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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I am brand new here and have been working on bikes for about 5 years now. I have taken it into my own hands over the past 6 months to rebuild my dad's 97' TL1000S.

He however has neglected it by letting it sit for quite a long time. I have pretty much torn down the bike, cleaned various parts and started to put her back together.

Would anyone be willing to take their tank off and show me pictures of all the vacuum routing for the airbox.

I tried putting her back together and it didn't sound right, almost sounded like it was running on one cylinder and died under standard idle.

I took the airbox out and it runs perfectly fine at 1,200 rpm standard idle, and 3,000 on fast idle with choke on.

So its how the airbox is rigged up with the vacuum lines.

Any help would be appreciated, im trying to get this bike all restored for next month as a surprise for him when he comes home from overseas.

Also I had all the connectors connected and I still was getting the Red Light and FI sign on the LCD.


Previous work:

De-rusted the tank, installed a brand new fuel filter, fuel pump, had the injectors cleaned and flow tested to be matching.

bike was running very poorly on one cylinder when I got the bike. So now im making progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the fi code has to do with the connectors for the airbox being disconnected, or at least that what it was for my sv650 when i had one.

but the pictures of the plug ins and vacuum lines properly routed would help the most.
 

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here you go............

 
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Discussion Starter #5
OK guys bike is all together, fluids replaced and everything, now I have 2 problems:

1) Bike when cold is hard to start unless you use throttle with the choke off. Once the bike is warm it runs ok, but I do get smoke when I start the bike and any initial warm up period.

I went ahead and checked, and reset the TPS position using this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvK-5aQuhNs

I have not check the carb balance as I only have one vacuum gauge.

2) The exhaust is cold on one side, at the head its hot, and warms up fine. And yes the cylinder is firing. But the right side runs hot and the left side runs cold. I used a IR temp gauge to get numbers, and it seems pretty even till about mid-pipe, then its way different. But the exhaust gas on the right side is warm/hot and the gas on the left is cold.

I can't think of anything to do except a TB sync, I wonder if the ECU is bad?

Bike was running perfectly fine 3 years ago before storage.
 

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1) Hard starting can be due to a number of things. However, the basics come down to good spark plugs, a strong battery (with a good charging system), and good fuel pressure.

The fact that it likes to have the throttle opened when starting makes me wonder if the injectors might be a bit gummed up.

Are you sure the 'smoke' you are seeing during warm up, isn't just condensation burning off? Not sure what your climate is like, but this time of year (warm day, cool nights) is prime for moisture to collect in things as they cool off.


2) The uneven temps of the exhaust from one side to the other is typical for all TLs. They all do it. As for which side is warmer just depends on the design of the exhaust collector.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Impossible to be the injectors, I had them sent off and professionally cleaned, pressure and flow tested. So its not them.

The gas is more fuel/rich to me, but its fuel injected... so its not a sense of changing out the jets.

Its a vance and hines slip on exhaust with I believe to be the stock manifold, but the manifold is wrapped right by the cylinder heads

but is the exhaust gas completely noticeable on the temp difference??
 

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Impossible to be the injectors, I had them sent off and professionally cleaned, pressure and flow tested. So its not them.
Yep. Sorry I missed that in your first post. :banghead

So then, since you have the basics covered, it is time to move on to other possibilities.

Does this TL have:
  • The Charging Mod installed? This will improve the day-to-day health of the battery, and that means more power for cranking and starting.
  • The Plus (+) Mod installed? This provides more power to the coils for a stronger spark (better starting).
The wire loom is 18 years old now, and it wasn't great from the beginning. These mods help it perform as it should.


The gas is more fuel/rich to me, but its fuel injected... so its not a sense of changing out the jets.
Has the ECM ever been flashed (with a Yosh box or something similar) to adjust the fuel tables?

Does it have PC2 or PC3 installed?



Its a vance and hines slip on exhaust with I believe to be the stock manifold, but the manifold is wrapped right by the cylinder heads

but is the exhaust gas completely noticeable on the temp difference??

If the mufflers bolt-on to the headers/manifold, then it is the OEM manifold.
If the mufflers slip-on to the adjoining pipework, then it is some other system.

The difference in the exhaust gas temp will be noticeable at the mufflers because the gases are not evenly distributed. One side flows more than the other, and thus that side will be warmer.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
sorry getting back to you so late.

So here's what I was told:

the ECU was modified with a chip.. Unknown at this point as to what it was or since (I guess he bought it that way, not installed it himself)

As far as I know the wiring hasn't been touched.

I do not know if any mods to the wiring have been done

what is involved on the charging mod? and what is involved on the plus ( + ) mod? if its cheap enough, a bike could always use a hotter spark.

The mufflers are bolted on, so with your input it seems like its the stock OEM manifold.



So my plan for the next couple of weeks is to change out the spark plugs for new ones, just going with the wire iridium NGK plugs, hopefully burn up more of that unburnt fuel i smell.
I will count and adjust the air bleed screws per the video, should be 1 1/2 turns out

if its still buggery, then I will have to buy a balancer to balance the TBs


its just the starting and the rich fuel in the air when it starts up, but when it warms to operating temp it seems to be fine.
 

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session: I've got a 2001 TLR with similar problems. I've got the same V&H pipes too!
And I have noticed the same "rich smell" you're talking about.
I'm hoping a local mechanic can "flash" the ECU with a Yosh Box. I've already put new plugs in it. But just normal NGK's.
Right now, I'm just trying to make sure I do the airbox mod and TB sync the right way.
Looking forward to seeing how your project comes along...
 
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