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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright TL gurus...I have a question. For a while my clutch was slipping when I was getting on it hard. Once I started getting up in the RPM’s it slip but only for a second then it would grab again. It never happened if I was slowing accelerating, but almost always if I was WOT.

I ended up putting new SS brake lines on with new brake fluid. When I was done, I figured I might as well change the fluid in the clutch reservoir too. After I did this it has not slipped since. I’ve put a few hundred miles on it riding it hard as always, and the problem has gone.

So, by simply flushing the clutch fluid out with some new brake juice, what was the problem? :confused And how did this fix it? :confused I was ready to buy new springs but that’s no longer needed :devious
 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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Clutch fluid can't have anything to do with slippage - if anything it wouldn't disengage properly, but not make it slip.
 

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Hold on a second, did you say you put brake fluid where your supposed to put 10w40? The tl has a wet cluch, it uses your oil as lubrication. I have never heard of clutch fluid and would not ever recon you supplement brake fluid for oil.
 

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tlr has hydraulic clutch tls has cable
 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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air in old fluid could expand and disengage slighty :dunno
Not a chance! could expand and create enough pressure to disengage the clutch even minutely.

Chrisbanks00 - didn't happen to do an oil change at around the same time did you?
 

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How bout just following the adjustments in the manual after you put in new hydro fluid?

Some don't know there are two adjustments for the clutch. One on the handlebar and one on the worm gear near the front sprocket.

C
 

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Not a chance! could expand and create enough pressure to disengage the clutch even minutely.

Chrisbanks00 - didn't happen to do an oil change at around the same time did you?

No, it can. With old fluid you just barely touch the clutch lever and it disengages/ engages.

But I do agree, you need to make sure you are using wet clutch motorcycle oil.

I used to mistake rear tire slippage for clutch slippage. Since then I have learned :)


Like ring in said S=Cable Clutch | R=Hydro Clutch
 

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Not a chance! could expand and create enough pressure to disengage the clutch even minutely.
Oh!

But going on that he's stated that he's done nothing other than change the fluid, in theory some expansion could take place through air and heat. So, unless you've tested somehow? I'd leave that in the mix as a possible.

Plus one on the overfill as well. I binded up the rear brake, overfilling a resovioir many years ago come to think of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey all..I did change the oil but it was a few weeks prior. And after I did, I still had the "slippage", before and after. The oil level is right where it needs to be.

Just to clarify it is a '03 TLR. And on top of the clutch reservoir, the cap show's to replace with DOT <forgot the #> brake fluid.

I have not messed with any adjustments. I simply drained the fluid from the bleeder down by the shifter and replaced via the reservoir near the clutch by the handle.

I have no idea why it doesn't slip since i've done this which is why I came to the experts :hail
 

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How bout just following the adjustments in the manual after you put in new hydro fluid?

Some don't know there are two adjustments for the clutch. One on the handlebar and one on the worm gear near the front sprocket.

C
:confused Monkee, it' s a hydraulic clutch, there are no adjustments. You just fill the reservoir and bleed the system.
 
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The finger/ramp cam mechanism which retracts the spring-post base to add preload to the springs when under forward torque...that mechanism is VERY touchy, and sometimes the most minor changes push it over the line of working or not working.
 

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Hold on a second, did you say you put brake fluid where your supposed to put 10w40? The tl has a wet cluch, it uses your oil as lubrication. I have never heard of clutch fluid and would not ever recon you supplement brake fluid for oil.
Just to clarify...

The TLS uses a clutch cable, but the TLR uses a hydraulic clutch actuator with a system more or less identical to the front brake system to disengage the clutch. When chrisbanks mentions clutch fluid he meant the fluid in the system that actuates the clutch.

Engine oil in which the clutch itself is lubricated is a completely different thing and in that aspect the TLR and the TLS are identical. You use a 10W40 (or similar) engine oil.
 

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Most likely IMHO:

The clutch cam is so sensitive that its very likely the new oil from the change took a while to saturate the clutch with the new oil, and it's most likely a delayed reaction to the oil change. Changing the fluid just made you pump the lever and compress/decompress the clutch pack until the old oil was gone from the clutch pack.

Problem is that it's an indication your clutch's finger/ramp cam system is on the verge or working or not working.

Other possibility is something like that the pushrod was stuck in the seal, or a steel plate was stuck in the splined hub or friction plate stuck in grooves worn into the basket finger slots, or a spring had grooved the spring tunnel in the pressure plate, and just working the clutch lever freed it up o rmoved parts around so they no longer suffer that problem.

One way or another, it's more likely working because you pumped the lever than because of the new fluid.
 

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The new fluid is allowing the slave piston to move back into the bore easier, less pressure plate pressure neeed to push the push rod back out? :dunno
 

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It's possible that it was a stuck slave piston, but that would probably require a rebuild or at least a good cleaning, not just a fluid change. But it's remotely possible.
 
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