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Has anyone ever tried to stain their frame and swingarm? I have seen where concrete can be stained with Wood Stain and I'm gonna give that a try. Got any other ideas?
 

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I do know that people who do home-anodizing just soak it in warm strong RIT fabric dye fora a day after they grow the crystals. I don't think there's any clear-coat on the stock anodized stuff so that might work. Let us know how it turns out. And pick a color that won't look too bad if it fades or comes out mottled. Blue or yellow might be relatively safe, avoid anything that fades to pink.
 

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actually if you want to try a DIY home anodizing set up there is a bit more to it than just warm RIT dye. first you will need to strip off the old anodizing and make sure the surface is ompletly clean of anything. then you need one of those big tupperware storage tubs. you place a lead mat or some other type of condutor along the bottom with a lead goign out of the tub. then fill it with water and i beleive for a good anodize you need to make sure its within a certain PH level. then u need to find a way to suspend the part in your solution while not letting it touch the conductor on the bottom and charge the piece negatively i think while charging the submerged conducter positively (not completely sure just off the top of my head) a lot of people like to use the medium duty battery chargers. you can't use one of those "smart" chargers as they see its as a ground fault and shutdown. just like anything else if you want to do it good adn right there is a bit more tha expected in this job.

if you do a google search there is a wealth of info out there on this.
 

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You missed the point, that's to anodize and dye. The question is whether you can dye the existing anodize or not. It's two separate operations, one to grow the crystals and another to dye the crystals. The power supply and PH and leads etc. are all for growing the layer of anodized crystals. Then those crystals will hold color dye. But how do you clean an old anodize to re-dye? Is it possible? What's already on the stock parts? Pretty iffy, and I don't know. Maybe you do need to strip off the old anodize, maybe there's some way to clean and prep it? But was it already dyed some kind of silver somehow, or oiled down or even some armor-all might ruin it for later color?
 

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Something that big, get it done professionally. Even with a pro, it took a few tries to get my frame looking right. I've seen people paint their frames with flat black barbeque paint if you want a cheap and easy home job. Here's a picture of an anodized TLR frame.

 

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Hi,,
Find out what grade Aluminium it is first. If it's anything less than 6061 grade then keep it black. I agree with the Gixxstar. Have the job done by a pro as it will / might add value to the bike. If you do a shit job and do not %100 degrease the part to be anodised it will look crap and no one will want it.

I send 1000's of parts aluminium for anodising each year. I urg you not to do this your self. Not unless you are confident.

BTW, pro anodising is not that expensive.
 

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The stock finish is a clear powdercoat, so it's very durable and next to impossible to alter it's look.
For the frame and swingarm? Where did you hear that? Or are you talking about the wheels or barends or something?

The stock frame finish is definitely anodized with a hard surface layer that's much harder than powdercoat or even aluminum, and doesn't appear to have any obvious thick paint or powdercoat. That's why lye takes off the crystal layer so nicely. But there's all kinds of anti-UV or anti-stain liquids or even light dyes they might apply after the anodize process to get it to look more uniform across the extrusions, welds, cast parts.
 

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I would consider a candy powdercoat if it adhered to polished surfaces better.

I don't like paint or solid powdercoat in any right colors because it looks like the frame and swingarm are steel your'e trying to cover up.

But a nice professional anodize looks great IMHO, reminiscent of high-tech audio gear. Unfortunately, a lot of even professional black anodize fades in California sun to look purple and eventually even pink. You have to grow the crystals different for an ideal cosmetic anodize rather than an ideal hard surface.

About 6 years ago I made enquiries to several pro anodize firms in the Chicago area about getting some bike parts anodized black, and they referred me to an architectural coating company instead, and didn't want to do bike parts that would be left outdoors in black. There's some nice nickel treatments, some nice silver platings that can be purposely oxidized black, but they tended to ster me toward black chrome that supposedly scratches shiny white too.
 

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:stupid Stock finish = annodized. Poweder coat looks/feels totally different. Annodizing changes the surface of the aluminum itself, poweder coating is just that, a coat of paint-like stuff.
 

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annodizing will also fade with time :banghead

thats why I powdercoated my stuff
 

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Has anyone ever tried to stain their frame and swingarm? I have seen where concrete can be stained with Wood Stain and I'm gonna give that a try. Got any other ideas?
Can you post pics of how using wood stain looks?
 

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hey Gixxter, lluuurrrvvvve the look of that frame :thumbup how much did that set you back :O
 
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I just assumed it was a clear powdercoat on the frame, I've polished a few suzuki frames and swingarms in the past. And i always had to start with a high grade stripper or oven cleaner to remove what i thought was clear powdercoat before i could get to the polishing stage. There definately was a layer of something on the frame besides anodizing!

For the frame and swingarm? Where did you hear that? Or are you talking about the wheels or barends or something?

The stock frame finish is definitely anodized with a hard surface layer that's much harder than powdercoat or even aluminum, and doesn't appear to have any obvious thick paint or powdercoat. That's why lye takes off the crystal layer so nicely. But there's all kinds of anti-UV or anti-stain liquids or even light dyes they might apply after the anodize process to get it to look more uniform across the extrusions, welds, cast parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm startin' to think a stain won't work right but I may pick some up and experiment. I was under the impression that the cast parts of the TLS frame would "smut" and make a black film appear when exposed to acid in anodizing and therefore not be suitable for anodizing. Maybe they are better quality aluminum than the suspension links are. Mine foamed up white when I cleaned them with an acid based aluminum cleaner/brightener. Then I had to use steel wool to get the black film that was left. They were nice an shiney afterwards though.
 

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I just assumed it was a clear powdercoat on the frame, I've polished a few suzuki frames and swingarms in the past. And i always had to start with a high grade stripper or oven cleaner to remove what i thought was clear powdercoat before i could get to the polishing stage. There definately was a layer of something on the frame besides anodizing!

That's why they call "hard anodized" a treatment to harden the surface of aluminum.
 

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I'm startin' to think a stain won't work right but I may pick some up and experiment. I was under the impression that the cast parts of the TLS frame would "smut" and make a black film appear when exposed to acid in anodizing and therefore not be suitable for anodizing. Maybe they are better quality aluminum than the suspension links are. Mine foamed up white when I cleaned them with an acid based aluminum cleaner/brightener. Then I had to use steel wool to get the black film that was left. They were nice an shiney afterwards though.
The links are probably painted.
 

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love the powder coat effect and yes the anodising will fade eventually.
I have heard of a chemical / acid that will do the job but its applying the stuff evenly to get the right colour. I have to do some digging around.
 
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