test the pump output and pressure
stalling at high speeds
Hello all. I have a 1998 tl1000r with a 2000tlr motor. I have a few problems. Pretty much all stock besides exhaust, charging mod, ait box mod, and gearing. Now when its full of gas it runs like a champ. No problem what so ever. When it gets below a half a tank it stalls.pretty bad only in 4th 5th and 6th at high rpms. This is my first tl and first v-twim bike so any tips will be greatly appreciated. Next problem is my fuel light. Comes on bright when i first turn the key over but don't come on when its low on gas. Found out the hard way.
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When you remove the fuel pump assembly to replace the fuel filter (and possibly the pump), also test the fuel level sending unit per the instructions in the service manual.
When the fuel light illuminates at key on, that is merely the ECM testing the idiot light, it is not testing the functionality of the fuel level sensors. At least you know the light bulb works. :laugh Now, we just need to sort out why the circuit is not sensing the fuel level.
Welcome to the Zone! :thumbup
When the fuel light illuminates at key on, that is merely the ECM testing the idiot light, it is not testing the functionality of the fuel level sensors. At least you know the light bulb works. :laugh Now, we just need to sort out why the circuit is not sensing the fuel level.
Welcome to the Zone! :thumbup
I would think filter but Do what Ring says. If he says do it, he knows something you don't so trust his judgement.
Ohh yeah, I agree with Six. It's gotta be the sending unit or wiring between sending unit and idiot light. The idiot lights come on when you turn the key so you know that your idiot lights are working, not necessarily that the system it indicates is working. I don't know if their is a float, I haven't been in mine but the float shaft could be bent and jammed if indeed their is one but 90% of the time it's electrical, not mechanical, at least in cars anyway.
Ohh yeah, I agree with Six. It's gotta be the sending unit or wiring between sending unit and idiot light. The idiot lights come on when you turn the key so you know that your idiot lights are working, not necessarily that the system it indicates is working. I don't know if their is a float, I haven't been in mine but the float shaft could be bent and jammed if indeed their is one but 90% of the time it's electrical, not mechanical, at least in cars anyway.
hoss06,
Like Six5 said that when you are inside your tank, you are presented with an opportunity to replace ( and RELOCATE ! ) the filter.
The easiest thing to do is look in the mods section or search, but if you want to do it, it is very very straightforward and worth it the next time you need to replace the filter.
Like Six5 said that when you are inside your tank, you are presented with an opportunity to replace ( and RELOCATE ! ) the filter.
The easiest thing to do is look in the mods section or search, but if you want to do it, it is very very straightforward and worth it the next time you need to replace the filter.
Well the fuel filter was so stopped up it was ridiculous. I dunno how the thing was even running. The pump is weak so its just a matter of time before it finally craps out. I knew somethin was wrong cause i been hearing ppl talk about the torque and power of the tlr and mine felt about like my old 600cc bike. Maybe now i can join the club of the tl power club. As far as the gas light not working. There was a wire under the tank not hooked up. Pretty good reason why the idiot light would come on but not when it got low on gas. Thanks yall for the tips and help.
Replacing the fuel pump/fuel filter and then cleaning the injectors really pepped my TLR up. These bikes are pretty old now and if it has sat around most of its life things in the fuel system seem to get bunged up. I'd even run fuel injector cleaner through mine but even though the bike ran ok, it was lagging in power compared to my previous 2 TLR's.Well the fuel filter was so stopped up it was ridiculous. I dunno how the thing was even running. The pump is weak so its just a matter of time before it finally craps out. I knew somethin was wrong cause i been hearing ppl talk about the torque and power of the tlr and mine felt about like my old 600cc bike. Maybe now i can join the club of the tl power club. As far as the gas light not working. There was a wire under the tank not hooked up. Pretty good reason why the idiot light would come on but not when it got low on gas. Thanks yall for the tips and help.
Ok fellers another question. Before i go and order my new fuel pump i been hearing a lot about the caravan fuel pump replacement that's cheaper. Any one actually try this and how did it work out for ya. I read on here it was a 98 caravan first then a 89, then a 2000 model. Or should i just spend the extra cash and get the oem one.
Does the pump still test as weak with the new filter in place? Probably worth checking first.
If not I understand the pump from an Suzuki Jimny will work. A quick visual comparison suggests this might be right. If not there's kits on Ebay for £25. This compares quite favourably against the £650 Suzuki wants for a complete replacement pump unit.
I'm about to replace my fuel filter with a Jimny item. Genuine Suzook part for £10 vs £50 for the bike version.
If not I understand the pump from an Suzuki Jimny will work. A quick visual comparison suggests this might be right. If not there's kits on Ebay for £25. This compares quite favourably against the £650 Suzuki wants for a complete replacement pump unit.
I'm about to replace my fuel filter with a Jimny item. Genuine Suzook part for £10 vs £50 for the bike version.
Hoss...Ok fellers another question. Before i go and order my new fuel pump i been hearing a lot about the caravan fuel pump replacement that's cheaper. Any one actually try this and how did it work out for ya. I read on here it was a 98 caravan first then a 89, then a 2000 model. Or should i just spend the extra cash and get the oem one.
I am in the US and just bought a pump off ebay for $20 free shipping with plans to test my pump come next month when my parts come in. I have opened my tank (for filter mod) and I know for certain this pump could be made to work. It took a while to get here, but lucky for you I ordered the pump about a month ago and just got it :devious . I haven't tested my OEM pump to see if I even need it (and feel I don't...), just bought it in case mine tested bad. I put an inline filter in and if you didn't: DO IT!!!
Moral of the story is I will mail it to you and you could have it first of next week. PayPal me $25 and I will send it flat rate and eat the 95 cent loss. :laugh
Like snowy said. Can't beat the price... He quoted you pounds, so I will use some of his lingo: If it doesn't work, toss it in the bin. :laugh bin
Well i found one on ebay for 35 bucks with a lifetime warranty. My sister said shell get for my Christmas present so i can't beat that. How about the nitro x fuel commander. Anyone think that would help some or is it just a waste of 60 bucks
..... How about the nitro x fuel commander. Anyone think that would help some or is it just a waste of 60 bucks
Don't bother with the Nitro X fuel commander. It's a gimmick. :thumbdown
All it does is alter the resistor value for the Atmospheric Pressure sensor (or the Intake Air Temp sensor - I forget which one) to richen the fuel mix. It is not worth the time it takes to install.
Save up for a PC3, or find someone who knows how to use a Yosh Box.
There have also been good murmmurings about the Healtech FI-Tuner Pro, but I can't speak from experience.
Thanks yall for the tips n help. Got all that fixed now i get to replace my gaskets on the right side cause i got oil leaking from my weep hole. Always gotta be somethin.
if you relocate the filter be sure to use submersible fuel hose in the tank.
Its special!
ordinary fuel hose will fail almost immediately
Its special!
ordinary fuel hose will fail almost immediately
While the tank is open, there's usually an internal tube from around the filler to a fitting on the bottom of the tank. If you spill a bit of gas around the filler, it drains harmlessly to the ground. But the top of the tube often disconnects where it's brazed to the top of the tank. Just check it out while it's apart, as it frequently disconnects from the tank being squeezed on its sides. But you would probably have noticed the smell of gas if you filled it REALLY completely topped off.
Also, be very careful tightening the pump mount plate. Use a new seal, which comes with new bolts with new "Loctite" sort of compound already on them. Follow the manual and use a very small-range torque wrench. It's just a few inch-pounds, not foot-pounds!!! If you over tighten you screwed up your tank.
Also, be very careful tightening the pump mount plate. Use a new seal, which comes with new bolts with new "Loctite" sort of compound already on them. Follow the manual and use a very small-range torque wrench. It's just a few inch-pounds, not foot-pounds!!! If you over tighten you screwed up your tank.
:stupid about tightening the bolts. 7 in-lbs IIRC, but look it up to be sure. Over tighten them and you'll warp the flange and then you'll have a whale of a time getting it to seal.
...
It's just a few inch-pounds, not foot-pounds!!! If you over tighten you screwed up your tank.
:stupid about tightening the bolts. 7 in-lbs IIRC, but look it up to be sure. ......
I knew what you meant, but for the sake of the newbie, here are the specs from the manual.....
Torque for the fuel pump plate screws - per the respective manuals:
TLR - 4.0Nm; 3.0 lb-ft; 36 in-lbs (Page 4-53)
TLS - 3.0Nm; 2.0 lb-ft; 24 in-lbs (Page 4-52)
I see no reason for the two models to be different, but the point is that it's a small amount of torque.
Hmmm, 7 in-lbs must have been on the Ohio model... :lol
Thanks guys. How do yall feel about the tre? I'm thinkin about gettin obe just to add to the low end performance
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