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Yup. Both of em plugged in.
Well then, here is an easy test for you.

Unplug the connector from the thermal switch on the lower radiator.
Key on.
Use a paper clip (or something) to bridge the contacts in the loom-side connector.
The fans should start.

If so, it indicates that the thermal switch is not closing when the 'switch temp' is reached.


If the fans do not start, there is a problem in the wiring somewhere.

While the switch is disconnected there should be ~12 volts on the Black/Red wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #162
Thanks I'll give that a shot once I get the battery reconnected. I've currently got magneto cover and battery box off.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
I was wrong about the Magneto gasket. New one is installed and still the leak persists. I originally thought it was a contaminated oil mixture, but turns out it's just residual DexCool from the system leaking out somewhere above the Stater cover. There's no visible trail, so it appears as though it's oil sludge leaking from the Stater.

I did get the tank and airbox back off, but damned if I can find the source of the leak. It's not any of the Coolant lines as they're bone dry. It almost looks like it's coming from the head itself. I know the engine valley was stained with DexCool when I cleaned it the first time around, but I thought nothing of it. Guess I'll have to tear it all back down again.




NOTE: I do have a theory. It might be coming from one of the metal Coolant tubes that bolts directly to the head. Possibly leaking out around the O'ring or something. That's what I'm hoping anyway, because if not then it's the head gasket. And given that thick white smoke was billowing from the exhaust during the short startup run I'm a bit nervous to say the least.


(pre-restoration image)
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Discussion Starter #164
Found the problem (sigh of relief).

IMG_1655.JPG
 

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Found the problem (sigh of relief).
Those coolant tubes have bitten me before. :banghead Now, even with new o-rings, I add a layer of RTV just to be sure. Tearing it apart again for an irritating leak is just not in my playbook anymore.

I don't have the time to do jobs twice like I used to. :) When I fix something on one, then one of its stable mates needs attention....:coocoo
 

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Discussion Starter #166
... I don't have the time to do jobs twice like I used to. <img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> ...
Amen brother. Same story with my Nissans. Fortunately I'm reaching a point where I can tear a TLR down to the frame in under two hours. Probably reassemble one in under four. I almost know every bolt by heart. It's the long wait for parts that makes everything such a PITA.

I'll throw on a layer of RTV as well, since you mentioned it. I also cut some new hoses. Should be good once new rings come in.

IMG_1660.JPG
 

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:laugh .................. see how much you've learnt in the last 5 years? .................... and I bet you were a right little sod at school!
 

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Discussion Starter #168
................... and I bet you were a right little sod at school!
How did you know <img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />




The original O'ring didn't seem too bad when I initially installed it, so I can only guess it tore during the required twisting required to get the Coolant tube in. The tubes were in pretty rough shape (like everything else on Bob). I polished them up, but a few metal burrs must have remained. Not enough left to them to smooth out any more.

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I think Tony was spot on with the RVT. I'll apply a light coat to smooth out the rough edges, let it dry, and then apply the O'ring when it comes in.
 

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How did you know <img src="https://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />




The original O'ring didn't seem too bad when I initially installed it, so I can only guess it tore during the required twisting required to get the Coolant tube in. The tubes were in pretty rough shape (like everything else on Bob). I polished them up, but a few metal burrs must have remained. Not enough left to them to smooth out any more.

View attachment 59318
View attachment 59320
View attachment 59322

I think Tony was spot on with the RVT. I'll apply a light coat to smooth out the rough edges, let it dry, and then apply the O'ring when it comes in.
Josh,

Use the Grey RTV...

My Jetta had a small coolant leak a few years ago. Hard coolant pipe to the head. New o-ring and a glob of grey and a day of curing... no drips since.
 

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Discussion Starter #170
Eliott, You prompted me to research this, and I agree with you that gray RTV is the way to go for this application. However, I have only the red high temp RTV at my disposal, so that will have to do. This time around I'll lube the part like a pervert and gently tap it in with a rubber mallet (opposed to twisting it in).



NOTE: Finaly got your name right [img= class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/bigthumb.gif[/img]
 

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:lol
 

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Discussion Starter #174
Well, got the O'rings for Coolant Adaptors in this morning. Got them installed, and everything back together. No more coolant leak. You know what this means....




Yup, means it's the f--king tank's turn to start leaking again [img= class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/hmm2.gif[/img]

GIF-pissing-in-the-wind-storm.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #175
False alarm on the tank. Must have been how it was sitting off the bike. Seems to be holding fuel just fine now that it's mounted. Of course, it's nearly empty now too, so that could be why it stopped (for the moment).


Sooo.... current status on Bob is this:

* Fires up strong on the first shot (headlight bulbs blown), but won't idle for shit (1000 RPMs). Stalls without throttle.

* Fast Idle working as designed (visually confirmed), but has no affect on RPMs

* Idle screw increases RPMs when cranked up (way further than it should be)

* Throttle response is good. No hesitation.

* Heavy white smoke from exhaust




I've accounted for all the usual stuff.

* Fuel pump squirting pretty good (visually)

* New fuel filter

* Air filter clean

* New plugs

* clean injectors

* TPS and TBs synced to spec

* All hoses visually inspected and good

* Wiring harness good

* Yadda Yadda Yadda

I've taken these bikes apart and put them back together enough times to do it with my eyes closed, so I know everything is how it should be, but it's just not idling right.

NOTE: I have no baseline on how it idled before working on it, so it may be running exactly as it was. I joked with the owner about it not running right with the piston damage once everything was cleaned and put back to spec, but it might not have been a joke after all.


My money is on fried rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #176
IMG_1672.JPG

Distilled water :)
 

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Discussion Starter #177
Thanks for Sharing that trick Tony. I jumped the temp sensor at the harness and both fans spun up, so that was a quick and simple way to test that.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
I miss Bob :bawling
 

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The tank is still leaking. It has 2 leaks one from the fuel pump flange one from the vent tube. I pressure tested the vent tube and confirmed it has a pinhole or two I've got a tank liner kit on the way and im going to line the tank and paint the vent tube with the tank liner epoxy hopefully closing the pinholes. Bobs running rough and high 3k idle revs seems to be caused by a vacuum leak. The airbox is missing a couple screws as well
 

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Discussion Starter #180
Every screw was accounted for, so the only thing that should be missing from the Air Box is the Air Filter screws (which were missing), and they're not critical. All hoses were triple checked. There should be no vacuum leaks.

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Regarding the tank, it might explain why the Overflow pipe was clogged at the port, though it's unlikely intentional since it was clogged with rust. As I mentioned I only had half a gallon to test it, so the holes must be further up the pipe. Either that or the vinegar unblocked the rust that was sealing it. Previous owner also had the pump flange caked with silicon, so that may be the only other way to seal it. Tank is obviously in worse shape than originally thought.

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