. I just thought that the previous owner had it really in there.

I did the researcher for all of you your welcome:shortbus:shortbus:shortbus
 

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Had this problem when I changed the oil the first time after buying my TLR. Read a lot on here and saw the tapered helicoil kits.
I used something like this
http://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/draper-screwing-tools-all-other/draper-expert-m14-125-spark-plug-helicoil-thread-repair-kit-44086.html
Spark plug repair kit M14 x 1.25
It doesn't have the tang like a normal helicoil which you have to break off which looked like it could be a problem but was still not too keen to start tapping the engine cases. The tapered end helps line it up if there is a bit of thread left in the cases. Put plenty of grease on the tap and went a small bit at a time and removing to clean, re-grease and repeating. Flushed the cases with a bit of oil, put some red Loctite on the helicoil and gently turned in using a finger until it was flush with the hole. Used the supplied tool to tap the end of the helicoil a couple of times to lock it, used a new washer, the original sump bolt went back in and has been good ever since.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ive knoticed that a few of you have sugested to use a new seal every time. By seal do you mean crush washer? Because the oversized 14mm i have only came with a nylon washer. Will that work?
 

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:yes The nylon washer will work just fine.
 
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