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Discussion Starter #81
Turns out there's plenty of threads on this issue, so guess I was complaining for the sake of complaining. I guess air lock is a common issue with the rear Master. PITA, but it is what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Okay, I figured out the sequence. To prevent the Master from getting air locked it needs to be bled prior to assembly.


Pour some brake fluid into Banjo and reservoir holes
IMG_1359.JPG

Compress the plunger and hold
IMG_1360.JPG

Place thumb over Banjo hole and release plunger
View attachment 58870

Repeat process until you see the brake fluid flowing from Banjo bolt hole
View attachment 58872

Attach brake line
IMG_1363.JPG



**CORRECTION**

The above method worked for about 10 seconds, then failed, so disregard as a solution. Turns out that fluid IS flowing from the Master when attached to the frame- It's the line that's not getting fluid through it. Tried both lines again, new Banjo bolts, new washers, etc..

For now it looks like Bob just won't have rear brakes. Not getting paid enough to deal with them.
 

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The way I did it was to fill the caliper with brake fluid, very slightly push the pistons in then hook up the banjo to the master cylinder, then push the pistons fully in so that the fluid is forced up the line to the master.

Alternatively, if that wasn't successful then I used a vacuum bleeder.
 

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Have you tried pumping the hell out of it jackhammer style (with less force, obviously)? My old GSXR as well as my TLR both had rear brakes that did nothing and refused to bleed normally. Got angry and pumped the pedal furiously during the bleeding process. Worked on both bikes. No idea how or why.
 

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Josh,

As Tom suggested, use vacuum. Or the concept behind it of fluid dynamics. Gasses are (usually) lighter (less dense) than liquids....

Overfill the cup, raise the rear end ( bleed nipple above cup top line), put a vertical line off the bleed nipple, open it...

The air will be forced above
 

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I have NEVER tried this, but I was a Physics major in college for my first 2 terms, so I have to POSIT it will work.
 

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Have you considered the possibility the reservoir isn't feeding properly? If the hole in the bottom is blocked (which judging by the state of the bike originally sounds like a strong possibility) you can pump it all you like and nowt will happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Have you considered the possibility the reservoir isn't feeding properly? ...
I cleaned out both holes with a pick the best I could. If I remove the line at the Master and pump it I get a good amount of fluid shooting out, but for some reason it just won't filter down into the line. It's almost as though the hole in the line isn't aligning with the hole in the Banjo bolt. However this is not the case. Even if (somehow) the OE line were clogged, I get the same result using the new steel line and Banjo bolts. Plus, if the fluid were being blocked from leaving the Master I'd get a build up of pressure, which I'm not getting.

if I disconnect the line at the caliper I can feel air suction and pressure as I press and release the pedal.

In the end I think you're right. I can see no other alternative. Either not enough fluid is being let in through the tank or the seals on the plunger are too worn to provide adequate suction/pressure. The system itself is very simplistic, so only so much that can go wrong. I'll try cleaning the holes one more time. If that fails then the Master may need new seals.

I may also try drawing the fluid into the caliper using a syringe. I agree with Crash in regard to pre-filling the piston cavities with fluid. I believe I did this on Clyde. Unfortunately the pistons are already seated, so no way of getting them out now. At the moment I have the caliper elevated and the nipple open. Who knows... may work 🙂

I'm still struggling with sealing the tank to remove massive rust deposits, and then I've got the TBs to rebuild and the harness to rewire, so that gives me some time to let it sit.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Says access denied.
 

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here's the fix

so do it exactly as I describe it..

if it doesn't work then there is a problem with master cylinder seals and valves etc............but I doubt it.


1) remove the banjo and line from the master.

2) put your finger over the hole.

3) press the lever to the bars and hold it there

4) release your finger and replace it

5) release the lever and pressit again and hold

6) release finger and replace

7) do this until fluid pushes your finger out of the way and no bubbles come out

8) replace the banjo and line. don't worry about the fluid running everywhere just catch it with a rag. don't let the master reservoir run low on fluid.

9) remove line from caliper and clamp end between finger and thumb

10) squeeze lever and hold

11) release fingers and reclamp.

12) squeeze lever and hold

13) repeat until only fluid as before.

14) reconnect to caliper

15) remove caliper bleed nipple from caliper.

16) finger over hole / squeeze lever and hold / remove finger and replace / squueze lever etc till only fluid comes out or forces past finger.

17) replace nipple

18) remove line from other caliper and do the same as before

19) repace line and remove nipple

20) you should know what to do by now .

21 ) refit nipple and go back to first caliper and loosen nipple.

22) squueze lever and place finger over end . ( dame deal till only fluid comes out.)

23) tighten nipple and repeat on second caliper.

24) Deals done ...........if you aint got a lever by now you have serious probs with master cylinder.

BTW do not ever use cable ties over night or any other mythological fixes.

The one above is the definitive instruction list

good luck and let me know how you go..
 
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Discussion Starter #94
Worked perfectly! Thank you Stu

:ytiller
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Not even the horn was spared from the previous owner's stupidity <img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/headbang.gif" border="0" alt="" title="banghead" class="inlineimg" />

This one could be a challenge. Tight spot to solder in [img= class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/roll.gif[/img]


IMG_1378.JPG
 

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Not even the horn was spared from the previous owner's stupidity
Don't you love electrically retarded POs? The '99 GSXR750 I had previous to the TLR was that way. Wiring harness was mega mangled and halfass repaired whole ass incorrectly six ways to Sunday. Why can't people who are clueless about wiring just leave it the **** alone?
 

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Discussion Starter #97
The fun never ends [img= class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/crazy.gif[/img]


Even with all my "inhuman" strength I can't get the right Canister aligned. It needs to move forward about two inches, but there's no play. The brackets themselves look true, so down tube must be bent. I'm guessing the trouble spot is where the bend is, but not seeing any signs of warping. Guess I'll file it with the rest of this bike's great mysteries... like how it ever ran in the first place.

IMG_1388.JPG

IMG_1389.JPG

IMG_1395.JPG



NOTE: On the plus side, this did end up resolving the mystery behind the broken baffle on that shorty canister. The previous owner cut up the mounting Cushion (mostly gone) in order to mount the canister. Also left all mounting bolts on the down tube loose. So, without that damper cushion the canister eventually vibrated itself apart. So yes, those cheap pieces of rubber are important [img= class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/yes.gif[/img]

IMG_0698.JPG

IMG_1396.JPG
 

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does the mounting point under the footrest line up?

If it does and there are no signs on the pipework that it has been down the road and damaged you might want to start checking measurements each side of the rear sub frame in case it is bent or twisted.
I usually check from the swing arm pivot point as well as the sub frame mounting points. I also use a magnetic laser alignment tool usually used for chain alignment............one like this............

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Profi-Line-Laser-Motorcycle-Chain-Belt-Alignment-Tool/123126777180?epid=4017209730&hash=item1caaed855c:g:cbEAAOSwl89cACD4
 

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Discussion Starter #99
... you might want to start checking measurements each side of the rear sub frame in case it is bent or twisted.
Oh geeze... I hadn't even considered that. And now that I've eyeballed it I think you may be right on the money. Would explain why it was such a chore to get those four bolts tightened down. Thanks Ted.
IMG_1400.JPG


Truth be told, I may have reached the end of my patience with this project. Not because of all Bob's problems, but because the funding just isn't there to do the job right, and you guys know how much I hate half-assing shit.

For example, while jumping out of my ass cleaning the tank, screwing with exhaust, redoing the wiring, and researching the TB jet orientation, I failed to notice something obvious that caused more issues. Something I shouldn't have had to worry about in the first place.

Despite my constant advice to use OEM parts only, the owner purchased a used impeller from eBay. The impeller itself was fine (with some modification), but I failed to notice the bolt that came with it was the wrong size. The original bolt broke off, which required boring and tapping, and that's how it ended up threading halfway. Likely the seller's original broke as well (they always break), which is likely why the shit-bag included the wrong bolt in the order. I should have picked up on it, but I'd only seen the OEM bolt once for a few seconds before it snapped, plus my mind was on other issues as mentioned.


Long story short, after applying a little torque on the bolt... this was the result.
IMG_1397.JPG


I could probably still pinch it together enough the slide the impeller on, then cut the bolt down to make it just short enough to keep everything in place, but I'm tired of being forced to do shoddy work. One thing is guaranteed going forward, this is the last time I ever fix something for someone on a budget. Done it too many times and it's just not worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Just wanted to take a minute to float my own boat... My rewiring skills are reaching pimp status :D


IMG_1411.JPG
 
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