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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm in the process of rebuilding an engine for my TLS and I'm positive it's going to take forever (2 kids, old house, needy dogs, etc....). Along the way I'm sure I could use some advice on certain things and I figure I should probably keep it all in one thread. So here it is....

The Slowest Engine Rebuild Thread!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A little more detail.... I have a 98 TLS with trans issues. It makes a loud hum and bad vibration in 5th gear and some pretty high frequency vibes all the time. Locally I found a 97 TLS engine for cheap, but it was open and sitting in a garage for a few years and may have something internally wrong with it. I don't exactly know if I'm going to rebuild the 97 and swap it with the 98 or use the 97 for parts and rebuild the 98.

Tonight I removed the from cylinder and found some of what may have been wrong with it. The piston has marks from contact on it and I believe the cylinder does too. After seeing this I'm thinking the 97 motor might end up as a parts donor to the 98. I have a couple pics of the damage. The piston is pretty easy to see. In the cylinder the picture shows a couple dots where it looks damaged. How much work and cost could I expect to fix this problem?
 

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First define EXACTLY what you want to achieve. Stock performance, or some improvement?

The contact does indicate a bad front cylinder rod big end bearing failure; the extra play let things collide. You should have heard the rod bearing clunking getting worse. The '97 only fed oil to the crank from one end. I think the difference was the case, not the crank? Anyway, make sure you use the relevant '98 parts so it doesn't happen again. Maybe '97 crank in '98 cases? The '97 heads have different shaped intake ports too. And the '97 has a narrower trans output shaft bearing right by the chain sprocket. And the '97 has a smaller oil pump.

For longest life, search on the posts from ring-in & sam about having rods rebuilt or using the better SV1000 rods & better SV1000 bearings. Generally don't just try to re-use TL rods, the big ends tend to stretch & elongate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My goal is to get one of two engines build with stock performance (no big bore :no ) without having to buy too much in additional parts. I AM interested in making sure I do whats best for longevity though. I have seen and will look at the TL vs SV internal parts thread to see what to possibly get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Definitely a good write up. I'm taking my notes along the way.

I got the other cylinder off the motor this morning. It looks a bit better as far as nicks in the cylinder, but I see more wear and scoring. I think what my best bet is is to cobble together one engine using mostly 98+ parts. After reading a lot on oiling issues with the 97 motor I just don't know if its worth sticking too much money in a 97 motor when I have a 98 motor. I'm not a racer and I don't mistreat my bike, so I don't really think I'll need a spare working motor.

 

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Which clutch will you use, 5-bolt or 6-bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was planning on going with a 5-bolt with a welded center. Is the 6-bolt still a better bet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
zombie.gif

Looking for some motivation to get the TL motor fixed up. I'm still basically at the same point as my last couple posts. (Kids and house have been keeping me busy)

I've got the spare '97 motor ready to split. I still don't have a lot of time or most of the special tools. I'm hoping I can barter for someone to rebuild it for me. Problem is, I haven't the slightest clue on what a rebuild should cost (financially or barter items). How much would a rebuild cost?
 

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Is the 6-bolt still a better bet?
That depends on who you ask. N2wheelies got his 5-bolt to work with careful setting of the pack stack height, solid center, and careful preloading of the springs. I had nothing but trouble with the 5-spring, and in hindsight a lot of that was probably due to fancy Silkolene oil. The 5-spring has wider friction bands. The 6-spring basket and hub will accept the early clutch disc pack or the later pack that had thinner plates but one more friction plate and one more steel plate. IMHO the 6-spring with the late-model extra-plate pack and Barnett springs is the way to go! The extra plates work great, without changing the weight or size or lever pull. I did a bunch of work and spent a bunch of money down the drain trying to get the 5-spring to work very long, just to toss it and spend it all again on the 6-spring which has almost no compatible parts.
 
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