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Ready????


Spring on a stick.

nothing fancy. Just something it got called years ago and it stuck
 

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1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
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.....
Are you referring to this pivot?

View attachment 38741
Yes, that is the one.

If you can deal with Beemers, you'll have no problem wrenching on a TL. :thumbup

As for tools, there might be a few specialty items, but mostly the same as what you would need for any motorcycle.
 

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Update:
I found the squeak. The shaft going into the SOAS was squeaking. I used WD-40 to find it. Now I oil the shaft before rides to work some lube up in there.

Also:
For me, the Showa MAL-601 shock mod is dead. The spring perch collar is $100 to get made. The 1000lb (is what I would use for my 160lbs) is another $100. Drilling the 10mm pivot is more money by ruining a lot of drill bits. After all that, I have PERMANENTLY cut my frame.

The alternative to the MAL-601 mod is to get the blueprint of the plates (made thru mattyj in the UK 2yrs ago) to avoid cutting my frame tabs off. This mod involves mounting the MAL-601 upside down. Since he and others spent a lot of time designing it, they won't give it away. They are in the UK anyway. That kind of distance makes everything a bit slower for the US guys. I know it's the internet age but still.

I will continue to look for a used Bitubo (idk prices) or Ohlins (~$750 used). They get snapped snapped up fast.
 

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Take a look at hagon they offer a basic shock for the tlr they will also custom build you one
 

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I finally found a machine shop nearby that can make the aluminum sleeve for the upper spring perch. 80 US dollars!! That's the cost of a spring. That puts this project over $220. I'm considering a 900lb 6" spring instead of the 1100lb spring. Then I can use the Showa steel upper perch. If the original perch makes the spring area 1/4" tighter, that's 250lbs of preload. 1100-900 is 850. I rounded up to 900.
I'm looking at doing this mod - if I can find a Showa shock locally. I've e-mailed 6 wreckers and got zip.

My question is why do you have to make a new perch? from what this guy says, it seems a better idea would be a slightly shorter spring:0 If not, is what he's saying feasable? I'm over 220lb in riding gear, so would an 1100lb spring with the original perch work? Just trying to keep the build costs down.
 

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Egebhardt:
Don't confuse preload with rate. While holding everything up at the right height is important, it's really important how the available travel is used too!!! You can have springs of different rates but same preload holding the bike at the same height. But one may bottom and top out easily, whereas the other not move at all.
 

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I've just read this from page one again:

Again, the click-stop preload adjuster on the bottom of the Showa shock moves the spring .050" per step which is 50 lbs of spring preload.
The upper spring seat may not go high enough so you need a part machined to replace the original Showa seat with one that goes 1/4" higher. I've seen it made from steel, however, aluminum works too which would be less expensive and be lighter.
If it is refering to a ring that is 1/4" fatter (I haven't seen the unit and replacemnet spring, but from the wording this sounds unlikely), then this would add only 25lb, not 250lb of preload. If higher means 1/4" thinner, then you'd just wind the preload 1 click after you installed it.

That's too obvious - it must be the former!!

That takes me in a circle:laugh - why cant you use a 6" spring, original ring, and live with 25lb of preload:O

Can someone who knows what they're doing chime in FFS.
 

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I'm looking at doing this mod - if I can find a Showa shock locally. I've e-mailed 6 wreckers and got zip.
Ebay has one for $70 right now, but that's in the US.

Egebhardt:
Don't confuse preload with rate. While holding everything up at the right height is important, it's really important how the available travel is used too!!! You can have springs of different rates but same preload holding the bike at the same height. But one may bottom and top out easily, whereas the other not move at all.
I'm not confusing preload with rate. I'm just ignoring rate in this scenario because I've read others have done so as well.
I'm see your point. We all want ideal preload and spring rate.

I've just read this from page one again:
If it is refering to a ring that is 1/4" fatter (I haven't seen the unit and replacemnet spring, but from the wording this sounds unlikely), then this would add only 25lb, not 250lb of preload. If higher means 1/4" thinner, then you'd just wind the preload 1 click after you installed it.
That's too obvious - it must be the former!!
That takes me in a circle:laugh - why cant you use a 6" spring, original ring, and live with 25lb of preload:O
1/4" is the amount the new aluminum perch allows the new spring to expand to. 1/4 inch is .250". That's a lot more than 25lb of preload.
 

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:thumbup - I was reading 0.05 as 0.5:laugh No more beersies for me....

Thanks for the tip on the shock - but once you factor in xchange rate and shipping it gets a bit pricey. I'll have to hang on and see what I can find here...
 

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Kawasaki er6/650 ninja is the right length for the tlr and as there's plenty of them on ebay it would be a good starting point. To have serviced

just picked up one of these for £230


http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/400690628041?nav=SEARCH
 

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a few bits of info for those doing this, the reason for the 6" spring and not 5 1/2 or shorter is a question of travel of the spring where it can hold its rate constant. Basically a 6" spring can just barely go 2" and stay linear in rate after that the rate goes for a crap. If you look at the direct acting shock setup roughly its a 3 to 1 ratio of shock travel vs wheel travel. so 2" at the shock gives 6" approx at the wheel before coil bind and or the rate going goofy. A 1000 lb spring means it takes 1000 lbs of force to compress it 1" so if you compress it 1/4" its 250 lbs of force. This is also why the spring collar is machined the way it is so it slips down over the body retaining wire which is just above the connection for the remote reservoir hose this allows the 6" spring to be compressed close to a good starting point for ride height as the Showa setup has limited preload adjustment in the multi position adjuster. Aluminum is just fine for the collar, steel is not required.
 

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Also some other general thoughts on tl suspension. The wheelbase is extremely short with a very steep steering head angle and very little trail. This can be a recipe for disaster, stock a tl has a tendency to run wide in the corners and more than 1 tl has been crashed by an unsuspecting new owner not used to the deceptive speed of a twin tipping into a corner and finding they are way too fast for the radius and winding up running wide and crashing. That said it does respond to changes raising the rear ride height fixes the turn in problem but causes trail problems in the front do to non adjustable triple clamps. A longer wheelbase is a good thing about an inch is close, adjustable triples solve the lack of trail problem but are expensive and hard to get. This will give you some idea why it is important to get the ride height in the back somewhere close to where you started when modifying the rear shock so you have some clue on what to do for various handling setups.
 

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As a student (+$50 000 drop in yearly income:(), I'm doing this build as economically (cheap:D) as possible. I was going to leave the suspension until after the bike was back on the road, but I HATE the rotary setup. Would there be any issues with taking the spring off the shock, getting the damper revalved, and using it like an Ohlins on an S, keeping the SOAS and saving a coupla hundy - at least until I can sort the spring and perch out?? Or is there not enough room? I have seen an S with this setup using an R1 damper - and he reckons the handling has been transformed is way better than the rotary unit - even using the stock SOAS.

I know an extra $200 sounds SFA in the big picture, but that represents a lot of fuel for riding - which is still my priority. Every $ I can shave off gets the bike on the road that much quicker!
 

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TLR 'fighter. Cheers, I just read a bit of that thread - I'd say the Yamaha shock would need a new spring and revalve to get the best out of it too, thought the extra height might be nice. I've found someone who will do the engineering for beer:), I'll keep searching and see what turns up. I won't need it for at least a couple of months...

Just read that whole thread - think I'll hang on until a CBR shock comes along - the beer required for all that'd have me mate too pissed to do the job:laugh Got 4 wreckers on the lookout for me...fingers crossed.
 

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Found MAL601 -'95/'96 shock, $150+courier. Once I get a look at it this thread will (hopefully) make a lot more sense:laugh

I just re-read thhe first 2 pages and it now makes perfect sense:coocoo. I hadn't read the whole thing befor:doh
 

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This is what the wreckers offered me when I asked for a '95/6 CBR600F3 MAL 601 Showa, but it looks different to all the pics in this thread. Can anyone tell me if this is a good option for the modifications described - it looks pretty primitive to me for $150??? - keeping in mind that in NZ parts seem to be 2 to 3 times the price of parts anywhere else in the world:O.

DSC00394.JPG DSC00395.JPG DSC00396.JPG
 

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Found what I want - a '00 Showa.
 

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