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Discussion Starter #61
From the owners manual ... compression damping. ...
Thanks Ted! I knew if I went searching in the service manual I'd probably just end up empty handed and frustrated. I never even considered that type of information would be in the owner's manual.

Probably shouldn't openly admit this, but I actually have an Owner's Manual. But I've never opened it. Truth be told, I purchased it as a collector's item :)

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If you're just doing the seals then all you'll need specialist tools wise is a seal driver. ...
Let me get some of that humble pie y'all got over there :uhoh
 

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Discussion Starter #62
In this Fork Seal video (9:40) the individual is pumping the Rebound Dampening Rod to purge air from the tube. After all air is removed the fork oil begins flowing from between the Rebound Dampening Rod and Rebound Valve. Is this supposed to happen for the TLR as well?

I've been manipulating the Rebound rod through its full cycle for the better part of 20 minutes and I'm not getting any air gurgling or oil flow. My oil level is at exactly 92 mm. Doug's recommended 97mm, then minus 5mm (because owner weighs under 160).

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GWQfMTcqIpw
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Remember that time when I was contemplating whether or not to swap out Clyde's fork seals myself in order to save a few bucks? Remember how I ultimately decided against it, and then ended up paying close to $300 to have my mechanic do it?

Well that choice is officially going onto my (short) stack of smart life decisions <img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />


PERSONAL NOTE: Looking back, I now feel like a complete A-hole for all the times I randomly showed up at his shop expecting him drop everything and knock out my seal "real quick."
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Got up at 5 am this morning to finish up the forks. After two and a half hours I finally got it! Works perfectly! All cleaned up and shiny!


And that's when I noticed it..





The Rebound Valve Rod sitting on the bench [img= class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/bawling.gif[/img]
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NOTE: It doesn't really need that valve, right :uhoh
 

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And you still didn't say if the forks were straight. :)
 

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Eh. At least they're easy to put back in. I'd almost rather do a fork rebuild than an engine rebuild.

Well... on this bike I would absolutely prefer a fork rebuild. No question. On the YZ it would depend on my mood.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
And you still didn't say if the forks were straight. <img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
Yes I did. In fact, I took your advice to determine if they were.

Were the forks straight?
Both Stanchion Tubes are perfectly straight. I placed a light source directly behind them, then ran a straight ruler down the length, using a set square to ensure accuracy, and it was perfectly flush along all four sides. Not a speck of light came through. I would have liked to remove the Stanchion entirely for additional accuracy, but I couldn't get the Allen bolt on the bottom to break free. And if there's one thing I've learned over the years it's not to fu-- with any bolts that have Suzuki Bond on them if I don't absolutely have to. That stuff is the Devil's concoction
 

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Discussion Starter #68
You know those scenes in classic horror movies where the actor is running down a hallway while it slowly begins expanding further and further from the door... that's this bike :drool

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But I shall be victorious :clap
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Owner purchased a new Chinese radiator (upper) for Bob. Although I haven't taken it out of the plastic yet, I must say I'm impressed with the quality. My previous assumption was that the fins would be paper-thin and easily bent, but these appear to be every bit as solid as the OEM offering. In fact, the mounting brackets actually look more solid than the OEM's at a glance. Definitely a pleasant surprise. [img= class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/bigthumb.gif[/img]

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NOTE: Does not include grommets and mounting hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
I've got Chinese rads on both the TLR and Ducati. Work fine, same as OE. J
Well... if the bracket alignment ends up being spot-on, it doesn't leak, and the cap doesn't blow off under pressure, then I may actually begin recommending an aftermarket part over the OEM offering (gasp...).


NOTE: I'm really tired, so I may deny ever saying this later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Throwing out some new images for giggles. Haven't really had anything interested going on with Bob lately. Mostly just a sh-- ton of cleaning and prep work.


This stuff is nasty man. Hours upon hours of scrubbing
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Believe it or not, this license plate *thing* actually turned out to be white underneath. I spent about two hours cleaning, sanding, and priming it, before realizing it's not one of those slick aftermarket metal tail inserts, it was just another ghetto hack job. Now it's in the trash.
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Figured Tony would appreciate the previous owner's ninja wiring skills. I'm guessing he had a surplus of Terminal Splice Connectors, because they're everywhere. Problem is, I can't figure out why the wires were cut in the first place. Plus, he cut them a few mm below the pins, so fixing this harness is going to be a real treat.
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Took over two hours, four scrubbing pads, a wire brush, and an entire can of Gunk degreaser to get this sub-frame clean. God damn OCD
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Discovered two long cracks on either side. Slightest bit of force could snap this fender in half. Got half a tube of JB on there. We'll no soon enough if holds. If not, then it's not long for this world.
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Discussion Starter #73
Bob's got the updated Oil Return Tank, and I noticed it's filled with a household scrub brush. Is that supposed to be in there? And by that I mean, is it factory? I was about use the same thing in the airbox, because owner's money is tight, but hard to believe Suzuki would use it as well. Can anyone confirm? Not worried about it, just curious.

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yes, the newer model does have that stuff in it whereas the older version does not.

There is a school of thought that would rather not have it in there as there MAY be a POSSIBILITY that a strand or two COULD be blow into the airbox and into the engine.
Other schools may consider that possibility very remote.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I have to admit, seems like an odd choice to me. Wish I'd known this a few months ago. I could have stuffed some into my 1st gen Oil Return Tank lol.


... MAY be a POSSIBILITY that a strand or two COULD blow ... into the engine. Other schools may consider that possibility very remote.
Yeah, I'd have to go with the 'next to impossible' school.

Even if a couple strands did somehow manage to unravel, break free, and make it up the curved hose, and get into the Air Box, it would never get passed the secondary catch filter.
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Even if the secondary filter were in its typical (coffee ground) state, it would still be too packed in there to get through.
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That being said though, I'm wondering if any of that loose coffee ground from a deteriorated filter gets sucked into the intake? I image there's enough vacuum for it. Wouldn't really hurt anything if it did, but if I substitut the soft OEM filter with this steel scrub pad, then it could plausibly get in there and beat the piss out of the piston head or scuff the wall. I guess it's a good thing Bob's piston heads are already beat to sh-- eh. Hahah...
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Bob back on his own two feet again :banana


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I hope the owner is at least going to take you out to dinner and a movie when you've done this............................................
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Man... I just can't get this rear brake to bleed! Honestly had to step away, because I was seriously close to kicking this bike right off the stand.

I cleaned the Master and caliper to a factory shine and reassembled both perfectly. Tore the Master apart three times thus far. Even tried two separate lines (one steel braided). Everything is the same as it is on Clyde. The fluid actually seems to flow and bleed with no problems, so long as it's not bolted to the frame. The moment I bolt it down I get nothing from the bleed Valve.

I had the same issue when I did Clyde's, but adding fluid directly to
The Master solved it. Not working with this one.

Is there some stupid little trick to this that I'm unaware of?
 

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do you mean with the master bolted to the frame and the caliper loose you get nothing, or with master and caliper bolted to the frame you get nothing?
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Sorry, seems I was so steamed I left out the most important piece of info. With the Master bolted to the frame I get nothing.
 
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