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Shes about ready to drop like 9 month fetus!!!

19K views 133 replies 18 participants last post by  rxf610 
#1 ·
I suppose I should have started my last thread here so I'll continue the thread I started in the help section.

So I've about got my engine ready to drop. I did go ahead and pull the throttle bodies all the way out just to clean it up a bit. I've got 2 pages left in the service manual. Should I go ahead and pull the flywheel, clutch basket, and crank bolts while its in the frame? Leverage will not be easy to obtain once its out and I don't have an impact or an engine jig. I can take it to an impact once its out but unless I really need to I won't . I'm sure I'll need a new crank, especially considering how many times I unlocked, started it, and locked it back up. Last time it locked I couldn't get it unlocked so that will help when I pull the basket and flywheel, not so much when I pull the crank. I have no intention of turning the 97 crank. I'llpick up a second hand 98 or later crank somewhere (per The Ring-In's instruction) The ONLY way Iwill reuse this crank is if its undamaged and that aint likely. So hopefully I'll have it apart buy tomorrow. I'm sure everyone is on the edge of their seat with popcorn in hand waiting to see what the diagnosis is . I'll have pics up asap.........
 
#3 ·
Ohhhhhhh yeah! I fully intend to put a tlr engine just as soon as this one is cashed out. I'm not gonna do a full rebuild. I'm not gonna touch the heads or transmission unless I get in their and see bad damage. I just can't afford to right now. I ll probably put new head gaskets on, I'll do what u guys think best on that one. All I'm planing on is crank, bearings, and rings if needed. I know the pistons have been lubed good, I poured a shit ton of oil in the cylinders after it locked the first time, again I'll go with u guys judgement on the rings. I would love to do a a full rebuild but I just don't have the money right now and won't for about 6 more months. In six months I'll be rolling in it again and I'll get me a tlr engine or maybe an sv engine. I haven't researched the sv yet but I like the way it looks. So if I can get one season out of it I'll be happy. It's only got 44,000 miles and it's clearly been taken care of and the previous owner did not dog, hell he didn't even ride it, the chicken strips are like 3 inch's wide. Just one 2 inch strip down the middle.
 
#4 ·
Ok I guess I've cursed myself. I can't find a crank anywhere for less than $300. Looks like I may have to have mine repaired. That's damn near my whole budget for this rebuild. So tell me Ring, what's a set of oversized bearings cost and how long from down under? So do u tell me what to have it cut to or do I tell u what they cut it to? I trust you not steering me wrong so I think it would be worth waiting a bit, I been waiting this long.
 
#5 ·
[SUP][/SUP]Well it's out. Didn't get to work on it much yesterday so I finished it up this morning. I think i will take it to a friends house to tear it down. My girl is about ready to kill me for doing this inside but **** it's cold outside and it's pouring rain. My friend has all the tools and shit I need. Ironically it's the guy I got the bike from. Probably take it over there Monday. Hopefully i can get it done in one day.

 
#6 ·
Found a set of tlr rods and pistons for $99. Don't know if I'll need them yet but that's a good price I suppose. I was really shocked to find a serious lack of tl parts available. Hell u can get a gsxr 1000 rebuild kit with pistons, rods, bearings, oil pump, seals, gaskets and everything else u need for less than $500 USD. You can't find a kit PERIOD for a tl engine. Buying all these parts seperate is gonna kill me. , $80 for head gaskets, $40 oil pump, $50 bearings(?), plus whatever else I need and machine shop work. I'd like to just get it all in a kit so I could replace everything that may need it.
 
#8 ·
I joined tl planet a week ago and they still haven't approved my account. I even put The Ring-in as a referral and still nothing. I have not seen any engines for sell here unless u count a €4000 1080 bigbore engine. I can get a engine for $700-$800 but I feel certain I can get it going for less than $500 usd. What is their really to replace? I probably won't need pistons, rods maybe but their pretty cheap. Bearings are around $50 from what I've seen, not sure about oversized bearings but surly their not much more. What's it cost to turn a crank? I don't see any damage to the cams. They don't appear to have ever been oil starved. Oil is pooled in the corners and their is no metal in their so Im pretty sure the heads are ok. Head gaskets are about $70. Rings are about $60 I think and a 98 or later oil pump can be had for $40. What else is there to replace? There is not many seals and gaskets to replace. Did I miss anything?
 
#9 ·
Started tearing it down this morning. So far I've got the heads and the hugs off. I'm about to pull the clutch, flywheel, and crankshaft sprockets. I have descovered that the rod bearings are where it's locked up at. I can't get the pistons up enough to pull the pins. They will rock back and forth but hey won't move on the crank. There both locked. The jugs look great. The hone marks are clearly visible and no lip. Same thing with the heads, no obvious damage so maybe I lucked up. Back to work I go.


 
#10 ·
Well, it's just about ready to split. I believe all I have left to come off is the flywheel. I have a vague idea how it comes off. If anybody has a picture of the tool used to pull the flywheel that would help a lot. I'm hoping that since it's locked up at the rods the big ends will be ok and if the rods are locked hopefully the rods will be damaged and not the crank, hey it could happen. So far everything else is going my way. I am a bit concerned tho. I notice quite a bit of lateral movement in the crank. It moves side to side quite a bit. Guess well see. I guess if I can't get the flywheel off I'll take it to a shop and get them to pull the flywheel and split the case. I'll post some updates as they come if anybody cares, if not this will be my last post on the topic. No point in talking to myself.



 
#14 ·
.... I'll post some updates as they come if anybody cares, if not this will be my last post on the topic. No point in talking to myself ....
You keep it up pal ... I'm very interested ... I admire anyone who has the temerity to have a go ..... No matter what anyone says we all learn something from the process. BTW look after that lady of yours ... agreeing to a full bike rip down in the house is priceless. I got bollocked yesterday just for polishing my new cans in the kitchen. :rolleyes
 
#11 ·
you need a 20mm x 1.5mm bolt to remove the flywheel

the rear axle on the katana is probably the right size.

remove it and try it
 
#16 ·
the rear axle from the other Suzuki you have. is a prospect.

wind it in tight and hit the end with a hammer and the flywheel should pop off
 
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#17 ·
The only bike I have is the TLS. I can just take it to the dealership (not the one that ****ed it up) and try a couple different ones. If a katana works I'll try a few of those. Buying the bolt is still cheaper than having them do it and I'll have it when I need it again. I greatly appreciate the info. One more question, what do I us to reseal the crankcase?
 
#18 ·
20mm bolt with 1.5mm thread is the go

needs a special bolt shop not a hardware store
 
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#19 ·
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#21 ·
I would recommend getting the "bolt" to remove the flywheel. It makes it very easy and nothing "pops" off and goes flying accross the room. :) I live in the sticks... no one had the bolt so i ordered the "tool" by motion pro.. half the price of the suzuki part. Worth its money... used it 3x now.
 
#22 ·
Yeah I'm looking. Been sinking all my doh in this Ancient ole tractor. Should have kept the TLS I suppose. :lol
 
#23 ·
Watching anxiously...

I am still kicking myself, I hate to even say it to you, since it would be yours right now...




About an hour away saw a TL motor on CL for $400... spare, just sitting around... Oh how I wish I were a millionaire... I would have delivered it to you a week ago. I could have helped you drop that motor out in no time. I had to wiggle mine to remove that rear exhaust stub.

WHICH REMINDS ME:

Do the exhaust "mod" now that you have that dirtbag stub exposed and replace the rear exhaust gasket and donut gasket too!!!! :devious

M8 x 1.25 mm stainless rod. Just buy one long one. I couldn't find it (have since near me), so I bought threaded bolts and sawed off the heads. Those work fine too.
Cut to size. I will get you close with some measurements (40mm, but don't quote me). Use two bolts butted up against each other to thread them into the exhaust, then snug your exhaust down with SS washers and an M8x1.25 brass nut.
 
#24 ·
Man I sure could have used the help for sure. I wish I would have seen that $400 engine. I would have naught that in a heartbeat. It took me a minute to get the exhaust off but supriziingly it came right off offer I took the front header bolts out. It's not more than I expected. I'm fortunate in that the engine was kept clean and in the south (no rust). Nothing was froze up or stripped. It all came apart nicely. I'm gonna get back on it tomorrow. It's great having a nice well stocked shop to work in but it's a good ride from my house. I'm gonna pack it all up in a plastic tub tomorrow to keep everything dust free untill all my parts arrive. First part came today, new starter relay. Gonna order some some new gaskets today.

Thanks everybody for the support and words of encouragement. Means a lot.
 
#25 ·
Same thing. Newer R motor. All four bolts came out fairly easily. PB Blaster helped. I am not reusing those things.

I will build you my GPI proto since I bought two of each part. Provided I dont mess up soldering and need to cannibalize a part, I'll ride it down once I'm back up running!
 
#27 ·
Yeap, it was in the mail box. It looks and feels heavy and well made. I won't know till I put the bike back together how well it works but I'll let ya know. It came all the way from china and it was $9.88 US delivered. Can't beat that! What does an OEM relay from Suzuki cost? I don't know how other countries dealerships are but hear they treat you like their doing you a favor by opening their doors. They act like their the motorcycle Gods. They absolutely rape you if you need parts and lets not even talk about service work. I have a $2000 receipt for a clutch and valve adjustment. 20 hours of labor at like $25 an hour. Twenty hours, REALLY! I removed the engine and tore it down in about 12 hours and I've never done it, not a tl anyway. Twenty hours for a clutch and valve adjustment, wow! They need to send there techs over to the Miller residence and I'll show em how to get er done!
 
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