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Side light issue

1230 Views 13 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  762fmj
We'll now I seem to have traced my electrical problem to the side light. Turn on the ignition with the light switch off and the side light comes on and flashes in an irregular fashion. Turn the light switch on and no lights come on. But they did once today and have in the past. This little fecker involves the black/white and the brown wires. I have a feeling that the ignition switch may be a primary area for attention as the switch is very fickle.
I think I'll replace it with a pattern part and see if that works .. I'll also check out the condition of the brown wire running the length of the bike. My rear light and brake light works fine though. Ooooh I dislike electrics.
Spent ages continuity testing the switches ... They seem fine if not a little tired and worn and so shows a little sensitivity.
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We'll now I seem to have traced my electrical problem to the side light. Turn on the ignition with the light switch off and the side light comes on and flashes in an irregular fashion. Turn the light switch on and no lights come on. ...... I have a feeling that the ignition switch may be a primary area for attention as the switch is very fickle.
I think I'll replace it with a pattern part and see if that works .. I'll also check out the condition of the brown wire running the length of the bike. My rear light and brake light works fine though......

If there are no instrument lights, then it could be the ignition switch or the large white gang connector.
:confused

On second thought, the fact that the tail light is OK says that the ignition switch is not the problem. Still ,look at the LWGC.

Before you get too far into it, have a look inside the Yellow gang connector. It is a common problem area on the TL when it comes to lighting. The Yellow/White wire terminal over heats and sometimes causes problems with the other terminals. If nothing there look inside the black connector coming from the right hand switch pod.

Also check the main loom ground connection near the battery. That single spade connector can cause odd things to happen. It easily corrodes - especially in the UK. :)
Thanks Six5 .... Appreciate your thoughts on this. I've had the connectors apart to do the continuity tests from the switches. All seems to be fine at first sight. I haven't looked at the earth connection although I know I should have .... every time I thought about it I got sidetracked. I'm assuming it's made somewhere on the inner frame close by the battery.
Grrrrr just spent an unproductive hour messing in the loom! Did I mention that I hate electrics! Turn on the ignition and the dash comes to life with it's lighting, oil pressure, mileage, fuel light (cos it's nearly empty). Turn on side light and the dash drops off the grid but the rear light, licence plate light and brakes all work fine. (Indicators not yet connected). Did try the switching it on and pressed the horn to see if that worked .... Nope the dash dropped out and the side light came on:confused. The common link in this is the black/white wire. Gonna have to start from scratch I think.
....
Turn on the ignition and the dash comes to life with it's lighting, oil pressure, mileage, fuel light (cos it's nearly empty). Turn on side light and the dash drops off the grid but the rear light, licence plate light and brakes all work fine. (Indicators not yet connected). Did try the switching it on and pressed the horn to see if that worked .... Nope the dash dropped out and the side light came on:confused.
When you say "side light," are you referring to the turn signal? :confused


My British is a little rusty..... :)
LOL ... We British prefer to use the term ... indicator ... to your ... turn signal.

The sidelight is the single wee bulb between the headlights on the TLS. :)
Yep I have a feedback reading in the black/white wires. That'd suggest a short .... Just gotta find it now.
.... I'm assuming it's made somewhere on the inner frame close by the battery.
Just trace the 14 gage Blk/Wht wire from where it bolts to the engine case - directly above the countershaft sprocket. When you find the single spade connector, cut it out and splice/solder the wires togther for good measure.


LOL ... We British prefer to use the term ... indicator ... to your ... turn signal.

The sidelight is the single wee bulb between the headlights on the TLS. :)
Thanks for the translation. :thumbup And for a little further clarification, we Americans prefer to use the term "parking light" to your "sidelight."

So, now that I know what the "sidelight" circuit is, that changes the ball game - a little.


If I'm seeing the complete picture, this condition you mentioned earlier is normal.
...Turn on side light and the dash drops off the grid but the rear light, licence plate light and brakes all work fine. (Indicators not yet connected). Did try the switching it on and pressed the horn to see if that worked .... Nope the dash dropped out and the side light came on:confused.
When the parking/side light is enabled with the ignition switch, it is the only circuit getting power. None of the other systems are powered in the "P" position on the ignition switch.

Now, the fact that the sidelight blinks or turns on/off when the ignition switch is in the normal "run" position is a problem. But then the tail should blink also, as it is the same circuit. :dowhat

If I'm just confusing the issue, I'll keep quiet and let you sort the problem. :coocoo Sounds like you're almost there.:laugh



Yep I have a feedback reading in the black/white wires. That'd suggest a short .... Just gotta find it now.
"feedback reading" ?
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Hmmm I need to consult my wiring diagram which is back at home (I'm at work right now). There is indeed a parking light position on the ignition switch but I'm not sure which buld it is supposed to illuminate ... probably the sidelight located between the two headlights. I've not even tried that parking light business yet that's no doubt another little problem area. No the sidelight (which is the same bulb) is energised by the righthand light switch. I'll certainly get that earth connection that you've kindly pointed out.
I recall having removed a lot of racing tape from up under the chin fairing when I took that off (possibly the last proper time that the eletrics seemed to work) The tape was holding the connectors up ... out of harms way I assumed ... in retrospect it was probably there as a bodge to keep a particular connection stable. I'm going to have to rip that lot out and have a good look. The yellow and the black connectors look fine but maybe they aren't. I'll keep on keeping on. Thank you again ... this forces me to keep thinking. The old process of elimination is now in full swing. :)
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how about the simple things.....like My Momma used to always say "K"eep "I"t "S"imple "S"tupid! "KISS" for short......but the simple questions from and I am in no way trying to be a smart ass.....unless of course it works then yes I am, but does the battery have the correct voltage/amps? Battery any good? Some times batteries as they build up sulphate in the plates can read good but then under load go to the shitter on you! Just trying to help and thought I would ask? Hope you have luck finding the Gremlin....I don't think Any of us except "JoE" on the planet like electronics....only electronic I like is my Iphone!
..... "K"eep "I"t "S"imple "S"tupid! ....
LOL ... It has to be simple for me ... I'm not too bright when it comes to electrics ... Come to think of it ... I ain't too bright period!

No the battery is fine ... takes and holds a good charge. I have to change the ignition switch just because it's shagged ... So that'll eliminate one potential issue. I still think it's a busted wire up behind the instrument cluster.

I'm off to the bike show tomorrow so it'll have wait until Saturday before I can recommence with the shakedown :banghead
Well now I've traced the main problem to the black/white wire in the white connector block. Burned and corroded. I can now get all of the electrics up but the pass switch does not work ... you can see a slight dimming of the headlights when it is pressed but no blue dash light illuminates. Disconnect the headlight and press the pass switch and the blue light comes up ... so it does work. :O

A plus point though is that I get all the functionality from the ignition switch ... even the park facility.
.... the pass switch does not work ... you can see a slight dimming of the headlights when it is pressed but no blue dash light illuminates. Disconnect the headlight and press the pass switch and the blue light comes up ... so it does work. :O

....

Congrats on getting the "park" feature to work.
:)

Concerning the "pass" switch, my guess is there is still excessive resistance in that circuit. Therefore, it won't allow enough current through to drive the lights. So then, the voltage available at the lights is too low. Put a meter on it with the lights plugged in. You'll see what I mean.

Without the headlights plugged in, the little blue indicator lights, because it takes very little current.

Does the high-beam switch and circuit work OK? If so, that nearly narrows it down to the pass switch and a couple wires that could be the problem.
... Does the high-beam switch and circuit work OK? If so, that nearly narrows it down to the pass switch and a couple wires that could be the problem ....
Yup the Hi Lo circuit works fine ... I'll strip the left hand switch mech right down and see what's what. Thank you again for you input ... always very much appreciated.
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