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TLOTM Sept. '08
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Discussion Starter #1
I just completed the 'Plus' Mod yesterday.

Uses the same fundamental schematic of course



In the following method, none of the original wires require to cut or spliced.

Instead of picking up the relay coil power off the original coil wires, I used the now conveniently un-utilized former connector to the VCSV (which was removed as part of the Airbox & emissions removal mods). This is electrically common as connected to the coils, as well as the fuel pump relay.

The connector plug will conveniently plug directly onto the relay pin 85, so no cutting or splicing required. This also leaves the original wiring to the coils intact - simply pull them off the coils and connect new wires with female spade lugs back to the relay pin 87.
Two wires directly to the battery provided the power to pin 30 (via fuse) and the ground to pin 86.

Then finally simply stick the relay to the inside of the frame with self-stick Velco pads.

If for whatever reason ( :confused ) you wanted to return to stock, the only thing that would be required would be to pull off the spades at the coils and re-connect the orange/white wires.

Here's how it turned out

The connector plug from the VCSV




Relay wiring complete and installed on inside of frame. (You can actually see the disconnected orange/white wire from the rear coil in this pic - tape them up as a final precaution. Although these have a rubber sleeve over them, the spade terminals will remain 'hot' with ignition power)




Another view as above, airbox relaced



I used 12 ga wire for the coil power from battery & to each coil and 14ga for the ground for the relay back to the battery.
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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Not a bad way to do it :thumbup

Use both from the VCSV for a 4K rpm rev limiter :laugh
 

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any way to dumb this post up a little like a parts list, and a bit more detail...
i have a bit of learning to do!!! thx
 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
any way to dumb this post up a little like a parts list, and a bit more detail...
Well this one utilizes the connector assuming the emissions stuff (specifically the VCS Valve) has been removed.
Not to be evasive, there are quite a few threads on how to do this general mod, the main difference in this case, is using that plug.

If you haven't removed the emissions stuff, then you can still tap off that orange white wire on the connector for the power or see another suggestion in the instructions below.

Total parts list is 12ga wire, an automotive relay (4-pin), some female spade terminals (for coil & relay connections) & ring lugs (for battery connections), in-line fuse holder and adhesive velcro pads. Tools required, wire strippers & crimp tool plus whatever you need to get mechanical access to begin with.

1) remove the orange/white wire from each coil - these are spade connectors, just pull them off. Tape over the ends to keep them electrically isolated & dry (but see item 5 before you do).
2) make some mini harnesses that will run from each coil to the relay location of your choice - these are simply two individual wires with a female spade connector on each coil end (from where you removed the orange/white wire), then both wires joined together into a single spade connector that you will connect to pin 87 of the relay.
3) Another single wire - female spade connector on one end (connected to relay pin 30), then connect to the in-line fuse holder, which in turn at it's opposite end will have a ring-lug that will go on the battery positive.
4) Another single wire - female spade on relay end (connected to pin 86) and ring lug on other end, connected to battery negative. You can use much smaller gauge wire for this one if you - doesn't need to be 12 gauge.
5) That leaves the final terminal on the relay, pin 85 - either connect the former VCSV plug (as in original post) directly on to that pin.
OR - If you haven't removed that valve, alternatively you could make a wire with a MALE spade terminal at the opposite end from the relay connection and plug this into the orange/white female spade of the rear coil (left side) - tape or heatshrink over it to make sure its secure, electrically isolated & waterproof. The other end of course would have a female spade to plug onto the relay pin 85.

That should do it!
 

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I just used an inline spade connector to take off from the coil spade - simple as that.
 

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thanks alot D'Ecosse , just as well to do this mod as well as the pair system removal....
still waiting to get my fork seals replaced!!!

thanks for the extra help!
 
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