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Discussion Starter #142
A teeny tiny blob of jb weld?
Yeah that could work. Should also serve as a watertight replacement for the seal that goes over the bolt.
 

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Adrenaline Junky
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I really really do mean tiny, just enough to hold the bolt together without any chance of it getting in contact with the surrounding material. Also let the owner know that the only surefire solution is a full engine rebuild in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #144
... Also let the owner know that the only surefire solution is a full engine rebuild in the future.
It needs a full engine rebuild anyway. Those pistons don't have much life left on them.

The bolt is no good. It wouldn't thread in far enough to seat, which is why it snapped. The original bolt snapped during removal (as it always does). Bored it out and retapped it. While torquing down the eBay bolt (not OEM) that came with the used impeller the shaft began to split. Now the new OEM bolt didn't thread all the way and snapped.


Only three options are

A. Rebuild engine (pistons, shaft, trumpets, etc.)

B. Attempt to rebore and retap while impeller is in place (to prevent shaft from splitting)

C. See how long the impeller lasts without the retaining bolt.


NOTE: I'll drop the pack and reinstall it, but I won't rebuild it. Too much risk trying to rebuild something I can't cover financially. Know what I mean.
 

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Man after reading this Im really scared to try and remove my impeller bolt! Are the threads reversed or standard direction? Any tips on loosening the bolt, penetrating fluid and or heat?
 

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Discussion Starter #146
... Any tips on loosening the bolt, penetrating fluid and or heat?
Both!

If, God forbid, you do end up retapping the shaft, make sure the impeller is on. This will prevent the shaft from splitting. Why in the F--k Suzuki glued to pieces of metal together rather than making the shaft one solid piece is beyond me. But if I've learned anything from ripping these bikes apart it is that Suzuki Engineers are f--king idiots.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Will do, thanks for the advice. Oh, and standard counter clockwise to loosen the bolt?
Yes... lefty loosely.

Also, be extremely careful removing the impeller. It's very tight, very brittle, and prone to cracking in half. You'll need to get some small precision screwdrivers to work it off the shaft. Even then it's still 50/50. My advice, just order a new impeller while your at it. I'll supply you with some images when you're ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
New day.... new problem :)


Owner came over and drilled the old bolt out of the impeller shaft and retapped it (with impeller on this time). Did a good job of it too. Definitely better than me at it. Then again, y'all already know that anyone is better at removing snapped bolts than me.
IMG_1614.JPG


Any who... Just got everything back together, poured the fluids in, and now it's leaking on the other side.
IMG_1618.JPG

IMG_1621.JPG

All bolts are torqued down, so that's not the problem. I do see some corrosion along the mating surface, so my guess is that this has leaked before. Only goes for about 10 minutes after filling, then stops.
IMG_1627.JPG

What's interesting here is that Clyde had a similar leak (not as bad though) after I topped him off with coolant, but far as I recall it went away after running for a while. This sound familiar to anyone else?
 

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Discussion Starter #151
So....... is it leaking from the hoses in the "V," or maybe the thermostat housing?

Or is it spilled water from when you were filling the system?
No, definitely a blown gasket. It may have been blown since day one, but because it was full of DexCool sludge it temporarily concealed It. Either that or it dripped into the belly pan, which was filthy.

Definitely needs a new gasket. Can this Clutch cover Be removed without draining the oil? I don't think I can recycle it a third time.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
** Posted for owner **

Figured out how the small bit of Fuel I left in the tank managed to leak out around the cap while it was upside down. There's a small hole rusted through at the top of the tank. Otherwise the small amount of fuel I left in there (to prevent flash rust) would not have been able to get above that lip and leak out. So that explains that.


IMG_1640.JPG

IMG_1639.JPG


In other news, I'm just about ready to test out Tony's tank seal hack. If it works (and I believe it will), just have to slap on the new magneto gasket and Bob is good to go. Well... good enough to ride without killing him anyway.
IMG_1638.JPG
 

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....

In other news, I'm just about ready to test out Tony's tank seal hack. If it works (and I believe it will), just have to slap on the new magneto gasket and Bob is good to go. Well... good enough to ride without killing him anyway.
View attachment 59260
Is it just my computer screen, or is there something strange about that fuel pump opening in the tank? I can't see the inner flange on the tank where the gasket seals against. There should be about a quarter inch of sheet metal showing inside the bolt flange, but I can't see it in this image. :O
 

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Discussion Starter #155
...
I can't see the inner flange on the tank ...
Rubber gasket. Hadn't cut the middle out yet.

IMG_1637.JPG

All back together now, but I'm so broke I can't afford a gallon of gas to test it out 😞
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Seal hack didn't work. Another gallon of gas on the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LkClEMCLOcs




**Spoke too soon**

I let it idle and it hit 230 degrees F. The fans never kicked on. I felt no fluid moving through the hoses. After shutting it off I heard a loud hissing under the tank (no fluid just hissing).

At this point I'm really kicking myself in the ass for not running the bike before working on it. I have no baseline.
 

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Discussion Starter #160
Is the fan switch plugged in? <img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
Yup. Both of em plugged in.
 
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