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Discussion Starter #42
Well... after two years, 300+ wrench hours, and easily over $10,000 in tools, parts, fluids, materials, tows, services, etc., my 2001 Nissan Frontier is now officially repaired and in good working order. I finally get to drive it! Ironically, thinking back to when I first saw it on Craigslist for $4,000, I remember thinking "wow, that thing is mint inside and out. What I deal!"

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The irony is that I had the exact same reaction when I saw Clyde on Craigslist, and we all know how that story turned out. Although in truth, the time, money, and effort spent on the truck's problems makes everything invested in Clyde feel like nothing. Ponder on that one for a moment :dowhat

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And so now two vehicles destined for the scrapyard have been resurrected. Time to resume focus towards the resurrection of Bob

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Ironically, thinking back to when I first saw it on Craigslist for $4,000, I remember thinking "wow, that thing is mint inside and out. What I deal!"
When did you last have your glasses prescription checked? :laugh

TBF I have done something similar with my old BMW 535i. Cost me £1800 about 5 years ago and there's always some tinkering to be done but it's worth all the time and effort. Can't beat the classics.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
... Can't beat the classics.
Amen.

Unfortunately there's only so much you can inspect with a seller standing over your shoulder. And most of the time they lie about it anyway. I can't stand dishonest people! When I sell anything, and I mean anything, I list every single flaw (if any) that I can think of. Even something as minor as the ashtray not staying closed over bumps. Believe it or not, this has always resulted in quick sales. Best of all, it eliminates most of the trolls too.

Come to think of it.. in all my years I have only ever had one person be upset about something I didn't mention, and it was just as much a shock to me. One of the forks on my old TLR was bent, which I was unaware of (I'm not Crash). I did apologize, but given that I sold it to him for $1,000 I didn't lose any sleep over it.

The guy ended up gaying it out with a 12'' extension and big foot tire anyway, so I think I got the short end of the stick on that one. Even still... since that incident I started including a 30 day refund (vehicles only) should the buyer discover anything mechanically unsound that wasn't disclosed at the time of sale. My conscience lets me sleep at night, and buyers get peace of mind 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Were the forks on Bob straight in the end?
Still haven't got around to pulling them apart. Up to this point it's all been mostly dissembly and cleaning. Lots and lots of cleaning. Then I spent a week tearing down the engine in the truck, so that set me back as well. [Which, BTW, isn't fixed after all. Loud rattle wasn't a manifold leak as I suspected. I'm now convinced it's the Crankshaft Reluctor Ring slipping / rubbing, and throwing my engine's timing out of wack] I hate this f---ing truck.

Any who... I should have an answer for you by Saturday. Assuming I can find a flat surface precise enough to gauge them. I haven't begun researching tricks and methods yet, so I'm certainly open to suggestions.
 

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You got a set-square lying about? Anything with a known straight edge and a right-angle should be enough to tell you if it's got legs like Charlie Chaplin.
 

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Discussion Starter #48

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Discussion Starter #49
And on today's episode of 'That Won't End Well', we'll change out some oil seals on a pair of inverted folks, with no experience and no special tools.

So stay tuned to see what we pull out of our ass <img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif" border="0" alt="" title="devious" class="inlineimg" />


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Discussion Starter #50
Y'all were right, no way of getting to the nut without compressing the spring, and the holes in the spacer aren't deep enough to get anything to bite on. So, special tool needed after all. Which really sucks, because it seems like the lack of several key tools have near stalled this entire project.

I'd say it's pissing me off, but there's really nothing to be pissed off about. Which is just pissing me off even more <img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Laugh" class="inlineimg" />
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Anyone recognize these as known modifications?

The coil wires almost look like they should, except for the fact they're spliced together with three different wires. At first I thought maybe someone just substituted a heavier gauge wire, but... well... you can see it for yourself.

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The other one (joined white connectors), I have no idea what's being done there. Could explain why the fan on that side isn't working though.

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Any thoughts....
 

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The joined white connectors in the last photo are a TRE, looks like a non - smart one. You could remove it and plug the two connectors back together (factory standard).

The coil wiring seems to serve no purpose, just adds a lot of connections with the chance of failing. Weird.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
The joined white connectors... are a TRE. ... The coil wiring seems to serve no purpose ...
Much appreciated Fruitbat :thumbup
 

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The joined white connectors in the last photo are a TRE, ....
+1

Looks exactly like the Smart TRE on my TLR. Actually, it looks better than mine....:laugh

Mine is a $20 ebay item, but it works.


As for the spliced coil wires, my guess is the extra wires are a patch for a failed "+ Mod" attempt. Probably didn't go as planned, so they just put it back to the 'OEM' configuration.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
... Looks exactly like the Smart TRE on my TLR. Actually, it looks better than mine...
You like the looks of his TRE eh... Well you're in luck, it will be up for grabs soon <img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif" border="0" alt="" title="devious" class="inlineimg" />

As for the coil wires, I have some spare harnesses laying around, so I'll get it squared away proper. I appreciate the confirmations on this.


Regarding a status update, I'm relieved to report that Bob is finally broken down as far as he needs to. Which hopefully means no more surprises [img= class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/uhoh.gif[/img]

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Owner came by the garage earlier and dropped off a makeshift spring compression tool for the forks. After a bit of modification to the bolts I think it will work out nicely.

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He also spent 4+ hours drilling the snapped retention bolt from the water pump's impeller shaft, and even managed to salvage a portion of the original threads. So that's a huge relief for me (broken bolts are my kryptonite).

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So with everything disassembled and prepped, now the fun can begin [img= class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/hmm2.gif[/img]

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NOTE: I'm taking images and detailed notes of everything I'm doing Elliote, so you'll hopefully have everything you need to assemble your TLR shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Were the forks straight?
No idea, I'm still figuring out how to get the forks apart. I've got the spacer compressed as far as it will go, but... where the hell is the nut!

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I don't think this makeshift compression tool is gonna cut it. I gave Doug's Fork Seal Guide another once over, and it seems like I have the spacer down far enough, but it's hard to tell for sure. Doug's guide, while amazing for the time, is in much need of an update. Specifically, some high res images. Unless it's my phone that's the problem. I'll try it again the PC when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
... Doug's guide, while amazing for the time, is in much need of an update. ...
So right off the bat I need to say that it was, in fact, my phone that was displaying Doug's Fork Guide incorrectly. Pulled it up on the PC and it was perfect. I noticed he even implemented a feature for checking off each step, which in my eyes is pretty bad a$$. So my thanks go out to Doug [img= class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/bigthumb.gif[/img]

I got the spring compressed enough to get at the nut. Turned out I had the bolts in too far, which prevented the cap from being pulled out all the way. Noob mistake for sure, but it's my first time, so I won't beat myself up over it (I'll let Crash do that).

One thing I do have to get off my chest is how God awful that old fork oil smelled. And I do mean foul! I very nearly tossed my cookies. Y'all could have warned me about this ahead of time. Is it even supposed to be dark green (sarcasm). Seriously though, I need to Google some fork cleaning tips before reassembling, because that crap needs to purged <img src="https://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/puke.gif" border="0" alt="" title="puke" class="inlineimg" />

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Also, is that little guy suppose to be in there :laugh
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Were the forks straight?
Both Stanchion Tubes are perfectly straight. I placed a light source directly behind them, then ran a straight ruler down the length, using a set square to ensure accuracy, and it was perfectly flush along all four sides. Not a speck of light came through. I would have liked to remove the Stanchion entirely for additional accuracy, but I couldn't get the Allen bolt on the bottom to break free. And if there's one thing I've learned over the years it's not to fu-- with any bolts that have Suzuki Bond on them if I don't absolutely have to. That stuff is the Devil's concoction

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Can anyone provide me with some insight into what this screw is for? I tried Googling it, but needle in a haystack without a name. Was going to hit up the service manual, but I'll save myself the frustration by simply asking. I actually thought it was a retaining bolt for the Allen bolt at the bottom, but it clicks, so I'm guessing it has to do with rebound or something?

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From the owners manual............................. compression damping.

Standard position is set by turning the screw all the way clockwise then back it off counter clockwise one and a quarter turns. Clockwise adjustment stiffens the damping, anti-clockwise softens the damping.

Rebound damping is the little screw in the top of the forks and the big nut on the top is the pre-load.
 
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