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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is up with the [email protected]#$ing Fuel pump assemblies

8000 miles into my brand new 1998 TLR and it needed replacing

I replaced 3 of them in 20,000 miles on the Blue Weasel.

I replaced one at 8,000 miles on the current AOD TLR

Made it to 21,000 and now same ol' symptoms and diagnosis. Looks like it needs one again.:banghead

I am so sick of doing this job......It's not like it's a cheep part either.

I have a pile of four non- working ripped apart assemblies......think I can make one good one from the four so I don't have to drop $150 again.....for a used one!!! :banghead :banghead

Sorry for the rant......anyone have anything in their Christmas sack for me?:devious
 

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Someone on here replaced the pump with a cheap one from a hardware etc store ... cost him peanuts to do it. He posted pics & stuff too ... have a search for it, maybe you'll have 4 spares :laugh or at least 3 to practise on ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I have heard of the "Dodge Caravan" slight plumbing replacement job......I also hear the output (Fuel rail pressure) from them is a little off compared to stock.......And being that these are finnicky FI machines I never went that route.......Can anyone share some real experiences with this "Caravan" Job.
 

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I gutted a pump from a 03 600 cost me $20 now she's good as new. the pump itself is the same part #. its just the pickup and the rest of the crap thats different give it a try. good luck
 

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I belive that the fuel pressure reg is seperate from the fuel pump - thus provided the caravan pump makes enough pressure/flow to keep up (which I think it does), the fuel pressure/flow the injectors see will be no different at all from an oem pump.

All that said, your problems aren't exactly typical - I would look around a bit to see if perhaps something is killing your pumps - a lousy connection or corroded wire could cause a voltage drop (don't forget to check the ground side - its just as necessary) which can wear a pump out in short order. Also I suppose if there were some major issues with the reg or return it might kill the pump, but I would think you'd have running issues then too:O
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I actually looked at a lot of those issues on the Blue TL with Pump assembly #3.....but this issue has re-occured with 3 separate TLRs......the only piece that has seen all 3 bikes is the cowl.....I like the idea of taking GSX-r pumps and putting into our assembly. I know the TBs have a fuel pressure regulator valve controlling flow (I've had it go bad...dumping fuel into the intake fowling after seconds....in TL Zone history) but I thought the Fuel pumps also had check valve controling pressure to the TBs. Sounds like I may be able to salvage 4 bunk assemblies
 

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What exactly goes wrong? Perhaps the filters clog and then pump overheats? If it all works OK when it works, the things I can see in common might include the fuel itself or possibly condensation that causes tank rust?
 

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:stupid... i would take a sample of your most regularly used fuel to someone and have it checked out might cost $50 but at least you could eliminate fuel from the list of possibilities...
 

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The caravan pump works fine. I ran one for over a year, then I made a GSXR pump work.

The only downside to the caravan pump is the added noise it makes over the stock pump. Everything else works just the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Each of the 3 TLRs saw fuel from a different state. the one now gets it from about 15 different gas stations regularly.....pretty sure it's not the fuel. Clogged FP Filter certainly could have been a problem but every time I pulled the assembly the filter looked great.

What exactly goes wrong?........the bike will have a harder time starting cold and 1/2 cold (55 F.--120F water temp) because it doesn't have enough fuel to fire. With a good battery it will start at the end of a very long sequence of turning over....but most of the time you end up having to jump it to turn it over enough to fire. (All that nonsense aids in fowling of plugs quicker as well) On really bad days sometimes it would do a 40 sec turnover when the bike is at full temp too. Anytime I replaced the assembly....problem fixed and I was back to my normal 2 sec turnover at any temp.
 

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that hard starting sounds almost like the starter relay problem. make sure you have good clean contacts on the wires maybe even solder them to make sure of a good connection....... I had a similar problem fester for almost 4 months until that relay broke........and it played games with my pump. new relay and all is well
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Da starter relay go click when bad. I had that problem too 3 times.......symtoms were slightly different.....my pumps always primed durring my issues.....when the rely goes or is loose they won't prime.
 

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There are two fuel filters on the stock pump assembly. One is the screen assembly attached to the inlet, the other is the canister that is after the pump on the outlet side. Try replacing the second filter.

Mine got very hard to start, to the point it would not even start. I ordered a new filter, but in the mean time I got antsy and took my stock pump apart. Pretty much ruined it, it was fine after I took it apart, but that pushed me to do the caravan pump search.

Replace the filter first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks yeller.....that's good info!!
 
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