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Well this is gonna slow me down a bit, at least some of the bolt is sticking out of the head. When i heat this thing up to get it out do i heat the head or the bolt?
 

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I'd heat up the head but it is an either or deal. It would be easier IMHO to heat up the head in the area around the broken fastener as you want to be able to grab the fastener with a set of vice grips & it would be easier to grab if it wasn't super hot.

However first I would use quite a bit of lubricant & allow it to soak in for like 10 minutes & then grab a small hammer & tap, tap on the fastener to help it work in better. You don't have to try to remove the fastener without heating it first by just getting some penetrating lubricant in there first. Let the lube do some work for you before you start using heat. Yeah, & after you tap, tap on it add some more lube & then let it sit some more. IMHO that seems to work better for me. BTW I have a set of left handed drill bits you can borrow if heating it up doesn't loosen the fastener up enough to be able to remove in a conventional manner. Yeah, before heating stuff up you would wipe off the excess lube - but I know that you knew that.


:)
 
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Mr. DOBALINA said:
I'd heat up the head but it is an either or deal. It would be easier IMHO to heat up the head in the area around the broken fastener as you want to be able to grab the fastener with a set of vice grips & it would be easier to grab if it wasn't super hot.

However first I would use quite a bit of lubricant & allow it to soak in for like 10 minutes & then grab a small hammer & tap, tap on the fastener to help it work in better. You don't have to try to remove the fastener without heating it first by just getting some penetrating lubricant in there first. Let the lube do some work for you before you start using heat. Yeah, & after you tap, tap on it add some more lube & then let it sit some more. IMHO that seems to work better for me. BTW I have a set of left handed drill bits you can borrow if heating it up doesn't loosen the fastener up enough to be able to remove in a conventional manner. Yeah, before heating stuff up you would wipe off the excess lube - but I know that you knew that.


:)
Thats my plan of attack now, just soaking in in WD-40 spraying it every half hour. Then tap it with the hammer. I think it'll come out tonight if not i'll hit you up for the extractor:) BTW thanks for the help on sunday!!
 

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I also had a header bolt break off. We tried everything (heat, lube.. tequila... lol) but that bitch wouldn't come out. We got the vice grips on it, and actuallly twisted the HEAD of what was left, and it twisted right off... I eventually had to tap that bitch out with a reverse threaded exractor, and re-tapped the bolt hole. The whole ordeal ended up taking about two hours because I had to go visit the hardware store... no fun.. good luch with all that
 

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I just had a nightmare time with two snapped header bolts tried heating bolts and using vice grips didn,t work at all ended up snapping one flush with the head so it was the drill and tried easyout,s still not pull it out back to drilling and ended up tapping out new 8mm holes for new studs Suzuki header bolts CRAP!! to friggin soft :banghead
 
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NYCSTRIPES said:
I had a nightmare of a time removing a broken header bolt two years ago..had to remove the head and send it to a machinist. My EZ-Out snapped off in the header bolt that I drilled out. "Pissed" was not quite the word.
Ken

http://www.tlzone.net/forums/showthread.php?t=24959
Ok Deja Vu this just happened drilled the hole for the easy out, and it snapped as soon as it got tight. Little bastard broke off flush in the hole i just drilled:banghead So the easy out is not soft enough to drill and the drill bit just goes all around the little chunk:banghead So how does the machine shop get the snapped bolt out of the head now?
 

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No, don't use an ez-out first!

Reverse pitch drill bit!

Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

Me feels your pain. :mad

I've broken a few EZ-out's off in my day. Think you should give RWALL a call & ask him for "other" machine shop owners in the area that would deal with that & what they want you to do to get them the part in question. His shop's phone number is super easy to remember, (818) 344-4444. Rick usually goes to the bike night out in the W.Valley on Wednesday nights. Depending on how far I get both bikes set up for the track day weekend I may head out there & talk to him about it.

How much bolt/EZ-out material is sticking out of the head?

Any photos?

-:puke
 

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Hey Sully,
RWALL reminded me that the machine shop that does repairs to exhaust pipes (as in removing dents from header pipes, etc) also does broken bolt removal stuff. So I looked in my rolodex & found their business card:

Randy's Deburring, Inc.
BROKEN BOLT, TAP & DRILL REMOVAL
"Broken Easy outs, Bleeder Valves, etc.
9811 Owensmouth Ave., #12
Chatsworth, CA
(818) 341-3224


Can't believe I didn't remember that business card heading! Sometimers is setting in I suppose. Next time calling Rick up would probably be a good idea as he has run his own machine shop for many years & I'm sure he has more connections like this...

Think it looks like you are most likely going to have to remove that cylinder head though.

:crazy

-
 
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This sux, removing the head is well beyond my skill level besides i have no time to do the mods i'm already in the middle of:banghead Do you think there is a way to do it without removing the head? Oh my list of things to do just keeps getting longer:puke
 

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Give them a call Sully. I am pretty sure they will need that part sitting on a bench to do the work but I may be wrong. They are a good shop & I do recommend them as they pulled out a nice size ding out of my current M4 full system head pipe. That cost me like $30 & saved me a few hundred if I would have ordered a new one from M4. Two of the guys that run the shop ride, one a streetbike (an 05' CBR1000RR) the other a dirtbike. You never know, they might just do it with the head still attached & the engine out of the frame. You are planning on pulling it out of there anyway, no? I haven't done an R&R on a TLS cylinder head but I'm fairly sure it is pretty straight forward but may be a little labor intensive. The next 9 days I have 4 track days to work & ride so I will be a little busy but I can give you a hand before our Willow date a week from Friday. The GSXR1000 is ready to rock but the TLS needs a little prep work for Monday's Ducati Owners track day...
 

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"Easyout" Like Shit they are !!

I never use em.

Go buy a carbide burr and fit into a dremel, it will eat the hardened easyout or broken drill bit no worries, as I know..............

Once you have removed whats left of the easyout, either keep grinding or drill the snapped bolt out to just less than the thread, place a washer over the hole and fill the hole with a mig welder up to and onto the washer, then place a M10/M12 nut over the washer and weld the inside of the nut onto the washer, wait until the heat has dissapated into the head (ie the nut is no longer cheery red) and carefully unscrew with a socket.

Job sorted :devious
 
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Mr. DOBALINA said:
Give them a call Sully. I am pretty sure they will need that part sitting on a bench to do the work but I may be wrong. They are a good shop & I do recommend them as they pulled out a nice size ding out of my current M4 full system head pipe. That cost me like $30 & saved me a few hundred if I would have ordered a new one from M4. Two of the guys that run the shop ride, one a streetbike (an 05' CBR1000RR) the other a dirtbike. You never know, they might just do it with the head still attached & the engine out of the frame. You are planning on pulling it out of there anyway, no? I haven't done an R&R on a TLS cylinder head but I'm fairly sure it is pretty straight forward but may be a little labor intensive. The next 9 days I have 4 track days to work & ride so I will be a little busy but I can give you a hand before our Willow date a week from Friday. The GSXR1000 is ready to rock but the TLS needs a little prep work for Monday's Ducati Owners track day...
Thanks Gerhard, I leave on a red eye tonight to go to Nashville for a short run with Beck were doing Saturday Night Live on the 28th so were gonna do a small tour from now until then. Then i am off to cleveland until the 8th of Nov. So i'm kinda screwed for time to get this thing back on the road. When i get back i'll sort this mess out!!
 

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If you can find a good welder like myself he can weld a nut to the flush broken bolt and after it cools for about a 30 to 45 sec you should be able to turn it out. If this doesnt work just go bye another bike. :laugh
 
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