[kawasakis]

My 97 tls is awful at low rpm and am pulling my hair out cause i cant figure it out. the only thing i have found out of the ordinary is oil in the airbox poss from crankcase breather but it doesn't use alot of oil

Symptons // ticks over ok but when throttle is snapped open to wot it hiccups then revs,if i blip the throttle she will backfire on the front pot sometimes in the exhaust but mostly up into the airbox and makes the tank move (it's very Fierce)

If i try to pull of aggresivly 90% of the time it'll lock the back wheel and stall.
driving along anything under 3k rpm it'll pop,fart,lose power,surge,backfire and so on it is awful, it would be fair yo say its dangerous, anything over 3k its perfect with good throttle response

This is a list of what i have done so far to fix the problem and none have improved it

1 changed exhausts back to stock and sealed ant exhaust leaks.
2 changed ecm for a newer one cause i know some early ones had probs
3 set tps
4 changed plugs and cut 10mm off plug leads
5 removed tre as i suspected it was duff
6 sync'd tb's and cleaned with brake cleaner, also run injector cleaner in fuel
7 checked valve timing
8 changed air filter to k&n
9 modded charging system

Thats what i have done so far and none has made a substantial difference , also i will point out that its a austrian import and has the pair system fitted (clean air system)

please please please can someone help im at my wits end with it and if i dont sort it im gonna beat it to death with a hammer

Thanks in advance Steve(cat)

 

[BritGeetar]

I have just got the same problem
and i just got the parts to do the Mckeowen
fuel filter mod....$5 at advance auto parts
I would also just to be sure
replace the spark plug wires
as they are over 10 years old now mate...

 

[kawasakis]

Thanks brit can you send me come contact details or website for the mod and i'll give it a go

 

[BritGeetar]

I got it off chucks site here
http://www.chucksirois.com/

 

[CMonkee]

If it's backfiring when you blip the throttle then I'd suspect a vacuum leak. Otherwise the normal thing would be sync the throttle bodies. Remember do the TPS first, sync TB's, then TPS again.

Good luck,
C

 

[1crock]

:stupid You'd be amazed at how much better they run once you've synched the TBs.

 

[rufer]

This should read properly sync TBs. It needs patience, but will pay off.

Otherwise a vacuum leak or electrical problem (TPS defective as example) would be my guess. Most sensors (as example TPS) can be measured quite simple, just read the workshop manual.

Greetings
Rufer

 

[kawasakis]

'ive synced the tb's and it ticks over smoother but hasnt got rid of the problem.

also i've stripped the engine down today to sort the gearbox (3rd gear) and found that my front pair pipe coming off the head and the unit itself is full of oil, But the cylinder is not burning oil the plug,valves and piston crown are clean as a whistle !!! err im confused now any help would be nice

 

[rufer]

The PAIR system works as an airbox oil sink! If enough oil/crap is in there, it won't work correctly. Remove it and save 500g of weight. See frequent mods forum.

Greetings
Rufer

 

[rich o]

IAPS

I had a similar problem with mine and it turned out to be the Intake Air Pressure Sensor (IAPS) had a leak. Be careful replacing the lines to the IAPS because there is a restrictor in the line and there is also a vaccume accumulator (black plastic can) just like the one in the PAIR system. I can tell you that if the restictor or vaccume accumulator are not there the bike will run OK at higher revs but will idle like you described.
Good luck

 

[BikePilot]

Mine acted similarly, ended up replacing the coils and that fixed it. Predictably mine was worse when wet/humid out. The coils were visably fine and tested fine (resistance), but must have been leaking. I used SV1k coils which proved much more waterproof (very well bonded to the wires/caps) and are a bit lower resistance (=more current = more spark).