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Ive started stripping my Tls down, im thinking of streetfightering it with a round chrome headlight, is there much difference if i junk the ram air? bike ghas got dropped gearing, a TRE, K+N filter and Blue flame cans.
I know the bike runs richer to compensate for the ram air in the higher gears, does the TRE make the bike fuel the same in the lower gears seeing as it makes the bike think is in higher gear all the time?
My thinking is the richer ram air map should balance out with the extra air from the K+N and the better flow through the pipes.
Think im going to get a power comander for it too, I take it I will be able to have it mapped to run without the ram air? seeing a dynos dont replicate wind speed it should be ok shouldnt it?
Cheers in advance :)
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Removing the tubes knocks about 7bhp off

You basically chop 2 feet off the induction length and the airbox is no longer "tuned" and doesn't work, the harmonics go to crap, no amount of mixture adjustment will get it back
 

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Not trying to hijack, but I'm on the same topic here. If you don't have the foam sealing stuff between the two points on the airbox, you're going to lose something too right?:O
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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And the TRE does nothing to the fueling. Ignition only
%th gear is 1/2 point richer than 1-4. 6th gear is another 1/2 point richer than 5th for a full point richer than 1-4 via some data logging done by ArtD, so the GPS does affect fueling.

i.e If you have 14:1 in 1-4, it's 13:1 in 6th. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the Tre does alter the fueling so Im led to belive as it makes the bike think its in 5th gear, apparently the Tl switches to a richer map in 4th gear plus to compensate for the extra air from the ram air, so in effect with a tre on you will be running richer in 1st 2nd and 3rd, or so I am led to believe.
7bhp I can live with
 

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i had the RAM air tubes off my gsxr 600 k7 last year, took her to creseant suzuki and they reckon i was loosing 30bhp from not having ramair system? dunno if this aplies to TL but i would have thought its all same system so works all the same?
 

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Not trying to hijack, but I'm on the same topic here. If you don't have the foam sealing stuff between the two points on the airbox, you're going to lose something too right?:O
Also, where the ram-air tubes feed into the base of the airbox............ if they're not located properly then ram-air will "leak" out of the gaps. I've extended the tubes by making inserts from the tubes into the openings in the a'box, seals perfectly and do not vibrate or move out.
 

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Also, where the ram-air tubes feed into the base of the airbox............ if they're not located properly then ram-air will "leak" out of the gaps. I've extended the tubes by making inserts from the tubes into the openings in the a'box, seals perfectly and do not vibrate or move out.
i'm going to do similar on my spare airbox when i do the airbox mod
the tl ram air does appear to be badly set up,
also looking through many of the threads on the airbox mod i was wondering if anyone else has fitted a diffuser in the airbox when they did the mod to try stop the air from both inlet tubes hitting each other, must cause some unwanted turbulance must that
 

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i was wondering if anyone else has fitted a diffuser in the airbox when they did the mod to try stop the air from both inlet tubes hitting each other, must cause some unwanted turbulance must that
Me :thumbup I put ramps in and one at the top of the tower to deflect away from the sudden stop by the hole leading up under the filter.

I Dyno'd my bike before and after the airbox mod, (it was the only thing I'd changed between runs) and the mods made no difference. :O
 

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did you notice any difference on the road?
 

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shall have to look into it,and getting a better seal on the tubes,and getting the rubber for the right hand front

how much of a difference does the airbox mod make???
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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Me :thumbup I put ramps in and one at the top of the tower to deflect away from the sudden stop by the hole leading up under the filter.

I Dyno'd my bike before and after the airbox mod, (it was the only thing I'd changed between runs) and the mods made no difference. :O
I found this in an old range hood but never tried fitting it:


I got a little rise in the top end when I ran a stock vs. modded airbox back to back, others got a similar increase too even before altering mapping.

did you notice any difference on the road?
I did, but only up high. I was able to puill redline in 5th on my test strip, something I could not do before the mod.
 

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Thats what I found steve, thought I'd give it a whirl. I used some old narrow plastic drainpipe and cut it in half, then half again and turned them back to back.
Hot glue to stick them in, after shaping them to fit in the bottom of the tunnel.
I had to use quite a bit of glue, in the bottom of the tunnel to get them to stick in the right place though.
 

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might still give it a try
ok it might be a pain in the rear doing it but if there's no negative effect that's ok by me
only thought about it after lookin at one of the old threads and someone mentioned the idea after doin the mod and realising that you have 2 airflows coming in and hitting each other
 

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To be fair though Gaz... even though its causing turbulance... there is only one way it can go once the converging air colides.... and thats up :O
 

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yeah but most intake systems now are designed to try and cut down on turbulance, that's one of the reasons they started goin through the headstock with the air

or so they claim
 

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there is harmonics involved.this means sound waves infecting(sik) induction.this is actually more important to our bikes than ram air.it is very complicated and i dont undrstand as much as i think i know about it
 
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